On oil pan gasket is bad idea to use RTV with the gasket, if the gasket made of rubber?
1988 Corolla
Fel-Pro - Oil Pan Gasket Set Part Number: OS30510A
It is NOT really necessary to use RTV in this circumstance.....but it won't hurt anything. I do actually use it for this myself......(I apply a thin coat to "glue" the gasket onto the bottom of the engine block, so that it will stay in place while I position the oil pan and get the bolts started). If you apply RTV any thicker than I have described above, then you need to let it cure as per the directions, before tightening the oil pan bolts (otherwise, you'll squeeze out the RTV and possibly damage the gasket in the process....and end up with leaks).
It would be a lot better idea to use some good spray adhesive on the pan and gasket so it sticks nice and well but also doesnt make gaps between the pan and surface. With the 4age engine you're actually going to have two gaskets to replace of the same type. I did my oil pan and totally forgot to adhese the gasket first and now it still leaks lol. Pointless waste of time for me. But oh well.
If you havent already started, I'm going to tell you it's not quite as easy as it looks, you have to undo a lot of shit in the way, mostly just to be able to get to the back bolts by the tranny. it's pretty annoying. Just hope you have the room to work and the tools needed!
The bolts that hold the oil pan are M6-1.00?,
some are rusty, time to take the torch out....
Would you recommend a impact gun to be used on the oil pan bolts? or do it with ratchet.
NO impact gun.....NO NO NO !!! The oil pan bolts are only installed to a very light torque, something like 48 inch-lbs (about 4 ft-lbs), or a bit more. DO NOT overtighten the oil pan bolts, as you will only ruin your new gasket(and squeeze out any RTV used) ....and cause leaks (you can, in extreme cases, even ruin the oil pan flange, with excessive torque on these bolts). So, keep that impact gun as FAR AWAY from this job as possible !!!
lol yeah impact gun is not a good idea on tiny bolts like that. But I do recommend a mini torque wrench for tightening the bolts up to the proper specification, which I'm not sure what that is.
lol yeah impact gun is not a good idea on tiny bolts like that. But I do recommend a mini torque wrench for tightening the bolts up to the proper specification, which I'm not sure what that is.
To loosen, they seem rusty.... I might use the torch on them..
So dont use the 3/8 impact to loosen them...
, to tighten I will use my trusty hand torque wrench....
Toyota FIPG oil pan sealant is superior to anything you can buy in an auto parts store. You can use it on the rubber gasket as extra insurance against leaks. I did 5 years ago and no leaks have occurred since then. A tube of Toyota FIPG oil pan sealant is roughly $17 from Toyota dealers.
Toyota FIPG oil pan sealant is superior to anything you can buy in an auto parts store. You can use it on the rubber gasket as extra insurance against leaks. I did 5 years ago and no leaks have occurred since then. A tube of Toyota FIPG oil pan sealant is roughly $17 from Toyota dealers.
Even Permatex ultra gray RTV?
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Last edited by Mr.Nutcase; 12-25-2009 at 12:23 PM.
can't really torch on a cast iron block man. just go a hair tight to break them free then back them out.
depends what kind of impact tool, there are ones MADE for small fasteners. i have a 3/8ths special impact just for doing pans and exhaust work.
Yeah, torching sounds like a bad idea all in all, especially on an oil pan. But like he said, you could use a 3/8 impact, on low settings maybe to remove the bolts. That would work ok, I think thats what I did. But yeah definitely dont tighten them that way!
I've used the product called "The Right Stuff" for many years successfully. Its the closest thing (if not the same stuff) to the factory sealant. I use it without the gasket since that's how it was done by the factory.
I never use any type of gasket other than just permatex black. once around the windage tray and once around the oil pan, then I just tighten the bolts snug and let the permatex set-up for a few days to cure properly before start up. Never had any leaks this way but I also take my time cleaning all surfaces of all leftover sealant and make sure there is no oil residue left on the block or any other sealing surface. I will spray all parts down with brake cleaner before re-assembly.
Also I am stuck with the same problem as you up here in Canada, rust. for the bolts that are very rusty I usually get away with tapping on a 3/8" socket onto them with a hammer, this works most of the time. If it does not just find the next size down.
Even if the bolt heads are rusty, those bolts should not be frozen because that area always gets a nice coating of oil.
A 1/4" rachet handle should break them all loose. If you need anything heavier than that I would be surprised, unless somebody cross threaded one.
Try taking them loose with hand tools before you put power tools to them.
Toyota does not call for a gasket on the oil pan, instead they use gasket sealant. I prefer to use a gasket.
A cork or rubber gasket I usually install dry.
If it is paper, I put grease on both sides, makes it easier to remove later and possibly reuseable.
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'88 Corolla, AE92 SR-5, 7A-FE swap/GT-S suspension
'87 Corolla, AE82 FX-16, 4A-GZE swap (autocrosser)
'03 Tundra 4X4 Access Cab, (FX tow vehicle/Home Depot runner)
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