before i start taking things apart and break something how should i go about fixing my spedometer. it quit reading mid drive -88 corolla gt-s coupe fwd.
i have a haynes manual but it says to take it to a repair shop
-fishey
replace the cable and you're set, you have to take the dashboard appart though, i haven't done it in a while but find the page in the haynes manual where it shows you how to take the cluster out.
Page 12-10 of the Haynes manual shows how to remove the instrument cluster.
If I can get a chance, I can take pictures to illustrate on how to repair the cable. OR, scan my factory manual and send it to you if there's a page on it. I've been busy working at the dc auto show...
Cable replacement is easy. If the speedometer module inside the instrument cluster is worn and is the problem, that's easy to swap out as well.
I applaude you for bringing this old thread up for your concerns/ issues rather than make new threads like some.
Make sure your speedometer cable is well and working first. If not:
When you remove the instrument cluster, take the clear plaster front cover off. GENTLY pry each tab to avoid an damage. Same with the black bezel/trim.
On the backside, very back of the speedometer module, are three screws. Remove those three and the speedometer module comes out.
To take the speedometer face off, remove the two black screws holding it. The needle slides right off with ease (pry it at the base of the needle, less chance of snapping it).
Get yourself a new module, spin it up with a fast power tool or whatever to get the mileage to match your old one, install, DONE
I've been having speedometer issues with my All-Trac wagon since I bought it. And I remember bumping an older topic to ask questions, but it was only recently that I've been able to mess with it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SCT
Make sure your speedometer cable is well and working first.
Just check to see that it spins like it should? I checked the one that runs from from the engine and up close to the firewall, but it's hard to check the one that runs into the cabin. I'm pretty sure that last one does work, as I spun the cable with a screwdriver and the trip odometer changed.
Quote:
On the backside, very back of the speedometer module, are three screws. Remove those three and the speedometer module comes out.
To take the speedometer face off, remove the two black screws holding it. The needle slides right off with ease (pry it at the base of the needle, less chance of snapping it).
Get yourself a new module, spin it up with a fast power tool or whatever to get the mileage to match your old one, install, DONE
Going by my repair manual, I pulled out the speedometer from the gauge cluster, and turned the connector where the cable feeds in while checking for continuity 4 times per 1 revolution. That checked out alright, but I noticed that the needle warbled quite a bit as I spun the back of it. The faster you spin it, the higher up the needle moves... and on mine, it warbled more. Does this mean I need to replace that sensor? Should I take a chance with a junkyard donation ($), or buy new from Toyota ($$$$$)?
When I drive, the needle will sometimes be fine, but seems to not like colder weather. It will bounce and jump like crazy, but generally it will show me 10-15 mph faster than what I think I'm doing.
Is there a digital or alternative speedometer I could set up on my engine and in my dash, and just forget about the stupid cable driven one?
There's no no digital version of the speedometer, that I know of.
Mine does that, too. During cold weather, sound would be emitted from the cluster and/or the speedometer needle go wacky at times. Yes, this is the speedometer module acting up. It doesn't cost much from a junkyard, so I prefer that over a new one unless you want a new and can find one.
That's something I'm also wondering, if there is a cheaper alternative to the Toyota OEM replacement for that module. But, I guess it would have the odometer attached, and it's hard to swap them around (looks like melted plastic keeps the pin in place).
hey thanx alot SCT! i really didn't think anybody would answer. I have a '91 Corolla sr5 ...i'm sorry but u lost me, i thought (from wat others have told me) that i only needed to replace the cable...but either i misunderstood u or u r saying that i have to replace the whole module? could u clarify please? this is my first car and i'm learning as i go with it....
hey thanx alot SCT! i really didn't think anybody would answer. I have a '91 Corolla sr5 ...i'm sorry but u lost me, i thought (from wat others have told me) that i only needed to replace the cable...but either i misunderstood u or u r saying that i have to replace the whole module? could u clarify please? this is my first car and i'm learning as i go with it....
He's basiclly saying that you check the cable first to see if it's binding from wear or rust or other which would cause it to not spin properly, which inturn would not allow the module to read correctly. You can spray some silicon lube down the cable and run it with a drill to free it up somewhat. This would help with cold weather operation as well.
If the cable is fine then the module, (in the cluster), that is spun by the cable is not translating the signal correctly, again due to wear of the spinning components. When it's cold the older mudules don't work as well anymore, You can lube them in a certain way to help this but with age it will eventually fail.
the ae92 uses a 2 piece cable.... almost always it's the lower (shorter and cheaper) section that breaks.... nothing in the dash that needs to be done. Remove the lower cable and check to see if it works, if not then replace it.
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1) 2004 IS300 Manual/LSD/Sportdesign 2) 2010 Corolla S 5 speed 3) 1986 MR2 "MK1.22" 5sfe/s54 swap 3) 1995 Ford Explorer 4x4, TT/AAL/custom shackle lift, 31"s
Thanks for all the replies and help! I guess I'm going to eventually spring for a brand new OEM speedometer cluster... But being in Florida, it's not cold here very much! Just this freaky winter! So I'll hold onto my cash and see how well the speedometer works during the warmer months.
sorry i didnt answer earlier, i just got my internet back...btw thanks a lot!! ill see when i get to it, cause rite now my priority is a faulty water pump
the ae92 uses a 2 piece cable.... almost always it's the lower (shorter and cheaper) section that breaks.... nothing in the dash that needs to be done. Remove the lower cable and check to see if it works, if not then replace it.
I replaced my lower section cable about 10 years ago,, it cost about $30.00 at the dealer and took a whole 5 minutes to fix..
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1989 Toyota Corolla SR5, Carb.
1993 Camry LE
$30! Junk yard, $5. But yea, I had that problem before too. One day while driving, I was traveling 70mph to 0mph while still going 70mph. The small cable section had split.
The one thing I could never explain when I had an auto trans before the swap, why the fluid sucked up through the cable and onto my foot. I replaced everything, seals, cables.... Then a few months later, diff goes bye bye.
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for your concerns/ issues rather than make new threads like some.
But being in Florida, it's not cold here very much! Just this freaky winter! So I'll hold onto my cash and see how well the speedometer works during the warmer months.
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