What to replace on a 2001-2004 JDM 2ZZ - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Corolla 9th Gen/1st Gen Matrix (2003-2008) 9th generation Corolla and 1st generation Matrix discussion.

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post #1 of 18 Old 06-18-2017, 12:19 AM Thread Starter
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What to replace on a 2001-2004 JDM 2ZZ

Hey there
I recently blew a 2ZZ and am not going to attempt a rebuild but just sell my core to MWR for whatever they offer. I will be going the JDM route and so far have only been able to find 2ZZ's from 2001 to 2004. In addition to tapping EGR air injeciton ports above the exhaust ports what else should I have done that isn't included in Hardtop's engine switch guide?

So far lift bolts and oil pump come to mind. I am looking for only the items that are known to be defective on the 2001-2004 2ZZ's.
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post #2 of 18 Old 06-18-2017, 09:07 AM
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The oil pump had a tendency to fall apart at higher RPMs and under abuse and stress. The lift bolts after a certain model year were treated to prevent breakage. But I'm not 100% on what year the treatment began. The timing cover leaking is common and I don't believe you can do it while it's installed in the vehicle so be sure to do it while it's outside.
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post #3 of 18 Old 06-18-2017, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
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Is it the entire timing cover seal or just the tensioner?
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post #4 of 18 Old 06-18-2017, 01:11 PM
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I would recommend purchasing the rebuild kit for the caps and bolts for the crank along with arp studs. I believe mwr sells most items for the 2zz.
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post #5 of 18 Old 06-18-2017, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
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"If it ain't broke yet, it's probably still working like a Swiss time piece; until you open it up and all hell breaks loose"
Your words I think....
I was hoping not to open up the bottom end at all, at most I could change the oil pump and do valve clearance but every time I have undone the rod caps I end up with an issues not matter what precautions I, might just rely on the oem bolts to hold...
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post #6 of 18 Old 06-18-2017, 03:15 PM
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Yes that's what I say. But since the condition is not known with the JDM block, it may be wiser to go ahead and rebuild. The main reason I say this, I have seen in the past of used engine dealers selling junk blocks. Yes they have warranties, but would piss me off if the block had a crack or worse.
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post #7 of 18 Old 06-18-2017, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
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would an issue like that be evident within a few days of starting the engine?
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post #8 of 18 Old 06-18-2017, 04:40 PM
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You might be able to wire it up to a battery and starter to do a compression test. That's the best way to know if there's an issue in any of the cylinders.
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post #9 of 18 Old 06-18-2017, 04:53 PM Thread Starter
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I'll definitely do a compression test after installing the engine, although I could do one before hand, the engines come with a 30 day warranty so I should be able to take the engine out again is there is an issue.
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post #10 of 18 Old 06-19-2017, 02:01 AM
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Where is the JDM block coming from? MWR or a different dealer?
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post #11 of 18 Old 06-19-2017, 08:46 AM Thread Starter
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These are the place I have found so far, I live in New England so N.Y.C is the closest city with a high number of these JDM importers, not sure which one I am going to pick.

http://jdmengineworld.com/product/jd...i-engine-only/

https://jdmnewyork.com/product/03-04...ne-jdm-2zz-ge/

https://www.jdmenginezone.com/toyota...-fe-18l-vvtl-i

MWR doesn't sell JDM's I don't think, as swell a company MWR is (especially for custom orders) their big budget items are just out of my price range...
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post #12 of 18 Old 06-19-2017, 10:31 AM
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Most engine dealers will make a claim it has 50-60,000 km on the engines they sell. Just look for signs of leaking on the valve cover gasket and around the timing chain cover. Are they including the ECU?
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post #13 of 18 Old 06-19-2017, 08:50 PM Thread Starter
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One of the options does, is it better to get the ECU? I plan to use the one I already have, can I sell the other?
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post #14 of 18 Old 06-19-2017, 09:12 PM
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You'll have to use it. The settings are different unless you go with an programmable ECU when tuning.
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post #15 of 18 Old 06-19-2017, 11:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkcev View Post
Hey there
I recently blew a 2ZZ and am not going to attempt a rebuild but just sell my core to MWR for whatever they offer. I will be going the JDM route and so far have only been able to find 2ZZ's from 2001 to 2004. In addition to tapping EGR air injeciton ports above the exhaust ports what else should I have done that isn't included in Hardtop's engine switch guide?

So far lift bolts and oil pump come to mind. I am looking for only the items that are known to be defective on the 2001-2004 2ZZ's.
Since all 2ZZGE engines are Japan built and don't have EGR, you should be fine to swap the long block. Following the general rules of the guide, you WILL need to reuse your manifolds, wiring harness, and ECU (NO EXCEPTIONS!). You will probably also need to reuse your alternator, starter, power steering pump, and A/C compressor (these may make good spares).

Some early 2ZZGE models are known to be oil burners. I think the issue only affected 1999-2001 models. As long as your 2ZZGE is newer than that you should be fine. Older models require the same basic fix as the older 1ZZFE, namely tear down and drilling of the piston holes.

The only other issues you already took care of; lift bolts and oil pump.

Just make sure the new engine has bolt holes for the carrier bearing bracket on the passenger side.

Like in the guide, I highly recommend the following preventatively:

Clutch kit (if manual transmission) -
Rear main seal (Got a Japanese made Stone in a Felpro box before)
Timing chain tensioner o-ring
Front crank seal (OEM Toyota or Napa Altrom)
Oil pan reseal (Black Toyota FIPG, Hondabond, Yamabond, Permatex Ultra Black or Ultra Gray RTV)
Timing cover reseal (Black Toyota FIPG, Hondabond, Yamabond, Permatex Ultra Black or Ultra Gray RTV)
Valve cover gasket
Water pump (OEM Toyota or Aisin only)
Thermostat (OEM Toyota only)
Spark plugs (see maintenance sticky)
Upstream O2 sensor (OEM or Denso only)
Intake manifold gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, and Throttle body gasket (OEM Toyota only)
PCV Valve (OEM Toyota only)

Would probably also be a good time to replace the axle seals and engine/transmission mounts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bkcev View Post
One of the options does, is it better to get the ECU? I plan to use the one I already have, can I sell the other?
The Japanese ECU is useless to you and pretty much anyone else without a Japanese car. The wiring pins are guaranteed to be different and the plugs likely don't match up. Since you probably don't have a wiring diagram for the car the engine will come out of (if you even know), you probably couldn't even make a patch harness.

In general, you don't use Japanese ECUs unless you are swapping/making a new engine harness. You cannot simply plug in a Japanese harness into your car as half the components are on the "wrong" side and would require significant lengthening/shortening work to the harness and the other half would be completely different based on the car.

Again, short answer is no it won't work. Keep your ECU and harness. The engine harness is great to have as a spare in case you break any connectors like cam sensor, OCV, ignition coil, etc.

Hope that helps

My Toyota List:

1982 Corolla SR-5 1JZGTE M/T
2005 Corolla CE 1ZZFE M/T
2005 Sequoia Limited 2UZFE A/T

If I helped out in any way please hit the Thanks button under my post.

Last edited by hardtopte72; 06-19-2017 at 11:40 PM.
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