I recently blew a 2ZZ and am not going to attempt a rebuild but just sell my core to MWR for whatever they offer. I will be going the JDM route and so far have only been able to find 2ZZ's from 2001 to 2004. In addition to tapping EGR air injeciton ports above the exhaust ports what else should I have done that isn't included in Hardtop's engine switch guide?
So far lift bolts and oil pump come to mind. I am looking for only the items that are known to be defective on the 2001-2004 2ZZ's.
Since all 2ZZGE engines are Japan built and don't have EGR, you should be fine to swap the long block. Following the general rules of the guide, you WILL
need to reuse your manifolds, wiring harness, and ECU (NO EXCEPTIONS!). You will probably also need to reuse your alternator, starter, power steering pump, and A/C compressor (these may make good spares).
Some early 2ZZGE models are known to be oil burners. I think the issue only affected 1999-2001 models. As long as your 2ZZGE is newer than that you should be fine. Older models require the same basic fix as the older 1ZZFE, namely tear down and drilling of the piston holes.
The only other issues you already took care of; lift bolts and oil pump.
Just make sure the new engine has bolt holes for the carrier bearing bracket on the passenger side.
Like in the guide, I highly recommend the following preventatively:
Clutch kit (if manual transmission) -
Rear main seal (Got a Japanese made Stone in a Felpro box before)
Timing chain tensioner o-ring
Front crank seal (OEM Toyota or Napa Altrom)
Oil pan reseal (Black Toyota FIPG, Hondabond, Yamabond, Permatex Ultra Black or Ultra Gray RTV)
Timing cover reseal (Black Toyota FIPG, Hondabond, Yamabond, Permatex Ultra Black or Ultra Gray RTV)
Valve cover gasket
Water pump (OEM Toyota or Aisin only)
Thermostat (OEM Toyota only)
Spark plugs (see maintenance sticky)
Upstream O2 sensor (OEM or Denso only)
Intake manifold gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, and Throttle body gasket (OEM Toyota only)
PCV Valve (OEM Toyota only)
Would probably also be a good time to replace the axle seals and engine/transmission mounts.
One of the options does, is it better to get the ECU? I plan to use the one I already have, can I sell the other?
The Japanese ECU is useless to you and pretty much anyone else without a Japanese car. The wiring pins are guaranteed to be different and the plugs likely don't match up. Since you probably don't have a wiring diagram for the car the engine will come out of (if you even know), you probably couldn't even make a patch harness.
In general, you don't use Japanese ECUs unless you are swapping/making a new engine harness. You cannot simply plug in a Japanese harness into your car as half the components are on the "wrong" side and would require significant lengthening/shortening work to the harness and the other half would be completely different based on the car.
Again, short answer is no it won't work. Keep your ECU and harness. The engine harness is great to have as a spare in case you break any connectors like cam sensor, OCV, ignition coil, etc.
Hope that helps