DIY 2003-2008 Corolla, Matrix, Pontiac Vibe Toyota Injector Flush with PICS! - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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9th Generation (2003-2008) Specific discussion of the 9th generation

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Old 12-10-2012, 03:47 AM   #1 (permalink)
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DIY 2003-2008 Corolla, Matrix, Pontiac Vibe Toyota Injector Flush with PICS!

Here is a DIY for the fuel injector cleaning procedure using the OEM Toyota Fuel Injector cleaner kit and the Toyota proprietary fuel injector cleaner. This procedure works and has been known to cure issues. Toyota specifically recommends it in this TSB http://www.matrixowners.com/tsb/TS-PG011-05.pdf. This procedure will work on all 2003-2008 Toyota Corolla, Matrix, and Pontiac Vibe. 8th Gen Corollas and 7th Gen Celicas use a slightly smaller diameter fuel line so the kit will work, but the quick disconnect fuel line will be very hard to remove from the adapter.

This procedure is also nearly identical for other Toyota vehicles with a return-less style fuel system like Avalon, Rav4, Highlander, Solara, Venza, etc. Sienna and Lexus RX use the same system but due to fuel line location you will need to jack them up and remove the drivers front wheel and mount the can on the strut and do the service. For vehicles with a return style fuel system like 4Runner, Tundra, and Tacoma, simply use the block off adapter in the adapter pack for the return line (smaller inside diameter line).

My procedure is slightly different from Toyota and only removes the unnecessary steps or simplifies some.

Disclaimer: Myself or Toyotanation are not responsible for any damage or injury that may result from use of the DIY. Automotive maintenance and repair should be performed by qualified technicians. This DIY is for informational purposes, use it at your own risk.

This DIY is not to discuss the merits of this service verus aftermarket services. This is strictly to discuss this procedure. Last time I checked the kit, adapter pack, and cans can be purchased online. Most dealers will likely not sell to you. This kit is not a cost effective solution for regular maintenance if you do not plan on doing them regularly or to more than one Toyota vehicle.

Tools and Parts needed:

Toyota Fuel Injector Kit: 00289–1PF00–01
Toyota Fuel injector Adapter Pack (To connect to fuel line): 00289–1PF00–02
Pressurized EFI Cleaner: 00289-1PF07 (7 OZ) OR 00289-1PF14 (14 OZ). The 7 oz is more than enough.
Rag
Drain pan (to try and catch and leaking fuel). I never used them but to each their own. This stuff evaporates quickly.
3/8 drive 8mm socket and 10mm socket (for fuel pump cover depending on application)
3/8 drive ratchet


I will start of by saying I do not disconnect the fuel pump or remove the circuit open relay because I made my own fuel block off line using an OEM fuel line I cut off an 03 Corolla at the junkyard. You can use the supplied block off in the kit if you want, but its not very good and I recommend unplugging the fuel pump connector. I will add that onn different cars unplugging the Circuit open relay is easiest. I recommend doing this every 30K. Once you have the kit the can only costs around 12 bucks at your dealer. I don't know how you can bypass needing the kit completely.

Step 1. Park the car on a level surface, set the parking braking and shut off the engine and pop the hood.


Step 2. Assemble your fuel injection kit. You will need to use the adapter pictured from the adapter pack for these cars. Make sure you are using a line adapter and not a block off adapter. Secure the line hand adapter hand tight to the EFI kit like shown.


Step 3. Hang your EFI kit to the hood of the car using the hook on the EFI kit.

Step 4. MAKE SURE THE KIT VALVE IS THE CLOSED (horizontal) POSTION!! Attach your EFI can to EFI kit making sure it is tightly secured so the valve will open for flow.
Closed


Open


Can attached


Step 5. Depending on if you block off or unplug your fuel line will determine which step you take. If you are disconnecting the fuel pump connector use step 5a. If using a block off for the line use 5b. If removing the Circuit open relay use step 5c.
5a. (I DID NOT TAKE PICTURES OF THIS STEP).
a. Remove any car seats or items in the rear seats.
b. Remove the rear seat bottom by prying up at the bottom of the seat towards the floor at the center of the driver side seat and passenger side seat of the car. Remove the seat and set it aside.
c. Locate the Black cover for the fuel pump connector. Some of these are stuck to the car using FIPG like sealant and some are attached using screws. If you have screws remove the screws (8mm or 10mm) and pry up the cover. If you have sealant simply pry the cover away from the floor.
d. After moving the cover just enough to access the fuel pump connector depress the connector release and unplug the connector.
e. Start the car and allow it to completely stall.

5b.
a. Remove the fuel line quick disconnect retainer. It helps to start at the quick disconnect and then remove it off the plastic portion of the line last.


b. Depress the 2 tabs (yellow, though some can be gray) on the side of the quick disconnect and pull off the connector from the plastic fuel line.


c. Attach your block off to the plastic fuel line and tighten it securely being very careful not to overtighten and damage the line if using a hose and clamp.


d. Attach the EFI kit to the quick disconnect using the adapter.


