im wondering how hard it is to fix the axle and the wheel bearing on a 1991 toyota corolla dx? is it something i can do myself? the shops quoted me 700 for both jobs. thanks
It's fairly simple for the axle...
1. Remove lugnuts/ wheel
2. Remove axle nut
3. Remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts
4. Maneuver knuckle to pull axle out of knuckle
5. Pull axle out of trans/ diff
For the bearing, all of the above except #5, plus:
6. Remove lower balljoint-to-control arm nuts
7. Knuckle should come right out (w/ the ball joint still attached of course)
8. Remove lock ring washer from behind the wheel bearing
9. Push bearing out through back of knuckle
I think I may be missing something in the taking the bearing out process. For ease, I suggest using a bearing press.
Bearings, by itself, run about $20. Axles are up to $50.
It's fairly simple for the axle...
1. Remove lugnuts/ wheel
2. Remove axle nut
3. Remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts
4. Maneuver knuckle to pull axle out of knuckle
5. Pull axle out of trans/ diff
For the bearing, all of the above except #5, plus:
6. Remove lower balljoint-to-control arm nuts
7. Knuckle should come right out (w/ the ball joint still attached of course)
8. Remove lock ring washer from behind the wheel bearing
9. Push bearing out through back of knuckle
I think I may be missing something in the taking the bearing out process. For ease, I suggest using a bearing press.
Bearings, by itself, run about $20. Axles are up to $50.
I would loosen the axle nut before you lift the car, it's on pretty tight and will just spin if it's in the air.
also, you have to take the caliper off the knuckle too before you take it off.
the axle nut is 30mm
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'01 Impreza 2.5 RS - Mud flaps, skid plates, Gravel Dampers
'89 RX-7 TurboII - Megasquirt-3 - 270 rwhp
'89 Corolla SR5 - 4AGE ST 20V 6spd LSD, Megasquirt II, Koni Race Dampers + GroundControls + camber plates F/R, GT-S Rear brakes
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could i get a bearing press at a local auto store? ill check on that. thanks guy. greatly appreciate it. im a broke ass college student and can't afford to have anything fixed at the auto shop. im going to need experience on how to do all this myself so i guess ill find out the hard way
caliper can stay on.... rarely does the hose have to come off..... if you're good you can get the axle out when leaving the calipers...
that being said, I always say bleeding brake lines is a good idea.....
depending on how long the bearing has been bad, you may just want to replace the entire hub..... once they're bad for even a short bit the hub will warp and you'll find yourself replacing bearings all the time.
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1) 2004 IS300 Manual/LSD/Sportdesign 2) 2010 Corolla S 5 speed 3) 1986 MR2 "MK1.22" 5sfe/s54 swap 3) 1995 Ford Explorer 4x4, TT/AAL/custom shackle lift, 31"s
For the wheel bearings you will need a special puller if you replace the inner race that attaches to the hub shaft.
If it is in good condition, don't pull it, just reuse it.
Why are you replacing the bearings?
If they aren't making noise or loose. don't mess with them. It isn't worth the effort as preventative manitenance.
I have done a couple, but only beacuse they were junk yard parts that had been exposed to the elements and were rusty.
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'88 Corolla, AE92 SR-5, 7A-FE swap/GT-S suspension
'87 Corolla, AE82 FX-16, 4A-GZE swap (autocrosser)
'03 Tundra 4X4 Access Cab, (FX tow vehicle/Home Depot runner)
Modification: Changing something to what you thought it should have been from the start!
For the wheel bearings you will need a special puller if you replace the inner race that attaches to the hub shaft.
If it is in good condition, don't pull it, just reuse it.
Why are you replacing the bearings?
If they aren't making noise or loose. don't mess with them. It isn't worth the effort as preventative manitenance.
I have done a couple, but only beacuse they were junk yard parts that had been exposed to the elements and were rusty.
well my wheel bearings are bad. i lifted the passenger side up and shook the wheel. it shook a bit but i guess it's better to replace now. the axle im not sure if it makes a noise if the boot is ripped. there is a noise (no clicking or clunking) noise. it's almost like a helicopter blades in motion noise type. i think it's the wheel bearing. could it be a transaxle? i might have to bring it into a shop to take a look. i dont want to waste money and take any guesses.
I'm not sure of how far symptoms go for bad transaxles... But when my diff gears were in the process of getting screwed, turns would sound like bad CVs and/ or something trying to lock the inner radius turning tire. But when the car is lifted, put into drive and steering wheel completely turned, no sound. Eventually, the diffs locked up. Spider gears were caught. My friends V6 explorer couldn't even push my car and ended up climbing my rear bumper.
Spin the wheel when you have it lifted and listen for sounds. The worse the bearing are, the louder the sound. It's usually like a metal-to-metal scraping sound. Whizzing kind of sound when in it's early fucking-up stage.
i need help asap! i got the axle in but after putting it to drive it clicks! when i put the axle in, do i have to hear a sound to make sure that it's in correctly? nothin's working at this point and the car ain't moving. when it's in drive or reverse it'll just click or grind. help!
i need help asap! i got the axle in but after putting it to drive it clicks! when i put the axle in, do i have to hear a sound to make sure that it's in correctly? nothin's working at this point and the car ain't moving. when it's in drive or reverse it'll just click or grind. help!
Sounds like you didn't get the axle all the way in.
You need to take the nut off the end, pull the axle out of the hub, run the nut onto the axle threads, or put a piece of wood (2X4) against the end, then drive it in with one sharp blow from a HEAVY hammer.
You might probably need some extra hands to hold the axle while you wack it.
Then again, it might just go in with a slight tap.
The thing though, is you need to have the CV joints compressed all the way so the blow from the hammer is not lost in the compression.
Oh! If the wheel wobbles when you have it off the ground, it could be that the axle end nut is not tight enough. When you put it back together make sure that you torque it correctly.
I stick a #2 phillips screwdriver through the viewing hole in the caliper through the vanes in the middle of the brake rotor, to hold the axle while I torque the nut.
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'88 Corolla, AE92 SR-5, 7A-FE swap/GT-S suspension
'87 Corolla, AE82 FX-16, 4A-GZE swap (autocrosser)
'03 Tundra 4X4 Access Cab, (FX tow vehicle/Home Depot runner)
Modification: Changing something to what you thought it should have been from the start!
also, when you rpleace bearings, it's better, easier, and cheap to have a machine shop pres them in and out,, if you buy the bearings from a parts store with the machine shop, it's usually very cheap.. and it's too damned hard to do this at home without a press.. just make sure you have enough grease in b efore you put the parts back ont he car.. and make sure it is the proper type of grease and hight temp... moly grease is good..
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1989 Toyota Corolla SR5, Carb.
1993 Camry LE
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