Does anyone know where the cheapest place is to pick up a idle air control valve sensor & upstream 02 sensor? This is the last straw before I just give up on this car altogether so I'm hoping for the cheapest place imaginable since it will most likely not fix my problem. Would a junkyard be willing to sell these parts or do they normally try to hang on to them so they can sell the motors complete?
You mean a Throttle Body Idle Speed Control Valve Assy on bottom of throttle body? There's no sensor on it. There is a Throttle Position Sensor behind TB... Throttle body assembly would likely be sold complete at a junkyard.
You mean a Throttle Body Idle Speed Control Valve Assy on bottom of throttle body? There's no sensor on it. There is a Throttle Position Sensor behind TB... Throttle body assembly would likely be sold complete at a junkyard.
Yea unfortunately, I'm looking to replace the IAC. I started with the cheapest parts first and this seems to be the last hoorah. Time to open up my wallet and bend over haha.
The cheapest IAC listed in my revised Ebay link is $96.79 shipped... USA junkyards list the complete throttle body assembly from $25 for ID# 0D110, and $35 for the less common TB with ID# 22170.
Did you have a chance to throw on a data logger and see what the sensors are outputting? Even freeze frame data would be useful, just to see what the sensors are reporting.
Could do an old school hot rod trick with carburators and drill a small hole in the throttle plate to let in more air. That would definitely bump up the RPMs at idle - just have to be careful on the size of the hole. That will atleast get the car from stalling so that you can actually drive it while figuring out what is causing the low idle.
From your posts that you've run the full length of maintenance items to make sure the common parts are worn out. Have to look at the uncommon things - fuel pressure, swapping parts, ignition issue, timing, VVTi problem, ECM issue, emissions/EVAP, etc.
Did you have a chance to throw on a data logger and see what the sensors are outputting? Even freeze frame data would be useful, just to see what the sensors are reporting.
Could do an old school hot rod trick with carburators and drill a small hole in the throttle plate to let in more air. That would definitely bump up the RPMs at idle - just have to be careful on the size of the hole. That will atleast get the car from stalling so that you can actually drive it while figuring out what is causing the low idle.
From your posts that you've run the full length of maintenance items to make sure the common parts are worn out. Have to look at the uncommon things - fuel pressure, swapping parts, ignition issue, timing, VVTi problem, ECM issue, emissions/EVAP, etc.
Yes, Toyota did a full scan and everything was in range. They basically told me the 1zze was notorious for running rough and the only possible solution was a weak passenger side motor mount.
It's right there on top of TB, where your throttle cable cam sits at idle position. Spray a tad of penetrating oil or WD-40 on threads first. Loosen lock nut with 8mm closed-end wrench, and turn set screw in clockwise to open thottle plate with 3.5mm Allen hex key. Start by 1/4 turn, then 1/4 turn more if needed, etc, to see how much difference it makes, then settle with ideal setting for best idle quality. Finish by tightening locknut while holding set screw in position with Allen key.
I am 99% certain your issue is related to the IACV. After reading through all 4 pages I didn't see anywhere where you disassembled the throttle body and cleaned the IACV. If you did I apologize.
The Toyota dealer sounds incompetent. You can active test the IACV (and many other parts to verify your issue) using the techstream tool and instantly see if its bad. This I can guarantee you was never done. And the whole 1ZZFE engines are rough is nonsense. They only get rough when something is wrong. Mine idles nice and smooth as do my brother in laws 01 and 03 1ZZFE cars and a friends 04.
You are in luck however. I have a used but clean IACV. The customer insisted it be replaced and it has been tested to work good.
From this point you have a few options
1. Get rid of the car
2. Disassemble and properly clean your own IACV (which I can guarantee is filled with tons of carbon buildup)
3. Buy my IACV and switch me yours (so I have a spare once I clean it out)
4. Buy a new IACV and get the same results as 2 and 3.
I can show your pics of the diassembled IACV to show what a clean one looks like.
It seems like you are angry at Toyota but really it looks like you just never started with the right area and had an incompetent dealer.
__________________
My Toyota list:
1982 Corolla SR-5 Hardtop 5 Speed Manual(R154) 1JZGTE
2005 Corolla CE 5 Speed Manual 1ZZFE
2009 Camry LE 5 Speed Auto 2AZFE
If I helped out in anyway please hit the thanks button on my post .
yes but based on post #6 in that thread all he did not actually remove the iac (following the advice of an early poster that suggested he could clean the iac without removing it). I agree with hardtop72 that a removal and thorough cleaning of the iac and tb will fix his problem.
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haha.
The Camry
The Hardtop
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