how to adjust handbrake

[bergenser]

i need a better handbrake. i have to pull it all the way up when parking in slopes. how do i adjust it? 2005 corolla station 1,4 d4d

[hardtopte72]

On cars with rear drum brakes you adjust the E-Brake by turning the adjuster inside the drum. Unlike disc brakes which are preloaded and not adjustable the position of the shoes in the drum is fixed by the adjuster. So when the shoe wears out from use it is farther away from the drum face. So periodically(every 10-15k miles) you have to clean, lube and adjust the rear drums. If you dont want to do the whole job just pop off the grommet in the rear of the drum (or front of the drum depending on drum design) and turn the adjuster in each wheel. Remember not to turn the adjuster so much that the drum locks(if you do it is going to be a pain to get off). I start with 2 clicks at a time while turning the drum with the wheel on (if the adjuster is accessed from the rear of the backing plate) until it makes 1-1.25 turns before it stops. If the adjuster is accessed from the front of the drum then with the wheel off i turn the adjuster then spin the drum until it moves .5-.75 turns before it stops.

Hope this helps

[shoujiliuzhijun]

http://www.9thgencorolla.com/forum/f...play.php?f=135
There's a particular topic on how to adjust rear drum brake. You may need to register first to see that section.

[hardtopte72]

That DIY is a good way to simply adjust the handbrake. But a couple of things are missing and implied in that DIY.

1. If you don't lube the backing plates without a doubt in a few days or weeks you will get a squeal or popping noise from the rear brakes especially if you cleaned the existing lube off of them.

2. I have a M/T corolla and use my parking brake every single day and these brakes while the self-adjusting type barely adjust. And the brake pedal gets progressively lower and the e-brake handle higher as you drive.

3. Adjusting 9th Gen drums from the front is not the proper way to do it. If it was Toyota would have installed the grommet in the front like on Gen 3-5 Camrys. It implies you will know when to stop adjusting. You could put it on too tight put the drum on and not be able to get it off without removing the entire rear brake assembly because the drum is dragging.

Follow the DIY on the bottom to do the drums properly and cover all your bases.

You will need
Brake Parts Cleaner(1-2 Cans)
Sand Paper
Tooth Brush
Bucket to catch brake dust and brake cleaner
Multipurpose Grease
Brake Spoon (normally 3-5 bucks at Autozone)
Long Skinny Flathead screwdriver
Gloves
Rags

Step 1. Jack up rear of the car and secure it on jackstands and remove both rear wheels.

Step 2. Remove Drum. You can do this by either using a hammer and hitting the face of the drum(not lugs) until it comes free or using 2 bolts(M8x 1.25) inside the threaded holes of the drum and evenly one a time screwing in the bolts until the drum comes free (make sure handbrake is down/off when removing drum).

Step 3. Apply your brake cleaner liberally to the inside of the drum. While you do this use your toothbrush to brush the wheel cylinder, shoes, backing plates, and anywhere you can reach with the toothbrush. Spray more brake cleaner until everything is pretty clean.

Step 4. After making sure the brake clean is dry, using your sandpaper (not sure of the grit but nothing too fine) sand the facings of the shoes until the glazing is removed and you see a generally even layer of yellow dust. Once both shoes look even spray brake cleaner liberally to remove all the dust.

Step 5. Lube the backing plates. This is the hardest part as you dont want to get any lube on the facings of the shoes. Basically what i do is a small paint brush or the cardboard of a cereal or oil filter box and spread grease on it. Using your brake spoon pry the shoe away from the backing plate without damaging the facing(if you do just sand a little again after lubing). You will need to pry at the top middle and bottom of the shoe. You will see 3 distinct areas at the top middle and bottom where the pad contacts the backing plate(usually you will see the rust spots from metal to metal contact. Apply a thin layer of lube to these areas on both shoes on both drums, as well as the center circle where the drum and wheel mount. A total of 8 areas will be need lube.

Step 6. Adjust your parking brake. After you put your drum back on put your wheel on as well and tighten the lugs hand tight while the car is still in the air. You will then go under the car to the backside of the backing plates near the brake line. You should see a larger black rubber grommet or a square ovaled hole next to the brake line. From there you will stick in your flathead screwdriver and after finding the teeth on the adjuster turn the adjuster. IIRC you will need to click the screwdriver from up to down to turn the adjuster(just make sure you hear it clicking). Here is the key to proper adjustment. You will need to spin the wheel while turning the adjuster. The brakes are properly adjusted when the wheel makes around 1-1.25 revolutions before it stops. If it is any less the brake might start to drag.

Step 7. Lower your car and tighten the wheels the 76 lb/ft of torque.

Step 8. Go inside your car and pull your ebrake and admire how much lower it is. The ebrake should be in neighborhood for 3-5 clicks. Pull it up and down around 3 times to even the adjuster out.

Step 9. Go for a testdrive and check out your new found tightness in your brake pedal(depending on how out of adjustment they were).

You are now good for another 10-15k miles.