Helping a budy get his car on the road again: He needs a new clutch.
I'm going to buy a service manual, but until then I'd like to get an idea of the amount of work and special tools requried to do this work. Specifically:
- Do we remove the transmission or the engine to replace the clutch, including the flywheel?
- Are there any special tools we'll need to do this work?
- Is the trans light enough for two guys to muscle it out/in without a trans jack?
- Are there any "gotchas" involved that we should be aware of?
- How much time do you think this would take?
Thanks!
(please feel free to add your two cents beyond these questions!
there is a mount between motor & trans in the middle of the trans.... there is a plastic cap covering the bolts... you won't see them unless you pull the cap.
you will need something to hold the end of the motor up as there is only 1 motor mount and 4 trans mounts.
no real special tools required..... trans isn't too heavy, about 70lbs or so
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1) 2004 IS300 Manual/LSD/Sportdesign 2) 2010 Corolla S 5 speed 3) 1986 MR2 "MK1.22" 5sfe/s54 swap 3) 1995 Ford Explorer 4x4, TT/AAL/custom shackle lift, 31"s
I can lift the transaxle on my own... I lifted the motor with a hoist because if I remember right you have to take out the front cross member?(dont remember) unbolt hubs from control arms and remove half axles
ive forgotten a lot of what was involved in words now but make sure you have a calibrated torque wrench and torque everything to spec, use anti seize or the recommended lubricants on bolt thread
LIGHTLY grease the clutch forks pivot points and replace the the release bearing and lightly grease its inside, and its very important to torque the flywheel and pressure plate to spec....
the front, center, and rear trans mounts are all bolted to the cross member, so it might be easier just to take that out, you don't have to though.
you also have to unhook the shift linkages, the speedo cable, wiring clips that go into the transmission, axles, and the slave cylinder.
after that you should just be able to wrestle it out. that should be it, but I've only taken the transmission off with the engine outside of the car so I could be forgetting something.
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Just finished the clutch in my coupe. I sure wouldn't call it easy! I ended up removing the entire suspension subframe to get the center crossmember off, which was on top of it in the back. I already had the ball joints off since they were shot. It's 8 big bolts, and the two long ones are piss tight. Helps to have a nice air ratchet. I got the transaxle out and in with a floor jack, but it was tricky. A transmission jack would be nice. Be sure to line up the disc as close as possible before tightening the clutch bolts. I used the outside edge of the flywheel surface, you can see it thru the gap between the clutch and flywheel. Since there's no pilot bearing, the alignment tool that came with the clutch was useless. I used an engine crane to hold the motor. Nice because you can raise and lower the motor easily. Good luck!
We had the engine on one mount and the hoist so tat we could pivot it away if I remember correctly. Then my brother and I laid under the transmission supporting it while my dad unbolted everything(only reason it took two of us to do it is because my dad was taking a lon time unbolting the transmission). With then dropped the transmission onto my brothers chest and then plopped it onto some cardboard and slid it out fro under the car. Piece of cake the thing only weight something like 80 pounds, but it is an awkward shape when lifting so have a person keep it settled so the person with the muscles can do their thing.
I am pretty sure that you have to pull the subframe. Once you get into a rhythm it is not hard at all.
I'm changing out the Auto tranny in my 90 corolla and need some input from you guys.
I can't get the rear bolts on the center crossmember out to pull the whole beam out...any suggestions?
How do I undo the halfshafts?
I have everything else disconnected, including the torque converter bolts on the pass side of the trans. Now I just take off the upper motor mount on the trans and remove the bolts holding the trans to the engine?
You have to remove the entire suspension subframe (8 big-ass bolts) and unbolt the ball joints from it before you can drop that center subframe. Two of the bolts are bigger and longer and are PISS tight. Get an air ratchet or electric impact wrench if you can. My book shows some 'rollas don't have the large subframe, but if your center beam is above it in back, it has to come out. No way 'round it. Be sure to support the engine with an engine crane or block it up.
With the ball joints unbolted, you can snap the halfshafts out of the differential with a large prybar. Drain the differential oil first (it's separate from the tranny oil on automatics). Else it will be all over the floor anyway soon as you pull the shafts. You need to get the left shaft completely out of the transaxle. The right one you can just pop loose and let it come out as you drop the transaxle down. With the ball joints loose you can swing the spindle out enough to get the left axle out of the transaxle.
My applogies for waiting so long to say "thank you" for your help with this! I really appreciated your assistance, but he chose to sell th car rather than fix it since he's leaving the country soon.
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