DIY Front Brake Job with PICS!!

[hardtopte72]

First off Disclaimer. This DIY is used for informational purposes only. I or Toyotanation am not responsible for any damage or injuries you may face when following this DIY.


Hello everyone I decided to do an in-depth DIY on this after seeing some missing a few key steps in the process.

DIY was done on a 2003 Pontiac Vibe but is EXACTLY the same a 2003-2008 1st Gen Matrix and 2003-2008 9th Gen Corolla (and a few others too).

Tools and Supplies needed
Air Compressor (not absolutely necessary)
Impact gun (not absolutely necessary)
Long 1/2 Inch Drive Ratchet (if not using impact and compressor)
1/2 Inch Drive Torque Wrench (needs to read to at least 100ft lbs)
3/8 Inch Drive Ratchet (or wrenches)
21mm impact socket (1/2 inch drive)
14mm socket
17mm socket (shallow)
Hammer (just in case rotor is stuck)
Thin flathead screwdriver
C-Clamp or caliper compressing tool
Wirebrush (tooth brush style)
Jack
Jack Stands
New Brake Pads
New Rotors
Slide grease (I use Sta-lube moly grease from Napa)
Anti-seize compound
Brake Parts Cleaner
Rags
Gloves
Drain pan

Some of the supplies pictured.


Let us begin

1. As always jack up the car and place it on jackstands (if you do not have an air compressor and impact gun, loosen all the lug nuts first before jacking up the car.



2. Remove the wheel by removing all 5 lug nuts.


3. Next remove the two 14mm bolts securing the caliper to the caliper bracket.


4. Hang the caliper on the strut (this is much better than letting it hang by its brake line and keeps it out of the way


5. Remove the two 17mm bolts that secure the caliper bracket to the backing plate. These are usually tight. I recommend a shallow socket here as a deep socket will barely fit if the wheel is straight. And remove the bracket and set it to the side.


6. Remove your rotor. From the factory these rotors do not have the bolt holes predrilled. IF you are replacing the rotor this would be a good time to use your hammer and beat the rotor off. If you are reusing it (get it machined) then there is a youtube video that shows a way to remove the rotor that is stuck using bolts or you can use a block of wood against the rotor and hit that with a hammer. Since I did the last brake job I lubed the hubs and mine came right off.


7. Now comes the annoying stuff. Using your wire brush clean all the rust/brake dust/crud from the caliper bracket hardware. The benefit of this simple step is huge.


8. Next remove the slides from the caliper bracket. Clean off the old crud with your rag and apply a thin layer (just enough to cover the metal surfaces here is good enough as too much will cause binding issues) of slide grease to the slides. While I am not sure if it matters which slide goes where I try to put them back exactly where I removed them from.


9. Now we will do the brake pads. Make sure you are working on a clean surface. You do not want any grease or crud on your new brake pads. VERY IMPORTANT!!!! REUSE THE FACTORY TOYOTA HARDWARE OR BUY NEW TOYOTA HARDWARE FOR YOUR PADS IF IT IS MISSING. THE AFTERMARKET CRAP IS GARBAGE!!! I like to clean the hardware off and apply a dab of antiseize to the pad backing the hold it on. Not too much here or it will glob out everywhere when you clip on the hardware. Make sure you install the hardware correctly it should be two pieces and clip on to itself like pictured


10. Next we apply a very light layer of anti-seize to the pad where it contacts the caliper] bracket hardware. Again very thin here. This lube will prevent so much noise and problems here.


11. Next apply a layer of anti-seize to the hub circle. This will make the next brake job and wheel removal so much easier.


12. Using your brake cleaner clean off all the brake parts not greased to include the new rotor and caliper as well as the backing plate. Install the new rotor on the hub and secure it with one lug nut all the way finger tight.

13. Install the caliper bracket on the backing plate. Make sure to move it carefully around the rotor as to not gouge it. Tighten the two 17mm bolts. Tighten them tight very tight but do not break them. These are bolt you do not want coming loose.


