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6th Generation (1988-1992) Specific discussion of the AE92

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Old 11-16-2007, 09:46 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Canada brake lines and struts - 90 Corolla

Hey all,

I've asked some questions already, and frankly the responses were nothing short of amazing.

I'm doing my struts this weekend, and thought I'd do the brakes at the same time on my 90 corolla. I see that the front brake lines are held in with little spring clips, I'm calling the dealership for some replacements as I will likely be using some sweet force (read hammer+chisel or angle grinder) to get the old ones out. how are the rear lines held in place?

Secondly, the bolts that connect the strut to the knuckle or wheel, are there any special ratings for these, are they best sourced from the dealer or can I get them at any hardware store? I could also go to midas to get them... recommendations.

Again, thanks for all the help!

Patrick
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Old 11-16-2007, 01:43 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I'm trying to imagine how much corrosion you get "up in Canada". Down here in New Mexico, it would be no problem to reuse both the clips and the bolts. In this climate, the clips come off easily if you spray a little WD-40 or penetrating oil under them and pull them off by the ridge where the two sides meet.

In my location I have never seen an equivalent bolt in the hardware store. I can get "grade 8" metric bolts but they do not seem to be made of the same material as those suspension bolts. So I suggest getting bolts from the dealer or the junk yard.


When you take the bolts off, take the nuts off first and then tap the bolt out. It doesn't work very well to begin by trying to losen bolt head.
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Old 11-16-2007, 01:48 PM   #3 (permalink)
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yeah, here with rust, road grime, salt, and 17 years of abuse... I plan on cutting everything off and pounding out anything I can't cut. It's easier, saves knuckles, and grinders are way too much fun to ignore .

I've ordered the clips and bolts from the dealer, I could get the same bolts at the store, but they may not have the tin plating that keeps them from over rusting - silly up here but hey.

thanks for the input. tomorrow is the day for rounding off nuts and swearing a lot. too bad it's cold right now, going to have to use a space heater in the garage...

Patrick
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Old 11-16-2007, 05:37 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Exclamation

New rear struts come with a brake line re-location kit. A new bracket with bolts for each strut. Never needed to replace any front brake line parts when putting new struts on all 4's.

Quote:
Originally Posted by freakboy25 View Post
Hey all,

I've asked some questions already, and frankly the responses were nothing short of amazing.

I'm doing my struts this weekend, and thought I'd do the brakes at the same time on my 90 corolla. I see that the front brake lines are held in with little spring clips, I'm calling the dealership for some replacements as I will likely be using some sweet force (read hammer+chisel or angle grinder) to get the old ones out. how are the rear lines held in place?

Secondly, the bolts that connect the strut to the knuckle or wheel, are there any special ratings for these, are they best sourced from the dealer or can I get them at any hardware store? I could also go to midas to get them... recommendations.

Again, thanks for all the help!

Patrick
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Old 11-19-2007, 12:39 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Canada

So I swapped out the rear struts, and as I suspected the clips in the old struts was rusted to death. I ended up having to cut the tab off the struts and then having to cut notches out of the tab so that I could free the hose from the tab. The heat from the grinder boiled the brake fluid in the hose and it came out pretty foamy during the brake bleeding. I didn't use OEM brakes, so I think I have one of my drums slightly out of round. Feels like one brake is grabbing and letting go ever so slightly during braking. the other side seems to squeal - hoping that the squeal goes away after a few more KMs and that the thumpety thump stops - if not I'll have to swap out the offending drum - whichever that one is

Thanks for all your help guys - tonight I plan on doing the fronts. Wish me luck
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Old 11-19-2007, 02:09 PM   #6 (permalink)
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On the drum brakes, it's interesting how much adjustment you can do by just pushing the shoes around with your fingers after you have installed them. Sometimes they seem to be installed correctly but they don't contact the drum evenly. It may be that they would work themselves into an even alighment after using the brakes for awhile, but I never have the patience to wait for that to happen.
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Old 11-22-2007, 08:09 AM   #7 (permalink)
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SERVICE INFORMATION

This TSB outlines the causes of brake vibration and pulsation, and provides the best corrective measures to use.
  1. Symptoms of brake vibration and pulsation.
  2. Cause of vibration/pulsation problems.
  3. Advantage of using an on-car brake lathe.
  4. Rotor replacement and off-car brake lathe procedure.
SYMPTOMS OF BRAKE VIBRATION & PULSATION

Brake vibration problems generally involve one or both of two phenomena, body vibration and/or pedal pulsation.
BRAKE VIBRATION

