I stopped at a stop sign a while back and it died and now there is no spark to the plugs. This is all I have checked and I know a little about mechanics but very little. I have checked the fuses and find they are all ok also. It turns over just fine. I tried a different ECM from a junk yard but who knows if that was good or not. I probably should take it to the garage but I have no job on limited budget. Can you help me out here? If the ECM is good what else could it be? Is there something in the distibuter that could be bad?
Have you done preventive maintenance and tune-ups on the car?
I'd recommend:
- pulling the distributor cap off and making sure that the rotor is still in place and the locator tab hasn't given up and allowed the rotor to freespin on the dizzy shaft (happened to me one time!)
- swap the ignition coil
- go through all of the ignition-related connectors and make sure that they're not corroded
- check ground straps from engine to chassis
- pull all four plugs, attach em to their respective cords, then confirm none of 'em have spark. If none of em have spark, it's either the coil, igniter ($$), or the ECU ($$$)
- if it's none of those, you'll have to spend some time tracing a bunch of wires to confirm +12v
When you crank the motor, does it catch at all and seem like 1 or 2 of the cylinders are firing? Or does it just turn over and not catch at all?
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1988 Toyota AE92 GT-S, Modded for Track Duty | 1997 BMW E36 M3, Mostly Stock Daily Driver | 2005 Ducati Monster with CF Termignoni Exhaust, Alternate Ride
Have you done preventive maintenance and tune-ups on the car?
I'd recommend:
- pulling the distributor cap off and making sure that the rotor is still in place and the locator tab hasn't given up and allowed the rotor to freespin on the dizzy shaft (happened to me one time!)
- swap the ignition coil
- go through all of the ignition-related connectors and make sure that they're not corroded
- check ground straps from engine to chassis
- pull all four plugs, attach em to their respective cords, then confirm none of 'em have spark. If none of em have spark, it's either the coil, igniter ($$), or the ECU ($$$)
- if it's none of those, you'll have to spend some time tracing a bunch of wires to confirm +12v
When you crank the motor, does it catch at all and seem like 1 or 2 of the cylinders are firing? Or does it just turn over and not catch at all?
I'm getting absolutely no fire at all. It's been raining like crazy here so I have not got outside to further investigate the issue. I'm thinking probably igniter but I will check the coil and ecm connections first. I bought a book on my model so I know how to do that now. Thanks for all the help.
I'm getting absolutely no fire at all. It's been raining like crazy here so I have not got outside to further investigate the issue. I'm thinking probably igniter but I will check the coil and ecm connections first. I bought a book on my model so I know how to do that now. Thanks for all the help.
before you start buying stuff make sure the timing belt didn't break. if it breaks the cams and the distributor won't spin and you won't get spark.
the way I checked mine was I just opened the oil cap and made sure the cams were spinning while someone else cranked the engine.
( I figured this out after I already replaced my igniter...)
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'01 Impreza 2.5 RS - Mud flaps, skid plates, Gravel Dampers
'89 RX-7 TurboII - Megasquirt-3 - 270 rwhp
'89 Corolla SR5 - 4AGE ST 20V 6spd LSD, Megasquirt II, Koni Race Dampers + GroundControls + camber plates F/R, GT-S Rear brakes
'81 BMW R65 For Sale: GT-S strut bar + Front GT-S koni yellows
before you start buying stuff make sure the timing belt didn't break. if it breaks the cams and the distributor won't spin and you won't get spark.
the way I checked mine was I just opened the oil cap and made sure the cams were spinning while someone else cranked the engine.
( I figured this out after I already replaced my igniter...)
You are spot on eage8. I pulled the dist. cap and the rotor don't even move while I crank it. I have the book but it sure looks like a pain to change it. Good call.
before you start buying stuff make sure the timing belt didn't break. if it breaks the cams and the distributor won't spin and you won't get spark.
the way I checked mine was I just opened the oil cap and made sure the cams were spinning while someone else cranked the engine.
( I figured this out after I already replaced my igniter...)
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmunsell
You are spot on eage8. I pulled the dist. cap and the rotor don't even move while I crank it. I have the book but it sure looks like a pain to change it. Good call.
Well I got all the parts and began work on the rig and I can't get the darn pully off the water pump. I have it all loose but the motor won't raise far enough to get it off. Also how do I lock the motor so I can get the bolt off the crankshaft to pull that pully?
The belt isn't broke just stripped of it's gears in about a 4" section.
Easy way would be to use an impact gun. Or a trick I've used on a friends Skyline was to put a breaker bar with the correct socket on the bolt and crank the car over.
Easy way would be to use an impact gun. Or a trick I've used on a friends Skyline was to put a breaker bar with the correct socket on the bolt and crank the car over.
I do have an impact wrench (not air however) so I will try that. Not sure I would want to try cranking it over while holding onto the wrench. Sounds deadly. Hehe
Not sure I would want to try cranking it over while holding onto the wrench. Sounds deadly. Hehe
that's how I did mine, but I didn't hold onto the breaker bar :-P. You just prop it against the ground and the engine will spin the bolt right out. only blip the key a little bit though, that's all you should need.
__________________
'01 Impreza 2.5 RS - Mud flaps, skid plates, Gravel Dampers
'89 RX-7 TurboII - Megasquirt-3 - 270 rwhp
'89 Corolla SR5 - 4AGE ST 20V 6spd LSD, Megasquirt II, Koni Race Dampers + GroundControls + camber plates F/R, GT-S Rear brakes
'81 BMW R65 For Sale: GT-S strut bar + Front GT-S koni yellows
Now when replacing the belt I know the bottom pulley is to be pointed at the 0 top dead now as for the top pulley I'm not sure. I notice there is a punch like mark on each cam gear (inside of valve cover) are those to point at each other?
OK this is the way I did it. I set the cranshaft pully at 0 top dead center and the camshft pull with it's knock mark straight up and down which aligned with a mark on the head just behind the pully. Sound right? I will find out because I will start it tomorrow or try anyway. I will turn it over by hand first to see if anything hits inside.
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1984 Toyota Corolla SR5
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