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9th Generation (2003-2008) Specific discussion of the 9th generation

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Old 11-02-2011, 10:42 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Rear Right Axle Problems

So I was driving home from school last night and I was cruising through the neighborhood and I noticed that my car was sort of thumping along. I knew this was a problem since the street was flat, so this morning I jacked it and I removed the Right Tire and I spun it and instead of gliding to a stop it was turning and slowing down as if it were grinding against something. now I looked all over the bottom and I think this is the problem the beam with the rod inside it is bent

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so any suggestions
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Old 11-02-2011, 11:24 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I doubt it's that. Pretty sure that's your rear stabilizer bar, and it's supposed to be that way (at least mine is).

Sounds more like bearings or brakes to me.
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Old 11-02-2011, 12:15 PM   #3 (permalink)
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That most definitely sounds like some brake hardware has failed or broken inside the drum. How many miles. Did you maybe leave the e-brake on. Could also be a severely failed hub and bearing assembly. You're going to have to take it apart and see.
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Old 11-02-2011, 01:31 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I have no idea how to take the axle apart :|
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Old 11-02-2011, 02:40 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Step by step.

You will need:
Jack
Jack stands
2 cans of non chlorinated brake parts cleaner.
21mm deep socket and 1/2 inch drive ratchet or factory tire wrench
3/8 drive ratchet
3 inch and 6 inch 3/8 drive extensions.
2 8mm x 1.25 bolts at least 2 inches in length
10-17 mm socket set. Mainly use 10, 12, 14mm on Toyotas.
Normal length not too thick flathead screwdriver.
Torque wrench (highly recommended but not required).

1. Park your car on a level surface and shut it off.
2. Place the transmission in park (auto) or gear (manual).
3. Remove the rear wheel covers (if equipped) by grabbing them and pulling straight back towards you.
4. Using your 1/2 in drive ratchet and socket or oem tire wrench loosen but do not remove the 5 lug nuts on each rear wheel.
5. Jack the rear of the car up and lower it down on jack stands. Jacking points can be found in your owners manual.
6. Finish removing the lug nuts and remove the rear wheel and set it to the side.
7. Now looking at where you removed the wheel you should see the brake drum.
8. Looking at the drum you will see 2 empty bolt holes on opposite sides of each other.
9. While making sure your ebrake is not engaged (down position). Thread the 2 bolts mentioned above in the holes band tight.
10. Get your 3/8 drive ratchet and no more than 2 turns at a time evenly tighten the bolts until the drum comes free.
11. Remove the bolts from the loose drum.
12. Inspect the inside and make sure nothing is hanging, broken, Rolling around, or otherwise out of place.
13. If anything is not how it should be repair the problem. If everything is ok liberally use your brake parts cleaner to remove all brake dust and allow it to dry.
14. Reinstall the brand drum on the hub.
15. Install the rear wheel with lug nuts hand tight using your wrench of ratchet.
16. Go behind the rear drum and you should see a rectangular hole or plug. Remove the plug and turn the brake adjuster 2-5 clicks and reinstall the plug.
17. If there was nothing broken in step 12 go on to step 18. If there was and it is fixed go on to step 21 .
18. Get under the car and grab the coil spring. While firmly holding on the coil spring spin the rear wheel and feel the spring. If it is smooth and you feel nothing the wheel bearing is good. If it feels harsh and you feel grinding the wheel bearing has failed.
19. Remove and replace the wheel bearing if it has failed. This is done by removing the drum first. Then go back to the rear of the drum under the car. If the car is equipped with abs then unplug the connector from the center of the big circle. If it does not simply remove the 4 12 or 14 mm bolts (can't remember) and go back to the front of the drum. Pull the bearing out from the front of the drum by pulling or hammering out on the hub. Reinstall the new wheel bearing in the reverse order. Tighten all the bolts and reinstall the drum.
20. Before lowering the car check your suspension and make sure nothing is loose or incorrectly installed.
21. Lower the car off of the jacketstands
22. Torque the lug nuts to 76 lb/ ft or good and tight.

Hopefully your problem is fixed.

