I been noticing an oil leak on my corolla which i thought at first was water because it's up under the water pump, but i discovered today it's oil... it's to the point that it will leave a small spot whenever i park it for about an hour... i think there's a gasket going out on it, and wondering how much it would cost, and would it be worth getting a new motor instead of fixing it??
Also, how much longer would it be able to run, because it's actually one of my parent's car, but i drive it the most... They don't wanna rebuild the motor unless the motor actually goes...
$10 or less at Toyota. Jack the car up, pull the pass wheel off, pull the plastic covers (bottom) off, pull the drive belts off, pull the plastic covers for the timing belt off (might require to pull off the water pump pulley), reinstall the crank pulley bolt and set motor to TDC, pull the crank pulley off, pull the timing belt and lower gear off, replace seal, put back together in opposite fashion.... if you have the right tools and the crank pulley/lower gear pulley don't give you problems, it's a 30-40 min job. If you change the timing belt at the same time it could take another 30 min or so.
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1) 2004 IS300 Manual/LSD/Sportdesign 2) 2010 Corolla S 5 speed 3) 1986 MR2 "MK1.22" 5sfe/s54 swap 3) 1995 Ford Explorer 4x4, TT/AAL/custom shackle lift, 31"s
for the time spent you should really just replace all the seals it is pretty f**ing cheap...
cam seals, crank front seal, water pumps are like 30$, oil pumps like 70$ timing belt like 30$ and half your motor is new again!!!
i payed my mechanic 30$ to change the waterpump, timing belt, front crank and cam seals but i don't have PS or AC in the way and my plastic guards are removed...
Is this the only oil leak you have? That's pretty good. Usually if the valve cover has ever been taken off, you get leaks at both ends - unless you apply the dabs of sealant there carefully.
if it is the headgasket... here the gasket from toyota is about $50. From there a standard socket set, wrenches, torque wrench and I think it's a 12mm 12 point socket for the head bolts. At that point if your mechanically inclined you should be alright. The car will probably take a couple days from start to finish unless you do it non stop
on 4ag's you gotta pull the cams what about the 4afe? my new valve-cover gasket is collecting dust because i was afraid to mess with my "working" head...
where do you 'DAB' rtv? your telling my the gasket made for the valve-cover needs sealant by the dist/timing gear?
the valve cover doesn't seal over the cam cap on the end of the head (on a 4afe I would assume it's on both sides) very well... put RTV in the corners and you should be fine.
on the 4afe's you need to pull the cams to get the head off. They are 10mm 12pt heads.
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1) 2004 IS300 Manual/LSD/Sportdesign 2) 2010 Corolla S 5 speed 3) 1986 MR2 "MK1.22" 5sfe/s54 swap 3) 1995 Ford Explorer 4x4, TT/AAL/custom shackle lift, 31"s
i have a 90 sr5 and the far left ignition wire had oil on it,its sputtering, is it time for a new cylinder head gasket? i know i have to change plugs and wires, have those with me, but its probly a good idea to change c.head gasket correct? could it be a number of things? thanks to all for your help
i have a 90 sr5 and the far left ignition wire had oil on it,its sputtering, is it time for a new cylinder head gasket? i know i have to change plugs and wires, have those with me, but its probly a good idea to change c.head gasket correct? could it be a number of things? thanks to all for your help
I have a similar issue but its a very small leak and doesn't cause sputtering, but I dont believe a head gasket could cause that, that'd be the valve cover gasket, or the little seals around the tubes which run down to the sparkplugs from the top of te head.
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