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Old 11-26-2011, 12:20 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Rough idle on 2004?

Howdy All,

A while back our 2004 started having a slightly rough idle and I'm looking for troubleshooting suggestions as to remedy this.

The car runs just fine but when I first come to a stop I notice the idle gets fairly rough for about a full second or two, then recovers to a slightly rough idle.

Thoughts on what to check and or clean?

Idle Controller?
MAF?
Fuel additive in gas tank?

Thanks for any ideas.

CMOS
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Old 11-26-2011, 03:54 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Most likely it's an intake gasket leak.

Could be a dirty idle control motor though. Start with a good throttle body/idle control/MAF cleaning and go from there.
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Old 11-27-2011, 07:48 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks. If I remember correctly I have to use "Throttle Body Cleaner" for all of the below. Correct?


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Most likely it's an intake gasket leak.

Could be a dirty idle control motor though. Start with a good throttle body/idle control/MAF cleaning and go from there.
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Old 11-27-2011, 12:03 PM   #4 (permalink)
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If you haven't changed out the intake manifold gasket yet, there is a TSB about it - EG045-07, the new gasket part number is 17171–22060. It's an easy swap and the part usually runs about $5. Get the gasket, a can of QD Electronics Cleaner and a can of Throttle Body Cleaner. Clean the MAF sensor, the IACV and the throttle body, replace the manifold gasket and top it all off by cleaning or replacing the PCV valve. You can do all this in under 2 hours for less than $15.
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Old 11-27-2011, 12:16 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by infuzeyou View Post
If you haven't changed out the intake manifold gasket yet, there is a TSB about it - EG045-07, the new gasket part number is 17171–22060. It's an easy swap and the part usually runs about $5. Get the gasket, a can of QD Electronics Cleaner and a can of Throttle Body Cleaner. Clean the MAF sensor, the IACV and the throttle body, replace the manifold gasket and top it all off by cleaning or replacing the PCV valve. You can do all this in under 2 hours for less than $15.

Okay. I'll clean the sensors and TB today (short on time). If this doesn't remedy the idle I'll do the intake gasket next weekend.


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Old 11-27-2011, 01:45 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Technically you're supposed to use special Mass Air Flow cleaner spray or Electrical Contact cleaner spray for the MAF sensor but I've cleaned many with Intake Cleaner spray with no ill effects.
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Old 11-27-2011, 02:05 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Um, a little glitch: What type of driver tip do I need to remove the Idle Controller?

It's not a Torx or a Phillips. It's some type of 5-star tip - ???


I did clean the MAF, which did have a layer of dirt on the forward edge of the filament.

Also - if I replace the intake gasket, what parts will I need to remove to get the intake off?

Thanks,
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Old 11-27-2011, 02:46 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CMOS View Post
Um, a little glitch: What type of driver tip do I need to remove the Idle Controller?

It's not a Torx or a Phillips. It's some type of 5-star tip - ???


I did clean the MAF, which did have a layer of dirt on the forward edge of the filament.

Also - if I replace the intake gasket, what parts will I need to remove to get the intake off?

Thanks,
CMOS
Try a T 20 torx for the IACV.
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Old 11-27-2011, 02:49 PM   #9 (permalink)
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the 5 point is a special tool that I didn't even try to find, I just used my Gerber to grab the sides of the screws and twist them out. As for the gasket - I'm still waiting for mine to come in, so I couldn't tell you what needs to come off. I swear I have seen a DIY writeup on it somewhere. If you look up the TSB it should have step-by-step instructions. I live in Germany so everything takes longer to get to me.

Last edited by infuzeyou; 11-27-2011 at 02:51 PM.
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Old 11-27-2011, 03:40 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Try a T 20 torx for the IACV.

It's not a Torx. A Torx has 6 points. The screws have a 5-point star in the head.



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Old 11-27-2011, 10:58 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Sometimes a slightly smaller bit will fit "well enough" anyway. It's worth a shot. Otherwise you can slot it with a dremel and use a standard screwdriver on it.
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Old 12-09-2011, 01:37 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I've had that low idle issue for over a year. Delaer said a 700 rpm idle was ok. Well, it finally kicked off a CEL. Intake mani gasket was the cause. It is common as people have stated.
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Old 01-21-2012, 03:10 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Uh-oh

UPDATE: I replaced the intake gasket today as well as gave a good cleaning to the entire TB assembly including taking apart the Idle Air Controller (IAC), which was pretty darn dirty inside and had quite a bit of resistance in the rotation of the thingy inside that the magnet rotates to adjust the air flow.

Everything is back together but I now have a 1000 RPM idle.

When I first started the engine I threw a CEL and got a code of P0122. I drove around for a few minutes, then cleared the code. It has not yet reappeared.

Any thoughts on why I now have 1000 RPM idle?

Also, when I took apart the IAC and removed the black cover assembly where the connector plugs into, there is some type of what looks like a rotating keyed shaft in there. When I put the IAC back together, it *appeared* that this rotating shaft self-centered itself in the correct position of rotation by effect of the magnet in the cover assembly. Just a point of note that I'm not **positive** that this was correct. It's an assumption.

Thoughts?


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Old 01-21-2012, 05:02 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CMOS View Post
Um, a little glitch: What type of driver tip do I need to remove the Idle Controller? It's not a Torx or a Phillips. It's some type of 5-star tip - ???
I took my iac to the dealer and asked that same question, and he said it is a tool you cannot buy, and that removing those screws is not necessary to clean the iac. So I left mine as-is.
Quote:
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.. had quite a bit of resistance in the rotation of the thingy inside that the magnet rotates to adjust the air flow. Everything is back together but I now have a 1000 RPM idle. When I took apart the IAC and removed the black cover assembly where the connector plugs into, there is some type of what looks like a rotating keyed shaft in there. When I put the IAC back together, it *appeared* that this rotating shaft self-centered itself in the correct position of rotation by effect of the magnet in the cover assembly. Just a point of note that I'm not **positive** that this was correct. It's an assumption. CMOS
Did you remove those 5-point screws to get at this? Not sure what you are referring to. When cleaning my iac I've never moved or rotated anything.

The only time I've gotten a high idle like that is when I forgot to re-plug in the harness after cleaning it.
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Old 01-21-2012, 05:24 PM   #15 (permalink)
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The wife just went for about a 30 mile trip and the idle seems to have settled down right where it should be. Looks like the PCM was adjusting.

To answer your question - yes I did remove the funky 5-point screws. I used a Dremel tool to slot the screws so I could simply use a regular sized flat blade.

I'll see how it goes over the next few days but right now the idle seems to back to normal.


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