Applying brakes causes vibration to occur in the instrument panel, steering column, steering wheel, and/or body of the vehicle. See Fig. 1 .
Fig. 1: Areas of Vehicle Affected by Brake Vibration
PEDAL PULSATION

Applying brakes causes the brake pedal to pulsate. This brake pulsation sometimes causes the steering wheel to oscillate when the brakes are applied. See Fig. 2 .
Fig. 2: Application of Brakes Causing Pedal Pulsation
CAUSE OF VIBRATION/PULSATION PROBLEMS

Brake rotor thickness variation causes brake vibration due to changes in the braking force as thick/thin portions of the rotor pass the pads. Brake rotor thickness variation can be measured with a micrometer. See Fig. 3 .
Fig. 3: Measuring Rotor Thickness Variation
There are two factors which cause excessive rotor thickness variation, rotor run out and excessive rust or corrosion on the rotor surface.
ROTOR RUN OUT

Rotor run out can be caused by poor mating of flanges between the hub and rotor when assembled as a unit. Manufacturing tolerance "stack-up" of the rotor and hub may also cause excessive rotor assembly run-out.
If there is rotor run-out, a portion of the rotor comes into contact with the brake pad on each rotor revolution. If left like this, the portion of the rotor that contacts the brake pad becomes worn, creating thickness variation. See Fig. 4 .
Fig. 4: Brake Rotor Run Out
EXCESSIVE RUST OR CORROSION ON ROTOR SURFACE

Driving in areas where salt is applied to road surfaces for winter conditions can cause rust and corrosion when the vehicle is parked for an extended period of time. This occurs on the area where the brake pads are not in contact with the rotor.
When a vehicle is driven with rusted rotors, the area with corrosion wears at a different rate than the non-corroded areas, resulting in excessive thickness variation.
ADVANTAGES OF USING AN ON-VEHICLE BRAKE LATHE

Toyota Motor Corporation Engineers strongly recommend that an on-car rake lathe be used for repairing brake vibration and pulsation. This method improves rotor and hub combined run-out, and is the preferred method when compared to rotor replacement and off-the-car rotor machining.
TECHNICAL ADVANTAGE OF CALIPER MOUNTED BRAKE LATHE

Installing the brake lathe in the same position as the caliper results in minimal run-out relative to the caliper.
Eliminating this run-out minimizes the pad grinding on the rotor an reduces rotor thickness variation.
PRACTICAL USE BENEFITS

Resurfacing rotors on vehicles with rotor/hub assemblies (Land Cruiser, Truck, etc.) can be performed easily. Vehicles with corrosion between hub and rotor flanges can be machined without removing rotor from hub.
ROTOR REPLACEMENT AND OFF-VEHICLE BRAKE LATHE PROCEDURES

If an on-car brake lathe is not available at your dealership, it may be necessary to use an off-car lathe or replace rotors. In order to ensure proper brake vibration and pulsation repairs, pay close attention to the following precautions:
OFF-VEHICLE BRAKE LATHE PRECAUTIONS

Perform routine maintenance of brake lathe components (clearance of arbor shaft to adapters may need to be repaired).
Clean all adapters and shaft to maintain accuracy of equipment.
When installing rotor to machine, clean mud, rust, and/or foreign material from the adapters and rotors.
After installing rotor on machine, check rotor run-out using dial indicator. If run-out is excessive, determine the cause and correct it.
Follow lathe manufacturer repair procedures. Do not cut excessive amounts off rotor during the first cut to save time.
WARNING: Any time a rotor is machined it must be measured for minimum rotor thickness. The thickness for the rotor is never to be less than minimum thickness as specified in the appropriate repair manual.
INSTALLATION OF ROTOR

Check wheel bearing pre-load. If excessive movement is found, adjust bearing pre-load.
Using a dial indicator, measure the rotor 10 mm from the outside edge. See Fig. 5 .
Fig. 5: Measuring Brake Rotor Run Out "On-Vehicle"
PHASE MATCH ROTOR TO HUB

If rotor run-out is at the maximum value or greater, (refer to appropriate repair manual) index the rotor one lug and measure the run-out again. Repeat this process, moving the rotor one lug each time, until the position is found where the run-out is at the minimum and within the maximum value listed in the appropriate repair manual. See Fig. 6 .
Fig. 6: Phase-Matching Rotor Run Out to Hub Run Out
Tighten lug nuts to the specified torque following a star sequence when installing wheels. See Fig. 7 .
NOTE: Do not use an air impact wrench.
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