How-To: Install a coolant flushing kit and flush the coolant

[Ghostyman]

Here's how to flush out your coolant and install a coolant flush kit.

1. Get a coolant flush kit. I've paid between $3.50 and $4.50 for them. Pretty cheap for a permanent fixture.





2. Locate the proper heater hose. Per the instructions on the package, I used this one (where the 'T' is resting). Cut the hose approximately where the T is sitting and insert the T inline in the hose. Use the included hose clamps but don't over-tighten.




3. Attach the backflow valve and a garden hose to the T. Remove the radiator cap and turn the hose on to make sure that water is pushed out of the radiator. You can try using the included spill redirector but mine hasn't fit in any radiator I've tried.




4. Flush out the cooling system by running water through it until it comes out clear. Be careful with any spilled anti-freeze. Make sure the temperature selector is set on high.




5. Refill coolant. Your choice of fluids.

Distilled water is always recommended (even by me), but the "dangers" of using tap water are immensely overstated. I use tap water the vast majority of the time. If you are going to use distilled water, you are probably best off buying pre-mixed coolant and just using that.



Other links:

How-To: Disable the door chime - How-To: Disable the door chime

[tashirosgt]

I'll have to try your method if I get brave enough to cut my hose. Is there a kit with a metal t-fitting instead of a plastic one?

What's the equipment on the bracket attached to your drivers side strut mount ?

[Ghostyman]

Originally Posted by tashirosgt

I'll have to try your method if I get brave enough to cut my hose. Is there a kit with a metal t-fitting instead of a plastic one?

There are no metal kits that I'm aware of but you might find something at a plumbing supply shop. You need a 3/4-3/4" coupler that tees to a GHT male end.

Alternatively, you can pull the plastic T out when you are done and put a piece of 3/4" copper pipe in it's place. When you want to flush the coolant again, just pop the copper pipe out and put the T in its place.

The third option is what I'm doing on my MR2 because I don't want to cut any hoses if I can avoid it. In this case, I'm attaching a short length of 3/4" hose to one end of the T. When I want to flush the coolant, I can just pop one end of a heater hose off and plug it into the unused side of the T. Then I put the short length of hose from the other leg to wherever the heater hose plugs in. This way, it's a temporary installation, I can flush from any hose termination point, and I've avoided creating a potential leak point in my frunk that could harm my amplifier.

BTW, the Prestone kit is the exact same as the Victor kit pictured above. The packaging is the same even, just the images are different. I've used them both and they really are identical.

Originally Posted by tashirosgt

What's the equipment on the bracket attached to your drivers side strut mount ?

It's a vacuum-operated cruise control system. It doesn't currently work but I haven't spent much/any time troubleshooting it. I believe it's stock but I don't recall seeing it on other AE92s and people always ask what it is....

[tashirosgt]

I understand the instruction to turn the heat selector all the way up means that in the passenger compartment I slide the knob on the heater all the way to the hottest setting. Right?

How does the question of whether the thermometer is letting coolant flow into the engne block relate to this type of flush? If the thermostat was open before you turn the hose on, won't the cold water from the hose cause it to close? I suppose whatever is in the engine block gets diluted by the new coolant once the car is run normally. So perhaps the block doesn't need to be flushed with the hose.

[Donald]

I have to be honest. Coolant flushing is something I have neglected, usually because for one reason or another I break into the system and just put in new coolant.

I have just learnt how much damage old coolant or incorrect mixture can do to a cylinder head.
I am currently doing a minor top end rebuild on a '91 AE92 sedan that I bought for $500 with a blown head gasket.
I pulled the head off and started cleaning off the gasket remnants, and discovered what I thought were clogged water passages in the head. I came to this conclusion because they ligned up with openings in the head gasket.

I tried cleaning out these water passages which turned out to be three spots of sevier corrosion.
They are about 1/4" deep.

A machine shop said that they could weld/fill the holes and shave the head, but after waiting for two weeks for their welder, who has been out of town all this time, I decided to find a head at the junk yard.

Anyway, my point is that two machine shops, and a Toyots specialist all tell me that the corrosion is the result of deteriorated coolant. I have never seen anything like this before, and am now a deciple of the coolant system flush. I will be practicing it regularly from now on.

[Createdtoburn]

Shit, when I need to flush the coolant in my car I just use the coolant flushing machine at my work haha. But yeah you should always keep a mix for 50/50 distilled water/pure coolant. You gotta remember that even though water by it self carries heat better, it also wont be long before causing rust/corrosion inside the engine block/radiator and the whole point of coolant is not only to prevent that, but also because it burns at a higher temperature and freezes at a lower temperature. When water gets too hot it evaporates and will find it's way out, and if not kept an eye on, you'll have heating issues hah.