14. Next install the pads on the the caliper bracket. Again be careful not to get any of the grease on the rotor face. And be careful of the orientation of the pads (I do believe they can go on backwards)


15. Next using your c-clamp or caliper tool compress the caliper piston to the fully seated position in the caliper. This is done with an old pad and compressing the c-clamp against the pad and caliper itself. Personally i use a pair of channel locks and a rag on the piston and squeeze it. Some will say I am wrong but whatever. Open the master cylinder cap as well. This is why you do not fill brake fluid when pads are worn. This is with one side compressed only. When i Did the other side it was almost to the overflow point. When you add fluid with worn brakes and do this it will poor all over the floor. It will level out when the brakes are new.


16. Install the caliper on the caliper bracket. You will need to position the slides so the flat edges of the slide fit onto the flat edges of the caliper. Failure to do this will result in a non seated slide and it will crack and break upon tightening. And cause you to buy new slides or a caliper with bracket. Also be careful tightening these bolts down. Too tight and they can break. Just snug them down or torque them to spec (I don't know what it is)


17. Install the wheel. Remove the lug nut from the rotor and install the wheel and then snug the lug nuts down hand tight and lower the car.


18. Torque the wheel down to 76 lb. ft. of torque.


19. Be amazed at your work. Notice the 09 Matrix Caps on an 03 Vibe.


20. Now get inside the car and without starting pump the brakes several times to move fluid in the calipers. Start the car and do this one more time.

21. Break in the new pads. I do this by driving slowly up to 50MPH and then slowly braking to a complete stop. I mean very slowly. I do this 3-4 times total. After that go for a ride and verify there is no squealing, rattling, grinding, dragging or whatever.

You have just saved yourself a ton of money and given yourself piece of mind.

[MasterTecInSTL]

Not a bad job but my biggest issue is using the black "Moly" lube on the slide pins. While better than a petroleum grease this stuff still doesn't play well with rubber and plastic parts and can cause problems.

I don't think it's so much an issue on these Toyotas but I have seem some models that use rubber o-rings on the ends of this pins. What happens is the lube makes those orings swell up and then they get pinched between the pin and the bore and jam up the works. This results in accelerated pad wear, noise, vibration and heat.

Because of this I only use the black lube as metal-to-metal lubrication only. Anything that involves rubber or plastic gets dielectric grease or a silicone based brake lube.

I also recommend that bungee cords be used to hold the caliper to the strut during the process to prevent it from accidentally falling. I've seen many techs damage brake hoses by doing exactly what is described here and then accidentally knocking the caliper out of place causing it to fall off.

Also I feel you overdid it just a bit with the anti-sieze on the hub. Sometimes pockets of that stuff can get trapped between the rotor and the hub and keep it from sitting perfectly flat. This can eventually cause vibration issues. It's also bad practice to put any kind of lubricant on the threads of the studs as this will allow for the lugs to tighten more than they are supposed to (Even with a torque wrench) which can lead to stripped threads, broken studs, and again vibration issues.

Lastly I have problems with you showing the "Duralast" brand box but this is just because of my dislike for "Autozone" in general. At least you have Toyota pads!

All in all however it's a good write-up. Doing brakes is not difficult and is a great way to save yourself tons of cash! Good job!

[hardtopte72]

Originally Posted by MasterTecInSTL

Not a bad job but my biggest issue is using the black "Moly" lube on the slide pins. While better than a petroleum grease this stuff still doesn't play well with rubber and plastic parts and can cause problems.

Give me a break

I don't think it's so much an issue on these Toyotas but I have seem some models that use rubber o-rings on the ends of this pins. What happens is the lube makes those orings swell up and then they get pinched between the pin and the bore and jam up the works. This results in accelerated pad wear, noise, vibration and heat.


Because of this I only use the black lube as metal-to-metal lubrication only. Anything that involves rubber or plastic gets dielectric grease or a silicone based brake lube.

I used to only use dielectric or silicone based grease on the slides. Until I was told when I first hit dealer by 2 Toyota MDT's and one master tech that the moly lube is better for slides. While it may hold true that some of these things can cause issues I can say COMPLETELY HONESTLY that I have not had a single comeback for a brake job in at least 5 years. Not only that but I have done my own brakes and family's brakes on Toyotas that have the o-ring on the slide and no swelling from using the lube. I have however seen the o-rings swell on their own from the factory and be hard to install even when using silicone. I used to moly lube in my Corolla 3 years ago and when I recently took my brakes apart to check everything out the slides still slid perfectly and the lube was still "wet" and I have 102K on the Original green Toyota pads.

