The last time I replaced a water pump on a '91 Corolla with the 4AF-E engine, after I unbolted the water pump pulley and the water pump itself, I still had to remove the piece that the water pump bolts to in order to remove it from the vehicle due to clearance issues. This then necessitated replacing two "o" rings on the rear mating surface of the piece that the water pump bolts to. Recently, I was takling to someone that claims that they can raise the engine up enough with three of the four motor mounts still connected, so that they can remove the water pump from the vehicle without unbolting the piece that the water pump bolts to.
I am curious which method those that have doen this job used, and how well it worked for you.
The last time I replaced a water pump on a '91 Corolla with the 4AF-E engine, after I unbolted the water pump pulley and the water pump itself, I still had to remove the piece that the water pump bolts to in order to remove it from the vehicle due to clearance issues. This then necessitated replacing two "o" rings on the rear mating surface of the piece that the water pump bolts to. Recently, I was takling to someone that claims that they can raise the engine up enough with three of the four motor mounts still connected, so that they can remove the water pump from the vehicle without unbolting the piece that the water pump bolts to.
I am curious which method those that have doen this job used, and how well it worked for you.
It sounds like this might work, but I would disconnect the transmission left side mount, and let the engine and transmission pivot on the forward and aft mounts.
I have only ever done the water pump with the engine out of the car, so I can't say for sure.
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'88 Corolla, AE92 SR-5, 7A-FE swap/GT-S suspension
'87 Corolla, AE82 FX-16, 4A-GZE swap (autocrosser)
'03 Tundra 4X4 Access Cab, (FX tow vehicle/Home Depot runner)
Modification: Changing something to what you thought it should have been from the start!
I disconnected and removed only the passenger side mount. I was able to pry the motor towards the driver side safely without damage and raise only the motor just enough with a jack on the oil pan.
I suggest you change the timing belt, timing belt tensioner and the front crank oil seal as well since they're right there.
I disconnected and removed only the passenger side mount. I was able to pry the motor towards the driver side safely without damage and raise only the motor just enough with a jack on the oil pan.
I suggest you change the timing belt, timing belt tensioner and the front crank oil seal as well since they're right there.
I did exactly this, but I removed the power steering for more clearance, actually you do not have to. It is a pain to put it back, because the go-through bolt is too long. At last, I had to remove the passenger side wheel and asked my son to help me to put it back.
With an engine hoist, would I be able to just remove all the mounts and move the engine/tranny to wherever I wanted within the engine bay? I noticed on my All-Trac wagon that the hood doesn't lift up straight up in the air (like my del Sol). I'm guessing it would be harder to completely remove the engine because of this, but maybe it would be enough clearance to get to the water pump & timing belt...? Or is the fact I have am All-Trac going to make this more of a headache?
I assume there are several ways of doing this. I started to follow the Haynes guide but gave up since some instructions were wrong.
I neither have to remove any of the mounts of the enginge/transmission nor jack up the engine but is was &%*##¤ tight! I rather change timing belt!
Loosen the wheel nuts RF
Jack up the car
Remove RF wheel
Remove the right plastic cover underneath the engine.
Drain the coolant. Is there a tap on the bottom of the radiator.
This is the hardest part and I suggest doing this now while the belts are on:
Loosen (but don't remove) the nuts to the pulley of the water pump. Can be done from below, but it is also possible from the top. Tight!
Loosen the bolt to the alternator and slacken the belt. Remove the belt.
Remove the tensioner nut to the P/S pump, slacken belt and remove it. Push the entire pump as much as possible to the left (back).
Remove the entire bracket that keeps the P/S pump adjustment nut and also the bracket just next to the right (3 bolts).
Loosen the bolt, which among other things, holds the cable to the alternator. It's located on top of the timing belt cap.
Loosen the upper timing belt cap, 4 bolts.
Loosen the bolts for the valve cover.
Lift the valve cover about half an inch. Now you can remove the upper timing belt cap.
Remove the middle timing belt cap. Loosen the two lower bolts first.
Remove the 2 nuts that are behind the water pump where the large pipe enters.
Remove the four bolts that holds the pulley. It is still not possible to remove the pulley, is too tight. Leave it that way.
Remove the bolt at the far left that holds the oilstick. Withdraw the entire oilstick tube. Beware that no debris falls into the hole, tend to be some stuff there. Put something to cover the hole from the top like a bolt.
Loosen the three large bolts (12) at the front that holds the water pump. Do not worry about the small ones (10).
Now the pump can be removed. It will drain some water when this is done and this is one of the reasons to cover the oil stick hole.
Remove the pulley by tilting the pump.
Replace o-rings if you replace it with a used pump. New o-rings should be included if you buy a new one. If you have missed to get them (as I did), use gasket cement.
Now just mount the new pump. Do not forget the pulley! It is incredibly tight to get it in position!
Then, just to put everything else back in reverse order.
Fill the radiator.
Start up the enging and check for leaks.
Sorry for my english.
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With an engine hoist, would I be able to just remove all the mounts and move the engine/tranny to wherever I wanted within the engine bay? I noticed on my All-Trac wagon that the hood doesn't lift up straight up in the air (like my del Sol). I'm guessing it would be harder to completely remove the engine because of this, but maybe it would be enough clearance to get to the water pump & timing belt...? Or is the fact I have am All-Trac going to make this more of a headache?
Yes, to your question. You don't need to lift the engine out that much. I think you need like maybe up an inch, more or less, to get the water pump out. It's only the water pump that is a puzzle to get out, everything else slips out fine.
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