anyone here ever replaced an inner tie rod? I have one with a lot of slack on the drivers side. I've never replaced one because usually both sides are bad, so I just replace the whole rack and pinion. Is it easier than changing the whole rack?
update....I remembered I had a worn out rack around the shop somewhere and dug it out. I can see its not hard to change when the rack is out of the car, but changing it while its still in the car maybe a different story. Anyone done this?
I just did both of mine, in the car. It would have been a lot easier if I'd have done it before I put the transaxle back in (clutch change) but I was able to get them tight enough with a pair of vise-grips. Special tool would have been handy though. Be sure to bend the lockwasher tabs back before you try to undo the old tierod, and don't forget the new lockwasher, and bending the tab over!
Most auto parts stores have a loan-a-tool program for special tools/expensive tools. All 3 chain stores in my town do it. Found out today that none of them have the right tool. So I turned the wheel all the way to the right and used a pair of those really big channel lock pliers to grab the inner tie rod end and it screwed right off. Took about 30 minutes to replace the inner tie rod end and one lower ball joint.
You will definitely have to get your toe-in set. For a baseline, measure how long the old tierods are from the inner socket to the edge of the outer female threaded part of the outer tierod (hopefully you haven't already undone it!). Then you can duplicate this dimension when you screw the new tierods into the outer part. I set my toein with a couple strait edges clamped to the brake rotors, and measured between them, front and back. I set it at 3/64" toe-in which is what my book calls for. It actually steers very nice, and tracks straight down the road. But obviously a professional alignment is the way to go. But it'd be close enough to drive to an alignment shop. Best to leave the clamp/zip tie off the small end of the rubber boots, and let the shop install them after they set the toein. Otherwise, it's hell to turn the tierods without the boots getting all twisted up. (Been there!)
I see Harbor Freight has an inner tie-rod tool for $35. It has 7 sizes of adaptors, one being 38.6mm I believe. Could someone measure the size of a Corolla tie rod (across the flats on the inner end)? I threw both my old ones away, but would buy this tool if it will fit. Thanks.
I see Harbor Freight has an inner tie-rod tool for $35. It has 7 sizes of adaptors, one being 38.6mm I believe. Could someone measure the size of a Corolla tie rod (across the flats on the inner end)? I threw both my old ones away, but would buy this tool if it will fit. Thanks.
It's the smallest of the 7 crow foot that's included, I have a set. It works very well I haven't come across any vehicle that has a rack & pinion assembly where this tool doesn't fit on the tie rod. Don't bother spending money on Snap On, this kit from Harbor Freight works just as good.
I just changed my driver's side inner and out tie rod today on my AE92.
I see Harbor Freight has an inner tie-rod tool for $35. It has 7 sizes of adaptors, one being 38.6mm I believe. Could someone measure the size of a Corolla tie rod (across the flats on the inner end)? I threw both my old ones away, but would buy this tool if it will fit. Thanks.
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I haven't come across any vehicle that has a rack & pinion assembly where this tool doesn't fit on the tie rod. Don't bother spending money on Snap On, this kit from Harbor Freight works just as good.
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