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Old 01-20-2012, 07:40 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Code P0133 -- 2004 Corolla

I'm getting close to 100K, and the check engine came on, code P0133. Got it scanned at Autozone, and replaced the O2 sensor with Denso that looked exactly like the stock. Some 15 miles later the check engine light is still on, and code still reads P0133. Does it take longer than that to clear or is it something other than O2 sensor? If so what could it be?
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Old 01-20-2012, 09:23 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Did you erase the code after the job? If so, did the temperature drop that day? The following TSB has this code included. Intake manifold gasket replacement is not too hard and the part price is under $10. You may want try it.
http://toyota.justanswer.com/uploads...rolla_0171.pdf


They're some discussion here about the gasket and other codes:
2004 Corolla P0171 code (system to lean)

Last edited by shoujiliuzhijun; 01-20-2012 at 09:30 PM.
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Old 01-20-2012, 10:55 PM   #3 (permalink)
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P0133 is for slow response of O2 sensor #1. This is almost always due to a bad sensor.

I have a feeling that dixon replaced the wrong one. There is one up at the exhaust manifold and a second one down behind the catalytic converter. It is the one up at the manifold that needs to be replaced.
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Old 01-21-2012, 12:05 AM   #4 (permalink)
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shoujiliuzhijun, thanks for the advice the link.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MasterTecInSTL View Post
P0133 is for slow response of O2 sensor #1. This is almost always due to a bad sensor.

I have a feeling that dixon replaced the wrong one. There is one up at the exhaust manifold and a second one down behind the catalytic converter. It is the one up at the manifold that needs to be replaced.


Nope, I did replace the upper one. That said, being new to Toyotas, I came pretty close to replacing the downstream sensor.
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Old 01-24-2012, 09:22 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I had this same problem (same code) with one of my old Hondas and after replacing the sensor three times, a random dealership I stopped in diagnosed it as incorrect wiring. Make sure you check the wiring.

Also, make sure you used the right sensor. The drive by wire ones (~2005 and newer) have a different sensor than the 2004 and older with a standard throttle body.
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Old 01-24-2012, 10:54 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks for the advise, all! Well, I doubt it's the wiring because the car's been in the family for years and it's a new problem. I replaced the sensor with a direct replacement denso that looked exactly like the stock toyota. The CEL went away after some 50 miles of driving, but then came back.

Gonna replace the intake manifold gasket on the weekend. Anyone has an opinion on the Fel-Pro brand ($4.80 at Advance Auto, or less with their online coupons)? And is it necessary to drain the coolant? I have some rubber plugs of assorted sizes and was thinking of just plugging the hoses while I do the repair.

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Old 01-25-2012, 01:25 AM   #7 (permalink)
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You better get Toyota's revised # 17171-22060 which retails for $5.62, or Victor Reinz # MS19590.

https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,c...LA%2B1.8L%2BL4

No need to drain coolant or remove throttle body coolant lines.

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1st pic shows elusive brake booster vacuum hose on intake manifold, which is hidden once throttle body is installed... Intake manifold gasket was easily replaced on friend's 2005 without draining any coolant or disconnecting throttle body coolant lines, by setting (+cleaning) throttle body aside.





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Old 01-25-2012, 06:13 AM   #8 (permalink)
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I will add that when there was a huge (over 1000 gasket) back order for the new gasket at Toyota we used the Fel-Pro gasket as it was identical to the updated gasket and always fixed the issue.

But no sense in risking the issue with the gasket now readily available.

As far as the code did autozone guy clear the code or did you unplug the battery? It may be still set.
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Old 01-25-2012, 06:56 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hardtopte72 View Post
As far as the code did autozone guy clear the code or did you unplug the battery? It may be still set.
Neither. The autozone guy said they can only read codes, not reset them. And I didn't feel like losing all my radio settings by unplugging the battery. I don't know much about it, but thought that it would reset back to normal after some time even without a reset.
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Old 01-25-2012, 02:04 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Yes but that's over 32 key cycles. You probably still have the code stored. Write down your presets unplug the battery for one minute and hit the brakes a few times.

Then hook everything back up and see if it pops on again.
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Old 01-25-2012, 03:10 PM   #11 (permalink)
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If you have an android device you can buy a bluetooth elm 327 off of ebay for $15 and download torque for free. You will then have a code reader
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Old 01-25-2012, 03:18 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Also it is a good idea to reboot the ecu anytime you replace any sensor
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