If it is an automatic, the hardest thing is getting the crank shaft pulley bolt loose.
Beyond that, it is just tedious not hard. If it is a manual, then you will be able to get that bolt loose by puting the car in gear ahd having someone step on the brakes while you loosen the bolt with a very long 1/2" drive breaker bar and a 1/2" drive 6 point, 12mm socket.
Get the book. The Haynes manual is ok, but I highly recommend the Toyota work shop manual.
The Toyota manual is more than twice the price, but if you plan on doing your own manitenance you will appreciate it as money well spent.
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'88 Corolla, AE92 SR-5, 7A-FE swap/GT-S suspension
'87 Corolla, AE82 FX-16, 4A-GZE swap (autocrosser)
'03 Tundra 4X4 Access Cab, (FX tow vehicle/Home Depot runner)
Modification: Changing something to what you thought it should have been from the start!
If you want, I can scan the pages to replace the timing belt from the factory service manual.
On a scale of EASY 1 to 10 HARDEST, assuming you have all the tools, maybe 4. It is tedious, all the belts come off, the passenger upper engine mount has to come off, little bull shits. But then, at the end you'll have a new timing belt and PREFERABLY a new water pump and front crank oil seal.
I changed mine not that long ago, it took me two days. Mainly because I did a RUN AROUND looking for a new crank oil seal. My timing belt had snapped when I got the green light on the roads. Luckily, the 4AF is a non-interference motor.
If you have a front wheel drive 4 door sedan or station wagon then you even attempt the timing belt job, see if you can remove the water pump pulley. There's not hardly any room to fit a socket or box wrench on the four water pump pulley bolts. And even if you manage to remove those 4 bolts, there's still no room to remove the pulley!! So you'll be stuck and VERY VERY mad at all the dudes here who say there is sufficient clearance to remove the pulley (they may be right about there being enough clearance on certain sporty models they drive, but there's not enough clearance on the popular 4 door sedan or station wagon models)
The crankshaft pulley is easy to remove if you get a chain wrench from Harbor Freight ($20) to hold the pulley still while you unscrew the crank pulley bolt. Put a thick piece of rubber (like an old piece of timing belt) in the pulley groove before you wrap the chain wrench around the pulley to prevent the wrench from marring and damaging the pulley
If you have a front wheel drive 4 door sedan or station wagon then you even attempt the timing belt job, see if you can remove the water pump pulley. There's not hardly any room to fit a socket or box wrench on the four water pump pulley bolts. And even if you manage to remove those 4 bolts, there's still no room to remove the pulley!! So you'll be stuck and VERY VERY mad at all the dudes here who say there is sufficient clearance to remove the pulley (they may be right about there being enough clearance on certain sporty models they drive, but there's not enough clearance on the popular 4 door sedan or station wagon models)
You can take the four bolts off easily using a box end offset wrench or maybe available wrench adapters. But the engine mount right next to it has to be disconnected to be able to move the engine sufficient enough to move the pulley out.
Here's the images of the 4AF timing belt pages. Like I said, I suggest you change the water pump and crank oil seal as well. That way you don't have to worry about them in the future until your next timing belt change since it involves pretty much the same procedures.
The one thing about the following images, you can go around no having to remove the VALVE COVER. Just slightly pry the top timing belt cover out. It won't break. Up to you.
Thanks SCT, that does help immensely as I will be changing out the timing belt / water pump sometime soon on my All-Trac wagon! Is it fair to say the 4A-FE engine's procedures are pretty much the same as the 4A-F?
Also, what brand of water pump would you guys recommend? I got this one for Christmas (had it on my Amazon wish list), it says "made in Thailand" which makes me wonder about the quality. No customer reviews yet so I'm not sure what to think of this brand "GMB."
Same question about timing belt & tensioner... are there better brands, brands to avoid, "OEM is the only way (as long as you have the $$$)" ...?
Quote:
Originally Posted by verlaryder
The crankshaft pulley is easy to remove if you get a chain wrench from Harbor Freight ($20) to hold the pulley still while you unscrew the crank pulley bolt. Put a thick piece of rubber (like an old piece of timing belt) in the pulley groove before you wrap the chain wrench around the pulley to prevent the wrench from marring and damaging the pulley
I did this when I had to change out my Honda del Sol's water pump & timing belt. But then I found out about this tool which makes the job 5000 times easier! Is there something similar for the Toyota crank shaft pulley? (I admit, I haven't even looked at my Toyota's crank pulley, but I'm confident in myself to get the job done properly once I have the shop manual...)
