DIY 2003-2008 Corolla, Matrix, Pontiac Vibe PCV valve replacement with PICS! - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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9th Generation (2003-2008) Specific discussion of the 9th generation

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Old 12-09-2012, 09:00 PM   #1 (permalink)
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DIY 2003-2008 Corolla, Matrix, Pontiac Vibe PCV valve replacement with PICS!

I know this is an easy one but just in case I made a DIY for PCV valve replacement.

This DIY will apply identically to all 1ZZFE cars including Celica, Corolla, Matrix, and Pontiac Vibe. It should be nearly identical for 2ZZGE cars as well.

I used the OEM PCV valve since its cheap enough and its a known to work part. I paid 3.85 plus shipping from Greg a.k.a Toyotpartsman. The 1ZZFE uses two different part numbers based on the valve cover. There doesn't appear to be a correlation to where the car was built either. To determine which valve you need you will need to look on your old PCV valve and see which mark it has. Either 22040/41 or 22050/51. One is metric and one is NPT. I believe the 22040 is metric. You could also simply check the thread yourself.

I did the PCV on both my Camry and Corolla. The valves were identical bodies, thread, and shape. The only difference I noticed was a number 5 stamped on the Camry internal valve and nothing stamped on the Corolla internal valve. Also my old Corolla PCV valve had noticeably more rattle than my Camry but the Camry PCV valve was not stuck.

Disclaimer: Disclaimer: Myself or Toyotanation are not responsible for any damage or injury that may result from use of the DIY. Automotive maintenance and repair should be performed by qualified technicians. This DIY is for informational purposes only. Use at your own risk.


Tools and Parts needed:

3/8 drive 10mm socket
3/8 drive ratchet
3/8 drive extension (at least 3 inch)
22mm or 7/8 Wrench or 22mm deep or 7/8 deep socket 12204-22040/41
19mm or 3/4 Wrench or 19mm deep or 3/4 deep socket 12204-22050/51
1/2 drive ratchet (if using 1/2 drive socket)
New PCV Valve: Toyota or aftermarket if you wish. You have to check the thread or old valve first to see which aftermarket option you need.

Part numbers:
PCV valve # 12204-22041 with green Loctite has M16 (16mm diameter) x 1.5mm threads. It takes a 22mm or 7/8" (22.225mm) wrench.

PCV valve # 12204-22051 with pink Loctite has 3/8" BSP threads (16.6624mm diameter), 19 TPI (1.337mm threads). It takes a 3/4" (19.05mm) or 19mm wrench.

Thanks shoujiliuzhijun for the info on loctite colors!
Thanks invader for thread and tool specs!



Step 1. Park car on a level surface and set the parking brake. Shut engine off and pop the hood.


Step 2. Remove the engine cover. Remove the engine cover by removing the 1 nut and 1 nut-stud from the engine cover with your 10mm socket and ratchet. If you still have the clips from the rear of the cover carefully pry up the rear of the cover to remove them. If not move on to the next step.


Step 3. Locate the PCV Valve. It is located toward the rear drivers side of the valve cover.


Step 4. Remove the PCV valve hose by pulling it straight off. It should come right off, but if it doesn't press the clamp and lower it on the hose and use hose pliers to twist off the hose.


Step 5. Using your ratchet and deep socket or wrench loosen the PCV valve and remove it from the valve cover. Using a wrench is time consuming here. This PCV Valve has 110K miles. Don't mind the lack of green loctite. I removed it once to have a look at it, your will likely have it.



Step 6. Install your new PCV valve. I am not sure if non Toyota valves come with loctite on the threads or if they are metal or plastic. I would stick with Toyota here. Make sure your PCV valve is snug and tight. No need to overtighten here.


Step 7. Reinstall the PCV valve hose on the new PCV valve


Step 8. Reinstall the engine cover using the 1 10mm nuts and 1 10mm nut-stud.


