92 corolla ECM Location? - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

usjsn · 11-13-2009, 01:34 PM

I have bad ECM in my car, so I bought the good ECM from wrecking yard..
I searched all day yesterday for a ECM location for my car... and I failed to find one.
Auto zone repair guide gave me that Its under the center console mounted on firewall.
Also called the dealer and this guy keep telling me its under the steering colum..
and called the wrecking yard and they told me its front of the shifter under the console..

if its mounted on firewall.. there is heater unit blocking the way to the firewall.. is that mean I have to take off the heater box and motor?

Please.. can somebody tell me where the ECM is?

Donald · 11-13-2009, 02:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by usjsn

IN front of the shifter under the console..

if its mounted on firewall.. there is heater unit blocking the way to the firewall.. is that mean I have to take off the heater box and motor?

Pull the forward lower wrap around panel. It is kind-a below and forward of the ashtray, towards the firewall.

You don't have to pull anything in the heater system. You need to pull the trim around the radio, the ashtray and the wrap around.

blb · 11-13-2009, 02:56 PM

First off, are you sure the ECM is bad? It is very, very rare to have an ECM failure in a '90 to '92 Corolla.

With that said, the ECM is located between shifter and the firewall. It is mounted in front of the shifter toward the firewall.

***REN69*** · 11-13-2009, 04:31 PM

So if you don't even know where it is... how do you know it's bad?

usjsn · 11-13-2009, 05:39 PM

Ahhhhhhh..
Just replaced ECU but still it doesnt start..

Here is what happend.

I changed plugs, wires, distubitor cab, rotor. it ran fine..
after about 2weeks car quit running at the intersection and never started then.
it will crank normally but there is no spark!?
so I changed coil. did not work.
went to wrecking yard and got a whole distubitor with working ignitor. did not work.
checked timing belt. it is good.
checked bettery. it is good.
so.. I thought the problem was the ECU and replaced it.. and still wont start..
rotor turns, but wont make any spark.. it has new distubitor cab,, and there is no sign of any spark at all..

and it is shooting gas..

any IDEA -?

RED91SR5 · 11-13-2009, 08:44 PM

Are you sure none of the fuses or fuse links under the hood and at the fuse box in the kick panel are not blown??

***REN69*** · 11-13-2009, 10:25 PM

Can't remember, but if the 4AFE comes with an ignitor, check it as it could be the cause.

voganni · 11-14-2009, 12:04 AM

4afe has ignitor and coil integrated in one unit. Be sure you have 12 volts at black-orange wire on distributor with key on. This wire comes straight from ign. switch, and is fed from the 30amp fuse link on the battery. So check it too. That black-orange wire also powers the fuel injectors.

Those fuse links unbolt after removing the cover below them. I almost ruined one trying like hell to pull it out!

usjsn · 11-14-2009, 12:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by voganni

4afe has ignitor and coil integrated in one unit. Be sure you have 12 volts at black-orange wire on distributor with key on. This wire comes straight from ign. switch, and is fed from the 30amp fuse link on the battery. So check it too. That black-orange wire also powers the fuel injectors.

Those fuse links unbolt after removing the cover below them. I almost ruined one trying like hell to pull it out!

HMM... I checked all the fuse but that one....... Ill make sure to check that one out.

usjsn · 11-14-2009, 07:11 PM

Man.. Now im getting tired of doing this..

Checked 30A fuse(thanks to voganni).. and it was blown, So I replaced it with new one..
and it was my last hope.
It is still not making spark....

voganni · 11-14-2009, 10:21 PM

OK, checked my wiring diagram again. That 30 amp fuse goes ONLY to the ignition switch, and feeds ONLY the distributor and fuel injectors. You may have developed a short from the fuselink to ignition switch, or from switch to distributor/injectors. If you have a voltmeter, see if theres 12 volts at the distributor (to ground) on the black-orange wire. If not, that's your problem. If so, well, let's not go there yet! Harbor Freight has a nice little digital multimeter for about 4 bucks. Well worth it. Good luck! If you PM me I can send you a pdf of my wiring diagram.