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6th Generation (1988-1992) Specific discussion of the AE92

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Old 08-14-2009, 05:43 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Gen6 Better Air Intaking.

Searched and haven't found a thread on the AE92 forum similar to this so I'll make my own. These mods aim to reduce acceleration hesitation and increase the efficiency of the intake system and get some noticeable gains.

If you don't mind doing a little DIY, I did a ducting mod that works well with the intake whether it be with the stock air box or SRI in the AE92. So the story goes that I found the stock intake system to be pretty restrictive in the way it takes in air. The stock system is laid out as: intake manifold->air box->snorkel. The primary way it intakes air with the stock air box is through the snorkel. The snorkel intakes air from behind the headlight and a hole that goes somewhere underneath the car. The tip of the snorkel that intakes air behind the headlight is restrictive because of the small gap between the headlight and the bumper (it intakes some air but very little). So the solution to this problem is to use a duct to force more air into the restrictive portion of the snorkel to be used for intake. My duct takes in air from the front in the bumper section (works to bring in a bunch of cold air ) It's not my original idea because its been around for a long time. It's cheap but very effective.

Here are some pictures:


Air is taken in from the front and duct is held by zip ties.
This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.

This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image.

After adding a duct, I noticed better pickup in acceleration and overall ability to maintain speed. Since I have an auto and no tach to look at, gains were noticeable after 25mph and a big jump around 35mph (air floods in faster with more speed). I have no idea how much HP or torque was gained but it was noticeable.

results:
-ability to go up steep hills at 40mph without using much throttle.
-quick acceleration to 70MPH on the freeway.
-increase in MPG in majority residential but some freeway:
before: 220 miles on 9 gallons = 24.4MPG
after: 250 miles on 9 gallons = 27.8 MPG

price: about $9.78 for the ducting you can find at a home improvement store (I got mines from Home Depot).
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A SRI that takes in colder air eh? (combined with the ducting of course)

A month later I decided to get an SRI to see if I can also improve low end pickup and acceleration. I ended up ordering an Ebay SRI for around $35. I decided to keep the snorkel because it was effective in bringing in much needed air from the outside (better to have some outside intake air than to have all warm engine intake air). I was honestly surprised by the quality of the cone filter itself although the quality of the piping wasn't the best but it'll work. After driving around a bit with the SRI I noticed that acceleration in the low end was decent but something was lacking. After the initial drive, I decided to pop the hood up and check the intake piping and found that it was pretty hot to the touch (noticeably hotter than the stock air box ever got, probably because of difference in materials ie, metal vs plastic). I decided I needed to do some modifications to the short ram setup to decrease the warming of the intake piping and its subsequent warming of intake air.

I decided to build a heat shield out of metal and use some thermal insulation wrapping to shield it from the warm engine bay. With a quick trip to Home Depot I found some sheet metal with the perfect size (8x11 I believe) and some thermal insulation wrap for about $10.89 total. I got to work and wrapped my whole intake piping with insulation material and on one side of my make-shift heat shield (engine side of the heat shield is unwrapped so it can reflect heat back, intake side is insulated from the engine side so heat doesn't transgress through).

With the heat shield and wrapping done, I used my remaining air ducting material I had left over to mate it to the end of the snorkel (where it used to mate to the stock air box) open top portion of the cone filter.

Here's some pictures:




price: $10.89 for heat shield and thermal wrap (only had 30ft roll available for $9.60), $35 for SRI = $45.89.

results with SRI w/ducting:
-louder
-better low end pickup and acceleration
-ducting results remain
-can accelerate to 80MPH quickly with little effort

results with thermal wrapping and heat shield to SRI:
-more consistent pickup and acceleration on the low end.
-overall lower intake piping temperature (does not get warm)

Note: moisture isn't an issue with with the ducting, drove through heavy rain with puddles and everything and it's good and dry.

Last edited by lostnkonfused; 08-14-2009 at 06:05 AM.
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Old 08-14-2009, 02:37 PM   #2 (permalink)
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admins if your out there, this seems pretty sticky worthy to me, great DIY. Thanks i def want to try this
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Old 08-14-2009, 03:02 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The SRI without ducting is already louder either way, I doubt it changes anything with regards to sound. I do like the duct idea though, I've thought of this before as I had a lot of ducting at my dads.
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Old 08-14-2009, 03:26 PM   #4 (permalink)
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i was looking under the hood and i was thinking wow it gets really narrow between the radiator and headlight mount how can that tube fit between there. You pictures were helpful but restricting, so does the tube go all the way from the front bumper to the intake snorkel part or is disconnected at parts. Heres what i am talking about (in the pic) shouldn't the tube be connected all the way but it seems way to narrow in some parts
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Old 08-14-2009, 04:35 PM   #5 (permalink)
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It's going to be an open space between the two, so it's disconnected. The end of the snorkel is restrictive behind the headlight so the idea is to aim the duct into that area to force a bunch of air into it so the snorkel can catch it. It would have been ideal to be able to use a duct and directly connect it but the reality is that it's just too narrow. However, the narrowness of that section serves as a pretty good funnel to the snorkel instead and directs the air to flood that area.
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Old 08-14-2009, 04:54 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I just cut the bottem of the air box and removed the whole snorkel thing, I can still clip in a filter. I also left one bolt hole so I could still bolt it down without it flopping everywhere.