Never tried this method of coolant flushing but I've seen the kit before, I thought it was kinda funny actually, but guess if it works it works. haha

[Ghostyman]

One thing that I have done (and don't officially recommend although I've seen no ill effects from it) is to put some CLR (Calcium, Lime, Rust remover) in the radiator. Then drive the car around for a bit to let it warm up and circulate. Then keep flushing until you don't get any of the CLR foam. I used this method to de-rust the cooling system of a Geo Storm and it must have cleared up the heater core a fair amount because the heater started blowing much hotter air.

[Donald]

Now that I think about it. A lot of people around here have well water, so that could be a major contributing factor in the corrosion I encounterted.

The circled areas are the corroded spots.

[freakinbox]

I also installed a flush kit the last time my headgasket went, made life much easier. Was also SUPER easy to install. They are cheap and worth it

[toyotaspeed90]

I wouldn't necessarily say it's due to corrosion so much as people try to fix HG issues with those stupid chemicals -- think of this.... if you have a leak, why would a chemical target only the one tiny spot you have a leak? It won't.... it will be all throughout the coolant passages. I had a motor that had this done to it and it was horribly clogged.

I just pull a heater hose and hold a hose against it, letting the coolant flow through the core, back through the motor/coolant, then into a bucket under the car. Nothing to buy, nothing to cut.

I then use a Snap on vacuum lift to refill.

[elbringit]

Hey guys, I went out and bought a flush kit and some flush. Now I was wondering what order to do it in. I think I should

1.Install the flush kit
2.Add flush to radiator ?
3. Drive around with heater on for 10-15 minutes?
4. Put a hose on the flush tee and a hose in the radiator
5. turn on garden hose
6. turn on car
7. run until clear?
8. cap off system with tap water inside?

Which hose should I cut for the tee?

[friscorice88]

from the picture, the hose to cut is one of the 2 heater core hose. the heater core hoses goes directly into your firewall.

[verlaryder]

Flushing T's are a gimmick for two reasons:

1) On a properly maintained Corolla cooling system (one always fed Toyota brand coolant mixed with distilled water) there is no need to flush - ever - since that mixture will keep the insides of the cooling system immaculately clean for human lifetime (if the coolant is changed at least every 5 years).

2) On a neglected Corolla cooling system or one maintained with aftermarket coolant and/or tap water, the flushing T's will NOT remove the scale and other mineral buildups inside the system. Acids like CLR and LimeAway can help dissolve a small amount of the minerals, but they also commonly cause radiator and heater core leaks. The only real solution, therefore is a new radiator and/or heater core and manually cleaning clogged passages in the cylinder head in the case of severe mineral buildup

[freakinbox]

Originally Posted by verlaryder

Flushing T's are a gimmick for two reasons:

1) On a properly maintained Corolla cooling system (one always fed Toyota brand coolant mixed with distilled water) there is no need to flush - ever - since that mixture will keep the insides of the cooling system immaculately clean for human lifetime (if the coolant is changed at least every 5 years).

2) On a neglected Corolla cooling system or one maintained with aftermarket coolant and/or tap water, the flushing T's will NOT remove the scale and other mineral buildups inside the system. Acids like CLR and LimeAway can help dissolve a small amount of the minerals, but they also commonly cause radiator and heater core leaks. The only real solution, therefore is a new radiator and/or heater core and manually cleaning clogged passages in the cylinder head in the case of severe mineral buildup

They are good to have after a blown head gasket, since you don't want to leave that residue of oil sitting in everything. Trust me they flush out more than you'd think, of course it depends on the water pressure of the hose connected to it.

[Ghostyman]

Originally Posted by verlaryder

2) On a neglected Corolla cooling system or one maintained with aftermarket coolant and/or tap water, the flushing T's will NOT remove the scale and other mineral buildups inside the system. Acids like CLR and LimeAway can help dissolve a small amount of the minerals, but they also commonly cause radiator and heater core leaks. The only real solution, therefore is a new radiator and/or heater core and manually cleaning clogged passages in the cylinder head in the case of severe mineral buildup

Then there are the times when it doesn't "cause" leaks (more accurately, knocks look rust that was blocking an existing leak). I bought a beater Geo Storm with a clogged heater core, ran CLR through it, flushed it out until it wasn't looking rusty and it's been driving without any issue for over a year. Total cost was under $5.

Nobody's advertising this as a magic cure-all. But it has its place.