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It probably wouldn't hurt to flush the power steering fluid. I saw someone posted on here how to do it. Alternatively you could suck the old fluid out of the reservoir and replace it with new. Start the car up and turn the wheels back and forth several times. Repeat this 3-4 times and it should be "good enough".
Probably wouldn't hurt to flush the brake fluid too (do NOT get oil in the brake reservoir). Suck it all out and fill it up with DOT3 or DOT4 brake fluid (NOT DOT5). Now open each bleeder and let it drain into a drain pan until the fluid comes out clean. If you know how to bleed brakes you can have a helper operate the brake pedal to speed up the process. Make sure the brake fluid reservoir doesn't run dry.
You might want to consider replacing the spark plugs. They are technically good until 100k but if nothing else you should remove them, clean them up, put a tiny bit of anti-seize on the threads and reinstall them. Sometimes by 100k they can be extremely difficult to remove (although these Toyotas are better than most when it comes to that).
Consider replacing the PCV valve. This threads into the valve cover right behind the oil cap and is literally just a few bucks. If nothing else remove the old one and make sure it works properly.
Inspect, clean and adjust the rear brakes. Remove the wheels and the drums and clean it all up. Consider adding a tiny bit of lubrication behind the shoes where they rest against the backing plate. Reinstall the drums and the wheels and then access the adjuster from behind the backing plate (remove the rubber plug.) Adjust them until you hear them just starting to touch the drums and you feel just the slightest bit of friction as you spin the wheels. Reinstall the rubber plugs. No need to go any further than this.
Obviously inspect the front end. Make sure there is no play in the ball joints, tie rod ends, control arm bushings and stabilizer bar end links. Make sure there is no play or leakage in the struts and that the dust boots aren't torn or missing. It's probably about time to start considering replacing struts at this time. Mine are at 104,000 miles and are pretty much shot - with play (and clunking) in the LF.
Inspect the belt and hoses obviously. Inspect the tires for irregular wear and tread depth. Also look for knots, punctures and dry-rot. Make sure the tire pressures are good. DON'T FORGET THE SPARE!
Check all of the lights including corner lights and license plate lights.
Check the CV axles. Grab the shafts and make sure there is no up/down play (a bit of in/out play is normal). Also make sure the CV boots are intact and not leaking.
Clean the throttle body. Get some throttle body cleaner spray, a soft towel, and an old toothbrush. Remove the air hose from the engine and hold the throttle open while you spray it down with cleaner inside. Use the toothbrush to clean up all of the carbon buildup. Spray it down again and wipe it clean with the towel.
Also remove the Mass Air Flow sensor and spray its sensing wires clean. Do not touch these wires. There's also a small 'bulb' you can clean off which is the air temperature sensor (build in to the MAF assembly). I've successfully used throttle body cleaner spray in the past for MAF sensors but the correct stuff to use is specific Mass Air Flow sensor spray - or Electrical Contact Cleaner spray. Put it all back together and start it up in a well ventilated area. It will smoke.. a LOT.. for a few minutes. Drive it a few miles to clean it all out.
Spray some heavy lube on the door latches, trunk latch, hood latch, and all hinges. Use a silicon or lithium lube for this. Don't use WD40 as it will wash away any heavier lubrication and it doesn't last very long.
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The Camry
The Hardtop
Linear Mode