I also recommend that bungee cords be used to hold the caliper to the strut during the process to prevent it from accidentally falling. I've seen many techs damage brake hoses by doing exactly what is described here and then accidentally knocking the caliper out of place causing it to fall off.

This is something I probably should do but don't because I don't have any bungee cords anymore. I see most people do it but I just remain hyper aware of the caliper. Also when hammering the rotor I always secure it with my hand to prevent it from falling. Eventually I will adopt this method for good.

Also I feel you overdid it just a bit with the anti-sieze on the hub. Sometimes pockets of that stuff can get trapped between the rotor and the hub and keep it from sitting perfectly flat. This can eventually cause vibration issues. It's also bad practice to put any kind of lubricant on the threads of the studs as this will allow for the lugs to tighten more than they are supposed to (Even with a torque wrench) which can lead to stripped threads, broken studs, and again vibration issues.

I did not show it but I did remove the antiseize from the threads with a rag and forgot to mention that . Thanks for the reminder. Making a DIY while working with a 400 dollar iPhone means I tried not to take to many pictures and my phone is currently still covered in brake dust and lube. As far as the anti seize on the hub it may have been a little much but that was again a rough picture. That is why I state use light layers. Also remember that unless you use an on car lathe or wire brush the hub when replacing the rotors to ensure complete cleanliness and have torqued the lug nuts to spec from new there is always a chance the hub is not perfectly flat as it is. Especially with the rust build up on the hubs of people who would do this DIY to save money.

Lastly I have problems with you showing the "Duralast" brand box but this is just because of my dislike for "Autozone" in general. At least you have Toyota pads!

Trust me I hate duralast but Toyota rotors are overpriced, I do not have a lathe or the time to drop off the rotors at a machine shop for turning, and Wearever rotors are over 12 more a piece. And there isn't a carquest or Napa for miles. And I have used these in the past with no issues and they come with a 2 year warranty. I only use Toyota pads on my brake jobs. The aftermarket crap is garbage just like the hardware.

All in all however it's a good write-up. Doing brakes is not difficult and is a great way to save yourself tons of cash! Good job!

Thanks just doing every little thing I can to keep these cars on the road. It literally pains me to see an awesome condition Camry in the junkyard with a broken 60 dollar timing belt. I saw an immaculate 3VZFE XLE 93 Camry with a broken tbelt in a junkyard. Immaculate gray leather and all the options.

My responses quoted in blue.

[TRDRadRedTaco]

Great write up....THANKS!! I currently have 114,000 miles on my 2008 matrix and it has the original brakes. I know I'm living on borrowed time but haven't had the money to get them changed. With this write up, I'll be able to do it my self.

QUESTION: Since you obviously know what you're doing, I need to change the plugs as well. Any suggestions on plugs to get? Should I just stay with the OEM that Toyota uses? Thanks

[SuperchargedMR2]

I would add that bleeding the brakes after changing the pads would be good. Bleeding the brakes should be done every 2-3 years & most of us need to change our brake pads less often.

And you need to ditch those hubcaps for some real wheels. Hubcaps shown be outlawed anyway IMO.

[MasterTecInSTL]

Technically you should open the bleeders when you compress the piston anyway especially if you have ABS. This way any sediment in there gets pushed out the opening instead of pushed back up into the hydraulic valves.

[hardtopte72]

I would personally use the Denso originals or NGK Laser Iridum. These are the longest lasting and both are dual precious metals. Since I worked at the dealer I only installed Densos in our cars and obviously they work great.

And it is not my car it is a friends. All 3 of my yotas rolla on alloys. That is a requirement.

[TRDRadRedTaco]

Thanks everyone, and sorry, didn't mean to hijack the thread. I went ahead and purchased the NGK Laser Iridum on Amazon for $7.73/plug and free shipping. At that price I saved about $5 per plug!!