5c.
a. Locate the Circuit open relay. On Corolla, Matrix, and Vibe its nearly impossible to remove and is located inside the dash on the left side of the steering column and is facing upward towards the steering column. It is hidden in a cluster of blue relays and is usually stuck in the socket. I highly recommend pump disconnect for Corolla, Matrix, Vibe.

If using this method ensure that you verify removal of the proper relay. Removing the incorrect relay will result in fuel spray from the disconnected fuel line when the key is turned.

b. Start the car and allow it to completely stall.

Step 6. Attach your EFI kit to the fuel rail line. For those that didn't do 5b above remove the fuel line quick disconnect retainer. It helps to start at the quick disconnect portion of the line and then remove off the rest pf the plastic line last. Attach the EFI kit to the quick disconnect using the adapter until it clicks. Pull to make sure its secured correctly.


Step 7-9. Use the attached video for reference for the following steps. Disregard the idle and noise. It was cold started when I did this since I hadn't driven it today.

Step 7. Slowly open the valve to allow the fuel rail line to be pressurized.


Step 8. Check for leaks at the line. If small bubbling but no drops occur that is ok, they will be sucked in when runing. If leaking or dripping occurs, close the valve and make sure you are using the correct adapter and its seated in the quick disconnect correctly.

Step 9. Start the car and check for leaks. Allow the car to run until it stalls. This can take up to 20 mins or so (less if you rev the engine).



Steps 10-14. Use the attached video for the following steps.

Step 10. Once the car stalls using the attached video disconnect the fuel rail line by first moving the EFI kit valve handle to the closed position. Using your rag cover the area where the kit and quick disconnect meet and by depress the 2 tabs while looking away from the line and disconnect the quick disconnect.

Step 11. Move the hose out of the way and reattach your fuel line. If you have a block off remove it then attach the quick disconnect to the fuel line. If you removed pump power reconnect the fuel line and reinstall the retainer bracket.

Step 12. (ONLY IF PUMP POWER DISCONNECTED) If you disconnected pump power either reattach the fuel pump connector or reinstall the Circuit open relay. Reinstall the rear seat bottom or circuit open relay depending on which method you took.

Step 13. Start the car and check for leaks while also verifying it idles normal. Disregard the extended crank. To get the most out of my can I kept running and starting the car after it initially stalled so it was dry.

Step 14. Remove your EFI kit, clean up any spills, depressurize the kit, and you are officially done.

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Last edited by hardtopte72; 01-10-2013 at 02:00 AM.
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Old 12-10-2012, 04:59 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Are the results different compared to a bottle of Seafoam?
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Old 12-10-2012, 05:50 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Based on the limited research I have done, Seafoam doesn't work to clean injectors. From what I understand its a lubricant more than anything which can cause problems in your catalytic converter.

The results here would be more like using drano on a slightly clogged drain.
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Old 12-10-2012, 05:21 PM   #4 (permalink)
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UPDATE:

I just drove the car since the service and my extended cranking issue is gone. I figured it was my fuel pump getting weak or a product of age, but its cleared up now.
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Old 12-11-2012, 05:59 PM   #5 (permalink)
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So...I'm gonna pick your brain for a moment

Is there a specific point (in terms of mileage) you suggest doing something like this for maintenance/prevent other issues, OR should this only be done if you notice the symptoms of dirty injectors?

Reason I ask is I know dealers LOVE to push this service starting REALLY early in mileage (I've had them push it at 50k miles).
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Old 12-12-2012, 06:12 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Preventatively 30K miles.

Or you can try and do it as symptoms appear.

Your call. 30k intervals puts me around .80 cents a month cost of ownership for this.
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Old 12-12-2012, 09:41 PM   #7 (permalink)
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This is very similar to what I do at work for fuel system cleaning service. We have a kit like that, that we used and it's hooked up to the air shop. Then we disconnect either the fuel pump relay or pull the fuel pump fuse so that it'll shut off by itself after it's done using the liquid cleaner in the canister.
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Old 12-13-2012, 05:08 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Good to hear nusdogg.

Update: I also noticed that some of the power loss when acclerating after coasting/shifting (from injector cut-off and turning back on) is restored. Shifts are much smoother to power on.

I will add that I haven't done this in around 40K miles. I have also pumped gas at several gas stations along the east coast from Miami to Virginia.
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Old 12-26-2012, 02:23 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Was at the dealer last week who is also selling the Chevron's Techron. Stated it's so good that if it's done regularly, i.e. every 4000 - 6000 miles this type of cleaning is not required. Any comments?
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Old 12-26-2012, 05:03 PM   #10 (permalink)
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At 5 bucks a bottle over 30K miles the Techron costs me anywhere from 25-35 bucks. I can do this for 12.50 a can.

This is also great when uses preventatively and on a car. Depending on the kit price. You would have keep the car a while for it to pay for the kit. But if you have more than one Toyota it pays for itself very quickly. In the case my family and I currently have 7 Toyotas I maintain. If you have more than one Toyota this can pay for itself in around 2-3 years.

Lucky for me I got the kit free from working at a dealership.
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