Last edited by hardtopte72; 11-02-2011 at 02:42 PM.
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Old 11-02-2011, 10:16 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Definitely your brake or bearing issue. The anti-roll bar cannot be causing that.
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Old 11-03-2011, 06:43 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Your sway bar & axle look normal to me. I just checked mine and it looks just like your pic.
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Old 11-11-2011, 11:43 AM   #8 (permalink)
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So Finally I managed to open up the wheel, now what exactly am I looking for. s far as I can tell the brakes fine, but the wheel doesn't spin all that well. Any quick fix I can do?


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Old 11-11-2011, 12:52 PM   #9 (permalink)
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If the hub won't spin easily (the part the drum slides onto and the wheel bolts onto) and it is not rubbing against anything behind it then the bearing is bad. If this is the case all you can do is replace the bearing.

The good news is the bearing is a bearing/hub assembly in the rear and is held in with four bolts (and an electrical plug if you have ABS) from the backside of the backing plate. Not too difficult to replace and nothing that needs to be pressed in or out!
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Old 11-15-2011, 10:07 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Hey i actually have the same problem , i remember i took the wheel off once like 10,000 miles ago and rotated the hub by hand and heard some grinding, the mechanic told me it wasn't the brake but the hub bearing, haven't gotten around to fix it, how long can i drive with it before it finally failing and locking my wheel up? also can someone write down where i can buy the parts?
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Old 11-15-2011, 04:31 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I'd do it soon. If the bearing fails completely one of two things can happen. The wheel can come apart and the wheel can lock up. Either will cause loss of control when it happens.

I've seen people drive on bad bearings for months with no ill effects and I've seen others deteriorate quite quickly. There's just no telling.

I once had a Ford Tempo in for a safety inspection. I racked it and when I raised it up the right rear wheel fell off. The bearing was so wasted that once the weight of the vehicle was removed from it the whole assembly just fell apart!

As far as the part.. well any parts store can get it for you. The "Timkin" brand part number is 512218 without ABS, and 512217 with ABS. Looks like it's going to cost between $70 and $100 depending on which it is and where you get it.

The Toyota part numbers are 42410-01020 without ABS and 42450-01010 with ABS and appear to cost considerably more money.

***I found it in the BCA Brand (without ABS) on AMAZON for $38.44 with FREE SHIPPING

***I found it in the PRECISION Brand (with ABS) on AMAZON for $68.30 with FREE SHIPPING

Last edited by MasterTecInSTL; 11-15-2011 at 04:33 PM.
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Old 11-15-2011, 05:03 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterTecInSTL View Post
I'd do it soon. If the bearing fails completely one of two things can happen. The wheel can come apart and the wheel can lock up. Either will cause loss of control when it happens.

I've seen people drive on bad bearings for months with no ill effects and I've seen others deteriorate quite quickly. There's just no telling.

I once had a Ford Tempo in for a safety inspection. I racked it and when I raised it up the right rear wheel fell off. The bearing was so wasted that once the weight of the vehicle was removed from it the whole assembly just fell apart!

As far as the part.. well any parts store can get it for you. The "Timkin" brand part number is 512218 without ABS, and 512217 with ABS. Looks like it's going to cost between $70 and $100 depending on which it is and where you get it.

The Toyota part numbers are 42410-01020 without ABS and 42450-01010 with ABS and appear to cost considerably more money.

***I found it in the BCA Brand (without ABS) on AMAZON for $38.44 with FREE SHIPPING

***I found it in the PRECISION Brand (with ABS) on AMAZON for $68.30 with FREE SHIPPING

Dude, not cool, im like scared sh**less now, ugh i dont think i want to replace it myself ill probably go to my mechanic, like asap, ughhhhhhhhhhh
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Old 11-15-2011, 06:21 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Make sure it's not just rust buildup the brake drum's edge. If hub itself has no free-play and rotates smoothly, try turning it with the drum in its normal position. I've had to knock off all the rust buildup in the ridge and on the edge with a wedge hammer or chisel and hammer a couple times.

Last edited by invader; 11-15-2011 at 06:24 PM.
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