[Flipster23]

Nice write up, I actually have to change my brake pads soon. 7 years 74k and they are finally going out, gotta love Toyota OEM pads...

[Remi2k7]

just another note: its best to also clean the rotors cause some aftermarket parts use some kind of material on them to keep them looking shiny but can cause your brakes to glaze and same thing if your going to resurface your rotors, cause just in case they the place you took it too didn't, which can also cause damage to your new brakes.

[hardtopte72]

Originally Posted by Remi2k7

just another note: its best to also clean the rotors cause some aftermarket parts use some kind of material on them to keep them looking shiny but can cause your brakes to glaze and same thing if your going to resurface your rotors, cause just in case they the place you took it too didn't, which can also cause damage to your new brakes.

This is what your brake clean is for. I use it everytime regardless if I cut the rotors myself or they are brand new.

[dz63]

Thank you for the detailed write-up. I changed the rotors and pads last week on my wife's 2008 Corolla.

I got 77,000km (48,000 miles) out of the original OEM pads which is not too bad I guess. The pads were less than 1mm thick and the wear indicators were touching the rotors. It took quite a bit of "encouragement" to get the rotors off the hubs. I did spread a light coating of anti-seize on the hubs to make it easier to get the rotors off in another 4 years when I have to do this again.

My local Parts Source had ATE Premium One rotors on sale for $80/rotor and Wagner Thermoquiet pads on sale for $70 for the set, so I thought I would give them a try. OEM was $91/rotor and $79 for pads at the local dealership. I could have gone either way, but I actually think the ATE rotors will last longer than the OEM rotors.

Up here in Ontario, they throw salt on the roads in winter and it really takes a toll on the brake rotors. My rotors were so badly rusted. The ATE rotors are plated - so it will be interesting to see how they hold up to the road salt. If anyone stumbles on this thread and is comparing ATE to OEM rotors, I measured the thickness of the ATE rotors with my Vernier calipers and they were the same thickness as the OEM rotors.

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brake...Rotor&make=ATE

Wagner Thermoquiet pads get pretty good reviews on the net. They were about $10 cheaper than OEM pads at the local dealership. Again, I could have easily gone OEM, but I am hoping that the Wagner Thermoquiets will last a bit longer than the 77,000km that I got on the OEM pads. Only time will tell. My wife hasn't really noticed any difference in braking - but then again, she is really easy on both the gas pedal and the brakes. She is a much better driver than I am. Silent braking so far - but it's only been one week.

The whole issue of leaving the wheel studs dry is new to me. I have always put Loctite on the studs and torqued my wheel nuts - have never broken a stud yet. However, I did a little research on the internet. There sure are a lot of mixed and strong opinions on this topic. In the end, it appears to me that the evidence is stacked against lubrication, so I decided not to put Loctite on the studs. On my Corolla, I have dome head wheel nuts, so they should not get too badly rusted on. On my Camry, the nuts are open at the back and the threads get pretty badly rusted. I am not sure if I could get the nuts off without impact. I am leaning toward Loctite on those ones just in case I ever have to change a tire on the side of the road.

Thanks again for posting your procedure. I know that it takes a lot of work to write up a procedure and post photos. Your generosity in doing so, is much appreciated. The TN forum is one of the best forums that I subscribe to. Lot's of genuinely helpful people here and you are no exception.

My vote for a sticky on this thread!

[hardtopte72]

I am glad it helped.

[leaux]

Nice job posting this, definately helps me with my Camry.

What about break runout? I have read some stuff on it and it is not as simple as changing rotors.

What about Brembo aftermarket rotors, the standard version not the high performance rotors.

[hardtopte72]

Originally Posted by leaux

Nice job posting this, definately helps me with my Camry.

What about break runout? I have read some stuff on it and it is not as simple as changing rotors.

What about Brembo aftermarket rotors, the standard version not the high performance rotors.

New rotors all have a level of runout. Duralast is going to be more than Brembo 9 times out of 10. I have cut new rotors and it is almost never really necessary.

Those Duralast cost around 30 bucks each. You can buy whatever rotors you want but in day to day mixed driving you probably won't notice.