I don't think the extravagant ducting would really do much to help.... warm air helps fuel atomize. Warm to the touch won't hurt. Also you would be getting cold air while moving anyways.

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Old 08-14-2009, 06:52 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canadianae92 View Post
.... warm air helps fuel atomize.
Fuel injectors do the atomizing in EFI systems.

Something else you might consider. There is a guy (Daox), on the Tercel Forum and Tercelonline.com, that makes intake insulators out of phenolic for Tercels and Paseos. His idea (which makes a lot of sence to me) is that by isolating the intake from the head, you reduce the temperature of the intake, therefore reducing the temprarture of intake air. I don't know if he has any for the Corollas.

Toyota rerouted the coolant flow in the last generation 4A-FE and 7A-FE to cool the head and intake first for that same reason.

Search the Tercel forum for "Intake insulator"
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Old 08-14-2009, 06:54 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canadianae92 View Post
I just cut the bottem of the air box and removed the whole snorkel thing, I can still clip in a filter. I also left one bolt hole so I could still bolt it down without it flopping everywhere.

I don't think the extravagant ducting would really do much to help.... warm air helps fuel atomize. Warm to the touch won't hurt. Also you would be getting cold air while moving anyways.
The issue is that the stock intake system is pretty starved for air by itself and the ducting helps to bring more air into the system. Its true that warm air helps to atomize the fuel but what you want is to have more cooler denser air enter the intake system first so it can be used. Atomization will still occur through the intake manifold which is warm enough to heat the air and provide good combustion, while at the same time there will also be a higher volume of air that can be used because there is less starvation of air intake. Allowing more air into the intake system provides greater efficiency by curbing the starvation that causes hesitation in acceleration.

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Old 08-14-2009, 08:07 PM   #9 (permalink)
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thanks donald the thought of injectors didnt even enter my mind for some reason lol

cold air is good no argument there

I don't know the extent of how much more air helps at full throttle because from what I know the stock 4age ecu has a set map and ignores the airflow meter at full throttle. I don't think the stock manifold would flow enough for it to lean out though lol. I'm not sure about 4afe/7a though. For a bit more fuel change fpr/injectors? Maybe there is a 4afe head that flows better than the rest? Maybe theres lots of improvement to be had from the stock internals? just some thoughts if you're lookin for power from stock internals.

Maybe someone knows more specifics on the 4afe...? Donald? Lol. From it what he said it sounds like toyota put some work into improving the later 7/4AFE series.

Last edited by canadianae92; 08-14-2009 at 08:12 PM.
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Old 08-14-2009, 09:11 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canadianae92 View Post
thanks donald the thought of injectors didnt even enter my mind for some reason lol

cold air is good no argument there

I don't know the extent of how much more air helps at full throttle because from what I know the stock 4age ecu has a set map and ignores the airflow meter at full throttle. I don't think the stock manifold would flow enough for it to lean out though lol. I'm not sure about 4afe/7a though. For a bit more fuel change fpr/injectors? Maybe there is a 4afe head that flows better than the rest? Maybe theres lots of improvement to be had from the stock internals? just some thoughts if you're lookin for power from stock internals.

Maybe someone knows more specifics on the 4afe...? Donald? Lol. From it what he said it sounds like toyota put some work into improving the later 7/4AFE series.
Yes. Cold air is good.
The changes that Toyota did were more for bottom end torque and economy improvements than top end, I think. They still had narrow intake tracts.
I don't think it amounted to a whole lot of anything, but they were making incremental gains.

Read here.
http://www.toyoland.com/engines/4A-F.html

I was looking for the post where Daox did the tests on his intake insulator to put a link on here, but couldn't find it. I believe it was on Tercelonline.com.
I'll keep searching.

I bought one for my Tercel, but never got around to installing it before I swapped the car for a pickup truck, so I can't say if it works.
I wanted to get a baseline dyno teas on my 7A-FE engine before I did any mods like that, but the only guy in the area with a dyno died, and I believe the Government siezed his equipment because of back taxes. Next nearest is in Charlotte, 85 miles away.
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