1992 Geo Prism with 4AFE and 3 speed auto - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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6th Generation (1988-1992) Specific discussion of the AE92

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Old 09-03-2009, 08:14 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Talking 1992 Geo Prism with 4AFE and 3 speed auto

I just bought a 1992 Geo Prism with 248k miles on it for $500 to use to drive to work and leave my other car parked in the garage. It has the 3 speed auto (what is the trans model code?). The car runs terrific but is a little thumpy when idling! I was very surprised since the only maintenance the car has had in the last 100k was oil changes, a half shaft, and an alternator.

The issues:
Original timing belt, yikes! Anyone used the kit off Ebay that comes with belt, tensioner, water pump/gasket, and cam and front seals? $60

Original plug wires and cap/rotor - needs valve cover gasket set with spark plug seals (they are flooded LOL), I think I will fix this today with the fel-pro kit and some Autolite plugs.

Original transmission fluid! Do I dare change it? I was told by a few to just pull the drain plug and refill with whatever amount has drained out. Do this every 2 weeks or so until it's all red again. I may drain/refill today if I have time.

How do I get to the differential fill plug. Its in a bad spot I hear.

Just found that it has the original NGK factory spark plugs in it w/248k miles. The plug gap was rotted open to .090. LMAO!

Last edited by JasonK94Z; 09-03-2009 at 10:31 AM.
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Old 09-03-2009, 05:22 PM   #2 (permalink)
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trans code is the A131L. I dont know about changing the oil, I'd say if there isn't any transmission issues right now, just leave it be. if you would need to fill the differential, the fill plug is on the backside facing the firewall. IIRC I couldn't get to it from underneath easily because of a crossmember, but I think I took a box wrench and after some serious pushing(I'm a real skinny guy) I got it off. To fill you'll have to get some sort of little syphon pump and snake a hose into the hole. It makes it easier to have two people for this.
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Old 09-03-2009, 08:18 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobMilkshakes View Post
trans code is the A131L. I dont know about changing the oil, I'd say if there isn't any transmission issues right now, just leave it be. if you would need to fill the differential, the fill plug is on the backside facing the firewall. IIRC I couldn't get to it from underneath easily because of a crossmember, but I think I took a box wrench and after some serious pushing(I'm a real skinny guy) I got it off. To fill you'll have to get some sort of little syphon pump and snake a hose into the hole. It makes it easier to have two people for this.
shops typicaly fill through the dipstick tube..... with the right funnel it shouldn't be difficult....

to drain it, if you want, just pull the pan.


give it a tune up.... do plugs, wires, cap & rotor....

these engines aren't interference motors.... I would use the ebay kit if I had it in my hands, but I would ditch the water pump for something better.....
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Old 09-03-2009, 08:36 PM   #4 (permalink)
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the dipstick tube and pulling the pan would work for the transmission fluid, but there is seperate drain/fill holes for the diff as well as that is a contained unit. I found out the hard way.
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Old 09-04-2009, 04:43 AM   #5 (permalink)
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If you change tranny fluid drop the pan and clean the magnets inside that trap the small particles. The differential fill is a pain cause the plug is on the back side. I used a long length of plastic tubing and small funnel to refill and it is a slow process. I would stick with NGK or ND spark plugs when you replace them.
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Old 09-04-2009, 05:01 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Had that setup in a 91 Corolla, almost exact parts replaced{half shaft etc}.
The setup could probably run forever. Drop the AT pan & clean it.
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Old 09-04-2009, 05:45 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I would only drain and refill the tranny once every six months. More frequently than that might remove the varnish that has built up over time, too quickly. That can open up gaps between internal seals and the housings causing operating pressure to drop, resulting in the pistons not clamping up the clutches hard enough, causing it to start slipping.

Don't pull the pan yet.

Do one drain and refill now, and in six months do another drain and refill with a 50/50 mix of Lucas transmission treatment and tranny fluid (shouild be about 2 quarts to refill). That will help the seals to maintain whatever flexibility they still have.

At the third refill pull the pan and clean the magnets, and refill using the same 50/50 mix of tranny fluid and Lucas treatment.

The Lucas is very thick, so mix it with the fluid before you put it in, or you will be standing there for quite a while.
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Modification: Changing something to what you thought it should have been from the start!

Last edited by Donald; 09-04-2009 at 03:43 PM.
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Old 09-04-2009, 02:27 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I think I will drain and refill the trans today after work. I'm scared sh*tless though. The last thing I want to do is have to swap a trans on a $500 car LOL!!
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Old 09-04-2009, 03:40 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I am revising my previous advice.
Go ahead and put in the Lucas additive with the first drain and refill.
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Modification: Changing something to what you thought it should have been from the start!
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Old 09-04-2009, 07:10 PM   #10 (permalink)
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What does the additive do? Has anyone on here used it with any positive results?
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Old 09-04-2009, 07:24 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Dropping pan,cleaning magnets and pan and replacing gasket and refilling is all you should need to do. If it shifts alright after that then repeat the same procedure yearly.
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Old 09-06-2009, 11:43 AM   #12 (permalink)
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just drain and refill with your choice of dexronII compatible transmission fluid every 15-30k miles. do a few short changes (3-5k miles) to remove the old fluid. drop the pan if you'd like to inspect for excess debris or metal shavings and to clean the magnets/filter.
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Old 09-06-2009, 06:28 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I would def pull the pan off and clean it out and clean the magnets. I change my trans fluid and diff fluid once a year on my 92, but i have a lift and that makes it much easier. i have seen too many of these cars with fried differentials because people let them run out of fluid. if you want to flush your trans then this is how to do it
1. pull the trans pan and clean it out, change the screen, intall the pan.
2. pull the cooler lines off the radiator and place them in a container (i use 1 gal washer fluid jugs, And only one is gonna fill up)
3. Fill the trans with 4 qts of fluid. Open 4 more and have them ready
4. Have someone start the car, watch which jug is filling, and when it starts pumping start pouring your other 4 qts in your trans
5. when your jug gets near full shut the engine off.
6. reconnect your cooler lines and start the car and set the fluid level to specs

this flushes the fluid out of the torque converter without having to change your fluid multiple times. I do this everyday for a living on all kinds of cars and have never lost a transmission doing it.
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Old 09-06-2009, 07:24 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonK94Z View Post
What does the additive do? Has anyone on here used it with any positive results?
I have used it with good results on my V6 Camry. It reduced slippage and made for more positive shifts.
It was a junk yard transmission that was slipping. Guy at the auto parts shop recommended it so I tried it. It didn't work any miracles, but it made quite a difference. The transmission still slipped, but felt a lot better. It lasted about 6 years before finally dieing.
I was able to out drag my son in his Integra with that tranny.
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Modification: Changing something to what you thought it should have been from the start!

Last edited by Donald; 09-06-2009 at 07:26 PM.
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Old 11-22-2009, 02:36 PM   #15 (permalink)
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spelick: i would like to change the fluid in my a131L differential. the filler plug looks like it takes a hexagon wrench. is that correct and if so what size. i suspect my differential has very little fluid left in it. thanks for your help. houndog10
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