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6th Generation (1988-1992) Specific discussion of the AE92

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Old 02-21-2010, 11:29 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Distributor leaking, need help!`

Hey everyone . I started noticing a burning smell from my engine bay two days ago and when i finally looked under the hood i saw smoke comming from under my distributor cap on top of the header heat shield . I heard that oil leaks from that area is common so i opened up the cap and found oil inside of it. Anyone ever had that issue? And if so how hard is it to fix?
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Old 02-21-2010, 12:55 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I don't think it is too hard. I believe it is a seal that has probably gone bad.
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Old 02-21-2010, 04:36 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Yea, just order a kit from www.kbox.ca that's where I got mines. I smoothed and polished the portion of the shaft where the old seal wore in so it didn't damage the new seal.
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Old 02-21-2010, 06:16 PM   #4 (permalink)
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You can possibly get new seals from local autopart stores as well. Very simple fix.

Mark the placement of the distributor first, that way you don't have to play the guessing game on how it went on and what not.
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Old 02-21-2010, 08:27 PM   #5 (permalink)
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i saw the kit from kbox that superRA mentioned, it comes with 5 seals. i take i that im gonna have to remove the distributor and disassemble it completely to change the seals?
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Old 02-21-2010, 09:38 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Yea, it mostly needs to come all apart to install that kit. Careful with the wires of the module as they have probably gotten baked and crispy over the years. If you don't flex them too much it should be fine, otherwise the insulation may crack off
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Old 02-22-2010, 01:01 PM   #7 (permalink)
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So other than the possible cracking of the wire insulation, it should be relatively easy to dissasemble the distributor assembly?
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Old 02-22-2010, 02:27 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Put the number one cylinder in TDC.. mark the base of distributer. put a mark where the rotor is pointing to, .( The distributer cap might have the number one terminal marked,
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Old 02-23-2010, 01:07 PM   #9 (permalink)
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do you think i can get away with just marking the position of the rotor and after replacing the seals just install the assembly with the rotor in the original marked position?
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Old 02-23-2010, 02:04 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fremontguy01 View Post
do you think i can get away with just marking the position of the rotor and after replacing the seals just install the assembly with the rotor in the original marked position?
Just do it my way...
To find the TDC on #1 Cyl, remove the number one spark plug, using a compression hose and a ballon, using ratchet/breaker bar on the crankpulley turn the engine in normal rotation.
until you feel compression. Stop, then look at the distributer rotor it should be poiting to the cap number one wire terminal.(Follow the number one wire to the cap, where it goes in is the rotor should point to.

While distributer is out of the engine, DO NOT CRANK THE ENGINE!

TDC means Top Dead Center, and BTDC is Bottom Top Dead Center
Do you know the 4 strokes? ie Intake, Compression, Power, Exhaust.

Intake stroke the piston goes BTDC, and intake valve is open, exhaust valve is closed. Air-fuel mixture goes in...
Compression stoke the piston is going up TDC. Both valves are closed,
and the A/F mixture is getting compressed.
Power Stroke, Spark plug fires and completes combustion, causing the piston to go down(BTDC)
Exhaust stroke, the piston goes up(TDC) and pushes the exhaust gases out, the exhaust valve is open
The 4-cycle gets repeated,again and again.
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Last edited by Mr.Nutcase; 02-23-2010 at 02:12 PM.
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Old 02-23-2010, 02:56 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Yea i understand the basics of the combustion engine, i was just wondering if there is an easier way to do it without having to crank on the crankpully to get that piston to tdc. But i guess theres no other way so i'll give it a shot. Thanks guys for all the help!
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Old 02-23-2010, 03:11 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fremontguy01 View Post
Yea i understand the basics of the combustion engine, i was just wondering if there is an easier way to do it without having to crank on the crankpully to get that piston to tdc. But i guess theres no other way so i'll give it a shot. Thanks guys for all the help!
There is another way....
The alternator pulley, turn the engine from there... it should be near 24mm
I think autozone has 1/2 metric sockets.
You don't need the compression gauge for this, but it makes easy.., you just need the compression hose that comes with gauge, try looking online
I dont think I would fit my hand down the hole where spark goes.
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Last edited by Mr.Nutcase; 02-23-2010 at 03:14 PM.
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Old 02-24-2010, 04:52 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Just ordered the seals from kbox, should be here in about a week or two. Thanks everyone for the input.
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