Thanks SCT, that does help immensely as I will be changing out the timing belt / water pump sometime soon on my All-Trac wagon! Is it fair to say the 4A-FE engine's procedures are pretty much the same as the 4A-F?
Also, what brand of water pump would you guys recommend? I got this one for Christmas (had it on my Amazon wish list), it says "made in Thailand" which makes me wonder about the quality. No customer reviews yet so I'm not sure what to think of this brand "GMB."
Same question about timing belt & tensioner... are there better brands, brands to avoid, "OEM is the only way (as long as you have the $$$)" ...?
I did this when I had to change out my Honda del Sol's water pump & timing belt. But then I found out about this tool which makes the job 5000 times easier! Is there something similar for the Toyota crank shaft pulley? (I admit, I haven't even looked at my Toyota's crank pulley, but I'm confident in myself to get the job done properly once I have the shop manual...)
Gatorback, for timing belt
Call the dealer, see how much the belt is....
Use a good brand belt, not the cheap one..........
For the water pump I would recommend that you go new, not rebuilt
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ECT,EGR,TPS,MAF,CMP,CKP,02,
Last edited by Mr.Nutcase; 12-25-2009 at 01:03 PM.
Sorry to have to be the bad guy in this gentlemen, but Forum Rules required that I delete the photos from the FSMs in the earlier reply.
Rule #16: There will be no posts or threads containing a direct link to Toyota Factory Service Manuals. All threads about any copyrighted Toyota material will be deleted. First offense will result in a warning, second a temporary ban, third a permanent ban.
If you need to share info regarding FSMs, please do so via private message. Thank you.
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2008 Highlander Base 4WD
2002 Avalon XL
1987 Suzuki Samurai 4X4 - Treading where no Jeep can follow....
If you have a front wheel drive 4 door sedan or station wagon then you even attempt the timing belt job, see if you can remove the water pump pulley. There's not hardly any room to fit a socket or box wrench on the four water pump pulley bolts. And even if you manage to remove those 4 bolts, there's still no room to remove the pulley!! So you'll be stuck and VERY VERY mad at all the dudes here who say there is sufficient clearance to remove the pulley (they may be right about there being enough clearance on certain sporty models they drive, but there's not enough clearance on the popular 4 door sedan or station wagon models)
?????............... Somebody said that???
Quote:
Originally Posted by SCT
You can take the four bolts off easily using a box end offset wrench or maybe available wrench adapters. But the engine mount right next to it has to be disconnected to be able to move the engine sufficient enough to move the pulley out.
What I do is pull those bolts first, before removing the belts, using a Crafstman off-set box-end wrench, and wedging another wrench in the power steering pulley.
When I am doing a timing belt, I just take the water pump pulley loose, and leave it hanging on the shaft. That way I can move it around enough so I can get the timing belt cover off.
I think to get the water pump out you might need to lower the front of the engine (timing belt end) a few inches.
__________________
'88 Corolla, AE92 SR-5, 7A-FE swap/GT-S suspension
'87 Corolla, AE82 FX-16, 4A-GZE swap (autocrosser)
'03 Tundra 4X4 Access Cab, (FX tow vehicle/Home Depot runner)
Modification: Changing something to what you thought it should have been from the start!
What I do is pull those bolts first, before removing the belts, using a Crafstman off-set box-end wrench, and wedging another wrench in the power steering pulley.
When I am doing a timing belt, I just take the water pump pulley loose, and leave it hanging on the shaft. That way I can move it around enough so I can get the timing belt cover off.
I think to get the water pump out you might need to lower the front of the engine (timing belt end) a few inches.
Pretty much what I did. I replaced my water pump in the timing belt process anyways. Yea, the engine had to be maneuvered a bit to get the pump out, some puzzling.
Timing belt was a bitch the first time I did it, then after I drove it home realizing it drove really slow and retarded I figured out it was 1 notch off at the crank which wasn't cool haha. So the second time I did it, I did the whole thing in like 2 hours on my Corolla GTS 4AGE. You will need some sort of crank puller though, that shit will be stuck on there pretty hard. And the engine mount is a little annoying, I just removed it. But yeah the most annoying part was probably that water pump pulley, but there was enough room to put a rubber filter wrench around the pulley to hold it, and wrenches on the 4 bolts. it wasn't tooo bad.
Best thing to get that crank pulley bolt off is a impact gun. But of course unless you have an air compressor or air tools thats pointless. Otherwise it comes out pretty easy :-)
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