Step 9. Start the car and verify no surging, hissing, or other weird noises exist.

Step 10. You are done. Admire your work and the 20-50 bucks you save by doing this yourself versus taking it somewhere.
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Last edited by hardtopte72; 02-08-2013 at 03:03 PM.
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Old 12-09-2012, 09:54 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I strongly recommend OEM valve and they are cheap. Give the dealer your VIN, as you noted that there are 2 different part numbers for the PCV valve.
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Old 12-09-2012, 10:39 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for the DIY
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Old 12-09-2012, 10:44 PM   #4 (permalink)
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PCV valve is torqued to 22 ft-lbs.

My PCV valve was still fine and operating as it should when I checked it at 155,000 miles. It wasn't as dirty either. I cleaned it and reinstalled it.

Last edited by invader; 12-09-2012 at 11:24 PM.
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Old 12-10-2012, 12:25 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
PCV valve is torqued to 22 ft-lbs.

My PCV valve was still fine and operating as it should when I checked it at 155,000 miles. It wasn't as dirty either. I cleaned it and reinstalled it.
Mine was barely dirty and the phone has a hard time catching that.

How did you verify operation? Rattling?

For $3.85 and since the part does a pretty important job I can't see why you wouldn't replace it.
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Old 12-10-2012, 12:35 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Rattling, air flows out easily, and flows in with difficulty... What is important is to check it for proper function, and cleanliness. It is also good to make sure any new replacement PCV valve is funtioning properly before installing it.

See section 2 on page 4 (12-10): "VENTILATION VALVE SUB–ASSY"

http://madstyle1972.com/Repair/12/201kuc04/inspec40.pdf

Last edited by invader; 12-10-2012 at 12:44 AM.
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Old 12-10-2012, 01:32 AM   #7 (permalink)
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To each their own.

Both my old PCV valves were in working order and could have been cleaned.
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Old 12-10-2012, 01:34 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikered30 View Post
I strongly recommend OEM valve and they are cheap. Give the dealer your VIN, as you noted that there are 2 different part numbers for the PCV valve.
Thanks Mike.

Giving the VIN does not give you the valve always. My VIN still pulled up both. I needed to verify the mark on the valve body itself. Mine was marked 22040 and they still make that valve but the 22041 is the updated version.
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Old 12-10-2012, 09:40 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I want to add that the two types of PCV valves are with different colors on the threads. One is green and the other is pink. If you are not sure which one it is, you may consider just take the old one out after you arrive at the dealer since this is a relatively easy job. You can feel abnormal resistance when tightening if the thread is wrong.
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Old 12-10-2012, 12:20 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Is there a grommet that needs to be replaced?

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using AutoGuide.Com Free App
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Old 12-10-2012, 03:57 PM   #11 (permalink)
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No grommet. Excellent info on the colors will add that in.
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Old 12-11-2012, 09:34 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Great info!! Thanks for taking the time to share.
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Old 12-27-2012, 02:33 PM   #13 (permalink)
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There's a difference. I tried to change my PCV valve (green) with the pink one. First difference I noticed is the diameter's smaller for pink, not 7/8. Next, the pink one does not thread into the hole very, very difficult and finally stops. Didn't want to cause any damage so I removed it and re-installed the green one, after cleaning it.
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Old 02-08-2013, 12:52 AM   #14 (permalink)
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PCV valve # 12204-22041 with green Loctite has M16 (16mm diameter) x 1.5mm threads. It takes a 22mm or 7/8" (22.225mm) wrench or deep socket

PCV valve # 12204-22051 with pink Loctite has 3/8" BSP threads (16.6624mm diameter), 19 TPI (1.337mm threads). It takes a 3/4" (19.05mm) or 19mm wrench or deep socket.

Last edited by invader; 02-08-2013 at 03:15 PM.
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Old 02-08-2013, 01:20 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Thanks, invader. So at least one can find out before even removing the part which part number they'll need based on the tool needed for removal.
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