If you own an AE92, you probably can't afford to go out and buy a Porsche GT-3, or even a Lotus Elise to go club racing.
An affordable alternative to satisfy your need for speed, learn the limits of your car, and develop useful car control skills is autocross.
The best way to start, is to search for a sports car club in your area, and join up.
From my experience, the more experienced autocrossers are all too willing to share what they have learned, so just ask nicely.
Before you mess with your car, go to the SCCA website and look up the car classes and see what the restrictions are. You can find yourself at the bottom of a very competitive class with what you thought were minor modifications.
http://www.scca.com/hub.aspx?hub=3&I...0&x=050|010&~=
The next thing to do, is check out your car.
Things the tech officer at my club look for are:
*All your lug nuts must be present.
*Battery secure, and positive terminal covered.
*Solid brake feel.
*Solid steering feel.
*No excessive fluid leaks (if your car leaves a puddle on the ground, no go)
Good tires. You quickly learn that cheap all-season tires don't make for good times. You don't need to break the bank for tires, but after you have tried autocrossing a few times, and decide you want to keep at it, you will probably want to look for some good tires for the class you are running. Tires will probably be your greatest expense. I use an all season tire on the street, and have a second set of wheels and tires just for autocross. It seems expensive to do that, but my street tires don't deliver good autocross times, and my autocross tires wouldn't last long on the street.
I had been using Kuhmo tires on the street, and Falken Azenis tires for autocross only.
The Falkens have lasted about two and a half years (9 events each year).
I now use Nitto all seasons on the street and am changing to Nitto NT-01s for autocross.
It is recommended that you run about 8-10 lbs above your street tire pressure.
Good suspension is absolutely necessary. There again you don't need to break the bank. In the stock classes, all you need is good working shocks.
If your shocks are shot, I suggest you upgrade at least to a set of KYB GR-2s. If you can afford it, Koni yellow adjustables are reputed to be the best street/track shocks.
I have used K-Sport pro coil-over shocks, and found their adjustability to be very helpful in setting up my car for competition, but they don't suit me for the street. Too hard.
There again, check the rules befopre you do any modification.
Sway bars are allowed to be added in some classes. They help keep the car from leaning during cornering (body roll) and keeping all four tires gripping the pavement.
You need to know what you are doing with those, or you can throw off the balance of the car.
Stiffer rear sway bar will give you more oversteer, and a stiffer front will give you more understeer.
Oversteer is when the rear of the car wants to go wide, causing the car to want to spin around.
Understeer is when the front wants to go wide, causing the car to want to go straight.
A well balanced front wheel drive car, will want to understeer in fast sweeper corners if you are accellerating, and then want to oversteer if you lift off the throttle. Idealy the amount of understeer and oversteer should be controlable with throttle modulation (throttle steer), and not be violent enough to overwhelm your hand movements.
If your club offers an autocross school, GO TO IT!!!
If not, get a seasoned member to ride with you on the track and give you some pointers and critisizim.
) and I've driven it a few times and really liked them, next season I will be switching from Falken Azenis on the rx-7 to Kumho XSs (and they have the right size for me 275/40/17 
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i didn't like how close stock radiators get to my turbo so i have aluminum crx rad but on a really hot day on that course i'd get 3 laps in before id have to watch my temp or it would go up to 250...
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