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Timing Belt : Need to change! Soon! *Pics*

3K views 17 replies 5 participants last post by  DivinityArcane 
#1 ·
Hey guys !

Firts time I open up the Valve Cover of my 4AF ! 175 000km ... Original Timing Bett and Water Pump !


Alot of mini crack on the belt ... very dry .. Engine look clean tho !


I saw the Kit on RockAuto.com (gates with belt , spring , ilder )

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=295538&cc=1275173&jsn=411
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...75173,engine,timing+belt+&+component+kit,5759

Do I need to change the water pump ? Even is I never had issue with heat in cold winter ? No Coolant(Prestone) odor or leaking... ! Seal ? (Camshaft , Crankshaft)

Thanks !









 
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#2 ·
Could just slap on a new timing belt and call it a day leave everything else alone. No leaking from the cam seal? They tend to weep oil after a while. I've been using Dayco timing belts recently (just the belt not the kits) I really like them they use a softer rubber compound versus brands like Gates and as a result are quieter.

If you get a timing belt kit with water pump get the Aisin TKT-018.
 
#3 ·
That belt needs to go ASAP especially in a humid environment.

If you're doing the belt, it's a convenient time to do the tensioner+spring, timing belt, and cam+crank (front) seals as well as the thermostat since you're draining the coolant. Bare minimum, I'd change the belt + tensioner spring (check its dimensions).
 
#5 ·
98$ Cnd. at my Local AutoParts shop ... DAYCO Kit for 4AF engine. Kit Included : belt, idler , spring , crank/camshaft seals and the Water Pump.

ill post pictures of the job in 2 days !
 
#6 ·
Good luck. I did mine last year (15K miles ago). My cam seal had popped out and I was leaking a lot of oil and the timing belt was all cracked like yours.

The old cam seal looked like it was damaged when it was originally installed, so I took the semicircular cap off to make sure it was positioned correctly.

Make sure you use RTV sealant in the corners of the semicircular areas between the head cover and head, and along the half moon by the end of the intake camshaft. If you look in a repair manual it should show the locations I'm talking about.
 
#10 ·
In the future, just tap it with a rubber mallet first. Should loosen it enough. Otherwise, use a puller with at least 2 points of contact.

Why all that silicone on the front main/crank seal? And interesting window in the exhaust manifold heat shield :p

Going to do the same job on my '92 as soon as I finish swapping valve bodies on the wife's Saturn.
 
#11 ·
Okay ! I did not have one with me .. Experience is the best teacher :)

I just put too much .. but after the pictures id clean it up :)

Im in Vacation .. so I take my time :)


Do you have a 4AF Carb like me ?
 
#15 ·
All the timing is good! Engine Running smooth ! No vibration..!.. But !!! Coolant/Prestone is leaking from one small spot on the new water pump !! fu$%{@ Gasket/RTV !! Need to do the job again... :)
 
#16 ·
I found out the problem on my Water Pump.....The Housing is crack... yes the brand new one .. 12mm bolt ... maybe too tight... but I check the old toyota oem and the bolt housing is not the same .... the Dayco one got a little angle and the OEM is straight flush.... anyway .. let you know !... shit happends..:laugh:
 
#18 ·
As far as I've seen the Dayco water pumps should match up well enough to have a flush seal.. Make sure to torque down the bolts in a criss-cross pattern. Assuming it's an aluminum housing it can either warp or crack very easily!

I need to do my timing belt soon, too. I hadn't realized, until I saw your thread, that the water pump is in with the timing belt.

Should I replace the water pump when I do my belt? The car has 112k miles on it.
If it looks like it hasn't been replaced, it's worth doing when you already have the timing components off and the mount off. Spin it by hand and see how the bearing sounds. If it's not smooth and quiet, definitely replace it. Also check to see if there's any sign of seepage from either the pulley or the housing.
 
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