So I inherited a 90 Corolla and I don't think the ATF has ever been changed in its 145,000 mile life. The color is brown but it runs fine, still I think it's good time for a change with the nicer weather.
I was poking around some past posts and it seems a lot of people have suggested just draining and refilling, then doing that after a few thousand miles. But I've heard that a good 1/3 of the fluid is usually not drained out, unless you flush it. A full flush and filter change is a bit above my experience level and I don't have the funds to go somewhere to get that done.
If I buy a couple quarts of ATF fluid after just draining the old crap, and then do it again after 3-5,000 miles -- will it be good?
I notice a little bit of hesitation going over 35mph (and even this is minimal), but there's no leaking and no other real problem.
I'm guessing yours is automatic lol. It's best to take it to a place that can really flush it with a good machine, that way you're getting 100% fluid flush including the torque converter. But it's also a good idea to drop the pan down and change out the filter, because it could be pretty crappy too, you never know.
But for sure, brown fluid isn't good. Take care of it before it does start to cause any problems. It may run you around $100 for a full fluid flush, but it's worth it. It's a good 15 quart flush usually. Instead of 3-4.
I would shop around a little bit, check big named places you know will do a good job and not half ass it. I honestly probably just recommend the Toyota dealer if you got one near by, so you know they're doing it right. Hope this helps. :p
The Following User Says Thank You to Createdtoburn For This Useful Post:
Man, I can't afford a full flush and there seems to be some really conflicting opinions about flushes in general. I'm just gonna drain it and put some fluid in now, then do that again a little later. Hopefully that'll get things cherry looking again. After that, I'll probably take on pulling the pan, changing the filter, etc. If I can get some time and decent place to work on the car, it doesn't seem like changing the filter will be too bad.
Anyone know offhand the size of the drain plug? I'm stuck in a place where I can't really check and have minimal tools at the moment.
Just drain and refill the pan once a week for 4 weeks and you'll replace 90% of the old fluid and you won't ruin your bank account. "Flushes" are unnecessary and just enable American shops to make alot more money on transmission service. 20 years ago, flush machines didn't exist yet toyota transmission survived 400-500,000 miles just doing pan drain and refills.
Toyotas have no trans filter that needs replacing. Only American cars have a filter that need replacing. However, if you should ever notice a 2-3 second delay between the time you select Drive or Reverse and when the transmission actually goes into those gears then it's possible the metal filter screen inside the transmission is clogged and needs cleaning.
If you have a 3 speed automatic then you also need to drain and refill the differential that is attached to the transmission. the differential has a separate drain and fill plug and takes about 1 quart of new Dexron III auto trans fluid. The differential drain and refill is extremely important because nearly all 3 speed trans failures are due to owner failure to never change the differential fluid. The 4 speed auto transmissions don't need differential draining and refilling.
When draining the pan, always measure the amount drained and add back the same amount plus 1/4 quart more. Then carefully follow the factory, haynes or owner manual procedure to check the fluid level. Incorrect fluid levels are another major cause of premature transmission wear and failure.
The Following User Says Thank You to kathyricks For This Useful Post:
Dammit, already to go and the socket I had was just a bit too small to get it off. Looks like I'll go with using the hex. Does anyone know what size that is and where to find a cheap hex wrench? I tried searching and my Haynes manual doesn't list these kinds of things...
Edit: Picked up a cheap hex set at Harbor Freight, good to go.
Simply Put Just Drain It And Fill It. I Was Going To Do A Flush On My 150k Car, But A Buddy Made A Good Point. If You Do A Straight Flush, You Will Be Flushing 150k Miles Worth Of Stuff Out Of Your Transmission. The Same Shit That Is Currently Holding The Transmission Together. So Just Do Several Drain And Fills On The Tranny And You Should Be Set.
I sure hope you don't have 150K miles of tranny fluid in your car haha. Shit is supposed to be serviced and/or flushed every 30K. Transmission fluid doesn't really last that long before the additives start to wear out. And if the stuff holding your transmission together comes out with a flush, you're screwed from the start anyway haha. There's usually nothing wrong with flushing your transmission, helps prolong your transmission life by flushing 100% of that crap out of there and replacing with brand new fluid to keep everything in your transmission like the synchros and torque converter etc, lubricated properly. The reason it changes in color is because the additives that help protect it wear out and it starts to show its time from all the heat and burns, turns darker.
The only problems people run into is when they put the wrong fluid in, something not compatible with that tranny, or expect a flush to fix a slipping tranny, which it usually doesn't, but sometimes can help.
Drain and fill pretty much does the same thing, if you do a few of them, I dont see the difference here haha. Except at least that way you can change your tranny filter out, which is a great idea as well.
u can drain and fill ur pull a cooler hose start the car and take out and put back at the same time tell its clean thats the old skool way . and about the 3 sped diff if u have that make sure u have the RIGHT WRANCH ur ur done for its realy tight up there for got its a 24 or a 27 but make sure ur wranch fits right !!! before u try to dran the diff
If you have access to a compressed air source I usually drop the pan and filter, remove one of the cooler lines and blow compressed air through the system to get all the old fluid out. Blow the coolent tank out on the bottom of the rad. Clean the pan of any old crud. Replace with new filter, put lines back on and fill with some synthetic ATF. On the 3 speed drain the diff and replace with same fluid. The diff fill plug is a bi*ch to get to and fill.
Dammit, already to go and the socket I had was just a bit too small to get it off. Looks like I'll go with using the hex. Does anyone know what size that is and where to find a cheap hex wrench? I tried searching and my Haynes manual doesn't list these kinds of things...
Edit: Picked up a cheap hex set at Harbor Freight, good to go.
It is a good idea to drop the pan and clean the magnets inside. They collect all the small particles floating around. Clean the pan,replace the gasket and refill. Don't overtighten the pan bolts.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.
Linear Mode
