Hey guys, just thought id post this for anyone looking for a cheap way of doing a short shifter, not just for the AE92 but pretty much anycar, plus the ones that you can buy aftermarket dont have an adjustable throw, I simply CUT an approx. 3" chuck out of the top of the shifter and welded the two pieces back together (therefore saving the threads on the top of the shifter)Then i CUT the bottom of the shifter ...I then took the small chunk of the bottom post and DRILLED and TAPPED a #10-32 UNF thread in it. I then took the main body and DRILLED and TAPPED a #10-32 UNF thread into the top part of the bottom post...I then took a#10-32 UNF bolt and CUT the head off of it and re-threaded the end of the bolt where the head used to be (as to make it a stud)I then threaded the stud into the bottom post and added some nuts to lock everything tight, the pictures show only two nuts, but i actually fill the empty space of the threaded stud with nuts as to resist bending, although there is minimal.Right now i have it set to 1/2" (which is half inch longer on the bottom post) ... This results in a 3" throw from 1st to 2nd on top, compared to my previous shifter which was just a stock shifter with the top hacked off which had a 4" throw from 1st to 2nd... I can actually really feel the difference, it feels like a whole new carThere you go, a DIY adjustable throw short shifter, just gotta have minimal shop tools to accomplish. -Hacksaw-Drill-Drill bits-Taps -Welder (only if you want to keep the threads, in which you could probably use a coupling of some sort if a welder is not available)
Yep, that's definitely a way to do it. Unfortunately many don't have the welding skill necessary. (I don't like the threaded stud idea) One advantage with this method is that the shifter will be pointed in the right direction unlike the TRD one. (unless you have a RHD car)
And yes I do believe you will need to make a spacer to raise it up and cliear the floor like eage said. It should be simple to make though.
you didn't make a spacer to space up the shifter assembly to make up for the longer bottom peice?
Surprisingly, they way that i have it right now did not require a spacer, but if i wanted to shorten the throw more (ie. elongate the bottom post) i would have to throw some spacers in there...
Yep, that's definitely a way to do it. Unfortunately many don't have the welding skill necessary. (I don't like the threaded stud idea) One advantage with this method is that the shifter will be pointed in the right direction unlike the TRD one. (unless you have a RHD car)
And yes I do believe you will need to make a spacer to raise it up and cliear the floor like eage said. It should be simple to make though.
Why do you not like the threaded stud idea, it does not compromise the integrity of the bottom post, and if welded then is limited to one set throw... what is not shown in the pictures is that the gap that is between the two halfs of the bottom post is filled with extra nuts so as to resist any bending forces (bending moments) as the nuts act on each other and on the two halfs making the post nearly as strong as before, i can see what your saying if the threaded stud is exposed as the diameter of the stud alone is half the diameter of the bottom post at that point...
furthermore the bottom post is not subjected to any intense or extreme forces (or should not be anyway depending on your clutch and transmission and what type of driving it is subjected too)
"just gotta have minimal shop tools to accomplish. -Hacksaw-Drill-Drill bits-Taps -Welder (only if you want to keep the threads, in which you could probably use a coupling of some sort if a welder is not available)"
oh ... and the stud used is a UNF (fine thread), ie more threads per inch ... stronger because there is more surface area of thread in contact
LOL, I didn't mean to make you defend your ways. I'm sure it's fine. I'm just picky that way. I wouldn't do it for my car that's all.
I'm already not wanting to cut and reweld or even heat up and bend one of my short shifters so that it points to the left. I'm trying to see if the ball can be pressed off and back on in the right position. And this even after I already have one that was heated and bent (by someone else) and I know that it works fine. Yea yea, call me anal...
LOL, I didn't mean to make you defend your ways. I'm sure it's fine. I'm just picky that way. I wouldn't do it for my car that's all.
I'm already not wanting to cut and reweld or even heat up and bend one of my short shifters so that it points to the left. I'm trying to see if the ball can be pressed off and back on in the right position. And this even after I already have one that was heated and bent (by someone else) and I know that it works fine. Yea yea, call me anal...
i guess to each his own right? i just like to go with easy DIY methods instead of buying everything, as u know that gets expensive
i guess to each his own right? i just like to go with easy DIY methods instead of buying everything, as u know that gets expensive
Yea it can. I was extremely lucky to get one with the car and to find another in the junkyard. Had I not been so lucky, I'd be doing what you are did. I was just mearely saying that I preffered welding over the threaded rod approach. I do like that your way is adjustable though. Anyhow, nice to see your work.
So, this has inspired me to buy a shifter from a junkyard today and give it a shot on my celica. With the space available, I figured that by taking 3 inches from the top and adding an inch to the bottom (would need to use a spacer or some washers probably) I should reduce the throw from 7 inches stock to 3 inches.
Now I just have to hope that the shifter is not a pain to drill into.
the shifter is hard to drill into, i recommend getting a new set of high quality drill bits, also ensure proper alignment of hole as this will effect the throw
be sure to use multiple nuts and DO NOT leave the thread portion of the stud exposed at all as this will create a large weak spot on the shifter ... also, be sure to use lock tight on the threads and a lock washer as well, the last thing u want is for the nut to slowlly loosen and the bottom part to fall off while driving, that would suck
AS ALWAYS, do this at your own warning and discretion ...
yeah I was planning to do all that. Also was thinking of just buying a section of all thread instead of cutting of the head of a bolt and threading that. As well as keep the old assembly in my trunk in my bag of tools in case something snaps, which I doubt, but still....
I do have some nice new drill bits ready to go. I just need a new cutter wheel or two for my dremel as well as new bushings since mine are worn and it would be nice to replace those while in there
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