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6th Generation (1988-1992) Specific discussion of the AE92

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Old 07-27-2009, 09:31 PM   #1 (permalink)
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a matter of timing and air

Hello all,

What all needs to be set and timed specifically after removing and installing a cylinder head? my car is ALMOST there, but it only runs if i feather the gas after i ignite it, but it doesnt sound alltogether great, so... I'm thinking its to do with timing and air intake.

to reiterate,

what the crap do i need to do? what needs to be adjusted with the air intake? and why are Haynes manuals so completely useless?

until next time,

~~--Itaro
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Old 07-27-2009, 09:40 PM   #2 (permalink)
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What engine does your car have?
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Old 07-28-2009, 12:50 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Itaro View Post
Hello all,

What all needs to be set and timed specifically after removing and installing a cylinder head? my car is ALMOST there, but it only runs if i feather the gas after i ignite it, but it doesnt sound alltogether great, so... I'm thinking its to do with timing and air intake.

to reiterate,

what the crap do i need to do? what needs to be adjusted with the air intake? and why are Haynes manuals so completely useless?

until next time,

~~--Itaro
soundsl like timing. make sure you have your crank at top dead center. you can pull your number one spark plug and put a screw driver in there to make sure it's all the way at the top and there should be a mark on the engine that you can align with the crank shaft. one that's all aligned you need to make sure that your camshaft sprocket it lined up with the knock pin hole on the cam gear under the valve cover. so basically you want all your number one cylinder valves to be closed when it's at TDC. once you do that and put the timing belt back on and reset the timing by jumping te1 and te2 terminals on the diagnostic port and adjusting the distributor until your timing is 10 degrees before TDC you should be running fine

hope this helps
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Old 07-28-2009, 07:00 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I have the 4a-FE engine.

So, you are saying that I need to get it back to TDC compression stroke, stick a screwdriver in the #1 sparkplug hole and make sure that it is all the way up? and bridging e1 and t1 resets timing. got it.

how do I check and see if the camshafts were inserted properly?

thanks,
~~--Itaro
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Old 07-28-2009, 11:14 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Gen6

Quote:
Originally Posted by Itaro View Post
I have the 4a-FE engine.

So, you are saying that I need to get it back to TDC compression stroke, stick a screwdriver in the #1 sparkplug hole and make sure that it is all the way up? and bridging e1 and t1 resets timing. got it.

how do I check and see if the camshafts were inserted properly?

thanks,
~~--Itaro
well we have the same motor. it's an interference motor so both cams are connected by gears. unlike the 4aGe. so you want to look for these 2 specific marks. there are 2 per cam. you should be looking for the ones in these pictures that I posted. there are 2 timing marks and 2 installation marks. they need to line up like you see in these pictures exactly.

in these pictures the crank is at TDC! this is important.



as you can see in this picture above, the timing mark on the exhaust cam is at 9 o clock. and the timing mark on the intake cam is at 3 o clock. these need to line up when the installation marks are are at 12 o clock on both cams. now the picture below is what it should look like when you rotate the cam sprocket 360 degrees. given once you do that you are out of time. so make sure when you put the timing belt back on, your cam marks look like the picture above with the crank at TCD for no. one cylinder. this is critical. so if you rotate your cam sprocket 360 without the belt on, you will be in the intake stroke when the piston is at compression stroke. that means if you rotate the cam sprocket 360 without the belt on make sure you do it one more time to assure your valves are CLOSED when the piston is at TDC. now check out the picture below. this is what it should look like once you have rotated the cam sprocket 360 with the crank still at TDC.



I know this is all pretty confusing, but you basically want your crank at TDC while your intake and exhaust cam journals are closed. however, you want your exhaust cam journals(lobes) to be closer to pushing the valve open than the intake. or else you would end up pushing your exhaust out the intake ports and out your air filter . so as far as cam rotation you want your exhaust cam to be a little further ahead in rotation than the intake. so your exhaust cam loves for number one cylinder should be at about4 o clock and your intake about 3 o clock. make sure you alight the marks that you find on the cam gears. don't get the knock pin mark on the cam sprocket confused with the timing and installation marks on the cam gears.

hope this helps.

these pictures and information are from the toyota dealer tech manual. not the horse shit chilton's haha
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Old 07-30-2009, 12:10 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Hello all,

the car runs!~ Its... ALIVE!!!!!
but how do you fix a hunting idle? and...

are these hoses in correctly? I broke the hub (blue thing at bottom of circle) and I'm not sure I put em in right.



and, what the heck is this screw for?




Thanks,

~~--Itaro
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Last edited by Itaro; 07-30-2009 at 07:25 PM. Reason: Imageshacked the pictures
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Old 07-30-2009, 06:08 PM   #7 (permalink)
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your pictures didn't work dude. rehost them. try imageshack.us
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Old 07-30-2009, 07:26 PM   #8 (permalink)
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okay, new ones are up.
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Old 07-30-2009, 08:24 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Gen6

those hoses aren't important. that screw however is your idle adjustment screw. you turn it clockwise to up the idle rpm and counterclockwise to lower the idle rpm. so adjust that until your idle is about at 800-900 or maybe 1000rpms like my car. then if your car runs fine, then you had the black hoses connected correctly. ok hang on, i'll go take a picture of my car because we have same motor and I can tell you with a picture if you have the hoses connected correctly. one sec. ...



in this picture you can see where the vacuum hoses connect to. look at the next picture to see a close up of the blue fitting on the thermostat










so as you can see from these pictures, the hose that comes out of the top end or right side of the blue fitting goes into the throttle body and the hose that comes out of the side closest to the motor goes to the canister located under your airbox(if you have one) I don't because I have a cone filter. so in other words the hose that comes out of the farthest side from the motor on the blue fitting goes to the throttle body and the hose coming from the nipple closest to the motor goes to the charcoal canister below the airbox. if you have all this connected correctly and the throttle adjustment screw adjusted to about 800-900 rpms you should be running good.

hope this helps, i've had a couple beers so i hope this helps you get everything running

good luck bro
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Old 07-30-2009, 09:03 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Lol, your pictures arent working. Apparently, Gmail thinks the pics need to be encrypted... only someone logged into your gmail can see them! same thing happened with me.

so, i have the hoses backwards?


EDIT: where can I get a replacement Valve Cover Lug? i dropped mine in my engine compartment (somewhere between my battery) and I cant find it anywhere...
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Last edited by Itaro; 07-31-2009 at 06:56 PM.
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Old 08-06-2009, 09:39 AM   #11 (permalink)
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hey teamyoda. rehost images so's i know what ur about, man!

~~--Itaro
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Old 08-20-2009, 08:53 PM   #12 (permalink)
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THREAD CLOSED.

As it turns out, my Block cracked a fraction of a hair. it only showed when the engine ran at length...

so, thanks every... um... teamyoda!

~~--Itaro
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