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6th Generation (1988-1992) Specific discussion of the AE92

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Old 05-25-2009, 09:52 PM   #1 (permalink)
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No Spark

Hello again,

Not sure if this is done right or not, but I removed the spark plug and connected it to the spark plug wire. I held the spark plug to the ground nut on the frame and had someone crank over the engine.

I didn't see anything from the spark plug. Should I have seen a spark from this.

Does this mean that I have a bad dis cap and wires.

Thanks for any help
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Old 05-25-2009, 11:58 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You should have seen a spark if you grounded the plug correctly. You held the threaded part of the plug against the engine block? (I don't know what the "ground nut" is. You don't have to hold the plug on the negative battery terminal.) Wires or distributor are good suspects. It could be other parts of the distributor than the cap. It could even be a bad plug. You can try the plug on the other plug wires. There is a way to check the coil by looking for a spark, but I myself haven't done that on an AE92. What you did is OK for an old car like the AE92. I wouldn't do things this way on a modern car with their fancy electronics unless I checked the service manual. first. A less invasive test is to hook the inductive coupling of a timing light around the plug wire while the plug is still installed in the engine. See it the timing light comes on.
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Old 05-26-2009, 06:15 AM   #3 (permalink)
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No Spark

I didn't hold the threaded part against the engine block only the end of the spark plug. Check number 1 and number 4 and no spark.
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Old 05-26-2009, 10:13 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Go to autozone or advance and get a small tube of dielectric grease. Remove each wire (one at a time) from distributor cap and put a small dab of this grease on metal terminal of plug wire and reinsert cable back in cap. Do this for all four wires. This makes for a better connection. If this doesn't help you may need to replace cap/rotor/wires.
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Old 05-26-2009, 06:25 PM   #5 (permalink)
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It might make a more corrosion resistant connection, but dielectric grease is an insulator. I don't know what temperatures it can stand. People put it on the "check connector" in the engine compartment that is used during tune-ups. I tried it once on battery terminals and it left a dark deposit that broke the connection so I had to clean the terminals.
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Old 05-26-2009, 06:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brandon22 View Post
Hello again,

Not sure if this is done right or not, but I removed the spark plug and connected it to the spark plug wire. I held the spark plug to the ground nut on the frame and had someone crank over the engine.

I didn't see anything from the spark plug. Should I have seen a spark from this.

Does this mean that I have a bad dis cap and wires.

Thanks for any help
There's an easier (IMO) way of testing the spark. You don't have to unscrew anything, just pop the wires off the plugs:

- Pull the spark plug wire off one spark plug.

- Hold the spark plug about 1/8" from the valve cover.

- Have someone crank the engine. You should see a spark jump from the end of the wires to the valve cover.

*** You can also test the coil this way. Just pop the coil wire off the distributor and hold it near the transmission or engine block.


A foolproof method that I have used is to put a finger against the end of the wire and crank the engine. You should get a small shock. It reminds you that you're alive.
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Old 05-26-2009, 06:54 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tashirosgt View Post
It might make a more corrosion resistant connection, but dielectric grease is an insulator. I don't know what temperatures it can stand. People put it on the "check connector" in the engine compartment that is used during tune-ups. I tried it once on battery terminals and it left a dark deposit that broke the connection so I had to clean the terminals.
Most dielectric grease is good to 392f/200c if I remember correctly.

The word "dielectric" expressly means "nonconductive." As you said, it will not help a problematic electrical connection. It can maintain them over time by limiting corrosion on the contact surfaces but that is all.

It can be used on spark plugs but it won't help in this case.
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Old 05-27-2009, 05:32 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Don't know,

I have replaced the dis cap and rotor and still nothing. Checked all fuses and still nothing.

I'm lost
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Old 05-27-2009, 08:31 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Did you recheck the wires to see if you were getting spark.

I suppose your timing belt could have broken. Try cranking the car with the distributor cap off and see if it spins.
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Old 05-27-2009, 09:03 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I cranked the car and watch the shaft spin.

I checked again and no spark.

I really don't know what next to check.

Any ideas
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Old 05-28-2009, 04:48 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Broke down

Well I finally broke down and took the car to the hospital.

They told me that the timing belt broke - $520.00 to repair.
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Old 05-28-2009, 05:15 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brandon22 View Post
I cranked the car and watch the shaft spin.
Quote:
Originally Posted by brandon22 View Post
Well I finally broke down and took the car to the hospital.

They told me that the timing belt broke - $520.00 to repair.
I think these two statements aren't compatible. If the distributor shaft is turning, the timing belt must be intact (even if the timing is horribly off).
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Old 05-29-2009, 12:28 AM   #13 (permalink)
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You said you replaced the cap and rotor yourself... did you do it properly?
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Old 06-04-2009, 04:59 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Update

I got my car back from the mech, and the timing belt had slipped. The belt was in perfect condition so they just put it back on.

Unfortuatelly it cost me the same.

Thanks for all the suggestions and help
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