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6th Generation (1988-1992) Specific discussion of the AE92

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Old 03-18-2010, 11:46 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Rough idle when warm, slow to no acceleration

the car is a 1991 toyota corolla dx been running great till a few days ago.
had 135,000 miles, automatic, very nice car. well kept.
it started to hesitate during acceleration and then bog down.
thought it was fuel or water in fuel so put heat in tank, no change

checked plugs wires, made sure everything was plugged in, no cracks, leaks etc. found nothing

idles fine cold, runs smooth, once warm engine stumbles and has rough idle.
when going down road, car runs ok as long as i dont mash the gas or need to accelerate fast. if i do push the gas down it hesitates then bogs down and is slow to accelerate.

i have replaced the PCV and grommet, car running improved slightly, cleaned idle air control valve, car improved again but still same issues.

i am at my wits end, no check engine light, and there are no codes to be pulled. i have check the systems and cant find anything wrong.

if its cold outside like below 40, car starts up idles fine, but once i get on road out of drive way and hit gas to go, its starts stumbling again.

if its warm out car idle is rough and problems on road are same.

i am very open to suggestions, or ideas of what this is and how to fix it.

i lurk often on these forums but have never registered.

Last edited by Plasma_Jet; 03-18-2010 at 11:47 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old 03-18-2010, 05:00 PM   #2 (permalink)
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TPS Sensor maybe?
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Old 03-18-2010, 05:14 PM   #3 (permalink)
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checked that, seems ok. its not putting a fault code up.
i did notice that my idle air control valve is all one solid piece on the air intake
if i get a chance ill take a photo. part store said it should unbolt or screw, but mine dont its all only molded piece of metal.

i was thinking vacuum leak but it has been tested several times.. then i thought spark plugs.. but then why would the idle be fine? put it in gear and its stumbles.

i am at my wits end.. and i would rather not throw $$$ at it and not be fixed.

it feels like a plug is misfiring but put it in neutral, and its smooths right back out.
the car is not putting out any codes, i have reset it via the disconnection of the battery run car, problems check for codes.. nadda..

i just want to fix my car.. i love it so..
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Old 03-18-2010, 07:39 PM   #4 (permalink)
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could be out of timing... or timing belt has stretched and skipped... when was the TB replaced last?

how about fuel filter, bad ignitor, plugged cat... check those.
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Last edited by REN69; 03-18-2010 at 07:41 PM.
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Old 03-19-2010, 12:47 AM   #5 (permalink)
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i checked engine mounts but can see anything visual.

fuel filter- nadda, put new one on to try it , no change
bad ignitor - looking into it, but it idles fine. park and nutreal as long as its cold, not warm runs perfect.
plugged cat, havent looked but will in morning. dont know how to check for this, visual maybe.

as for the stripped or worn timing belt.. that is that long rubber belt on left engine side when standing in front??

far as i know its good, unknown when it was last replaced, i have only owned the car for 3 years. if i do replace it, doe it go on at specific intervals or etc?
has to be dead on or car wont run? or can i buy new one and line up belt logo to old and slap it on.

what really boggles me.. is the idle.. if its running rough i can put it in neutral, and it goes bac to running smooth even quiet not a peep, put it back in gear start hesitating stumbling.

i test the acceleration today..

from stop light on bypass, slow to reach 20 take a bit for it to hit that second gear, it lurches slightly and next gear kicks in, car is automatic, the it chuggs slowly up to speed. if i slow down it has issues with me leting off gas suddenly i have to ease off it. it wont stall or die just chugs. at a full stop feels like a plug is misfiring or lagging, sounds alot like a farm tractor. when stopped and parked for a 2 sec gap i can smell rich exhaust. like its mixing it way too rich.

nothing has been acting up prior to this. just bam outta the blue chug.
it has been a great car and i will bleed to fix it. just have to know where and how.

will check all those things/suggestions and try to get back with results asap
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Old 03-19-2010, 11:46 AM   #6 (permalink)
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would an oxygen sensor cause my issue?
i think i have 2 on upstream and one after the catalytic converter.
could one or both of these be at fault?
how do i check them? and where would they be located?
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Old 03-23-2010, 01:22 PM   #7 (permalink)
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well after much shagrin and other issues,
think i found what causing it.
started going back thro each system, electrical, air, fuel. etc
systematically checking everything.

got round to the fuel part and had the fuel filter off and decided to see how well the fuel was flowing, so some messing about, and got the fuel pump to kick on, no fuel filter, low and behold, the gas was trickling like it does out of a water facuet, slow and very dribble.
now something tells me it should be a bit more stronger flow then that as my car is fuel injected.
so i trace the tiny metal tube back and there is a kink in the line much like a dent bu its got the line squished.
not broken or compromised but it hinders the flow of fuel, i am sure this is causing my issues.
now my query

can i take that bit out, cut it out and patch it, ether with fuel line hose, or should i just knuckle down and replace whole line?

i am wanting to cut it out and replace it, metal line fittings or a simple hose.

suggestions?
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Old 03-23-2010, 01:42 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plasma_Jet View Post
well after much shagrin and other issues,
think i found what causing it.
started going back thro each system, electrical, air, fuel. etc
systematically checking everything.

got round to the fuel part and had the fuel filter off and decided to see how well the fuel was flowing, so some messing about, and got the fuel pump to kick on, no fuel filter, low and behold, the gas was trickling like it does out of a water facuet, slow and very dribble.
now something tells me it should be a bit more stronger flow then that as my car is fuel injected.
so i trace the tiny metal tube back and there is a kink in the line much like a dent bu its got the line squished.
not broken or compromised but it hinders the flow of fuel, i am sure this is causing my issues.
now my query

can i take that bit out, cut it out and patch it, ether with fuel line hose, or should i just knuckle down and replace whole line?

i am wanting to cut it out and replace it, metal line fittings or a simple hose.

suggestions?
First question would be is the line corroded or rusted out now? If so replace the whole line. If it's good then you can either cut out the bad part and flare each end and put joiners on, I would suggest this, or you could get away with high pressure rubber fuel line as a fix if you do it right, that is your call.
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Old 03-23-2010, 01:46 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by RED91SR5 View Post
First question would be is the line corroded or rusted out now? If so replace the whole line. If it's good then you can either cut out the bad part and flare each end and put joiners on, I would suggest this, or you could get away with high pressure rubber fuel line as a fix if you do it right, that is your call.
its not rusted or corroded , or leaking. the line is intact but its over half the diameter of the line.

i think i will go with a metal joiner suggestion as the hose repair doesnt sit well with me and my car lol
thank you

will keep posted about the on goings.
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Old 03-23-2010, 09:08 PM   #10 (permalink)
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sort of the same problem, but its when its a cold start it runs very rough until it warms up.thinking its the timing belt? but maybe ill check the fuel line, sounds like a good idea
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Old 03-26-2010, 08:32 AM   #11 (permalink)
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When the engine is cold the cold start injector gives you a bit more fuel like choking a carb. Maybe once it burned through the fuel left in the cold start circuits fuel line your pinched main fuel line became noticeable. You could also check/adjust the idle set.
I also had a similar problem with both my Yota Rollas when their alternators started dying giving you a rough idle and slow pickup before your rpm's give you more amps. Another problem with idle I've noticed was that my headlights were dimming at idle on both so I picked up a Bosch for the 4A-GE which gives you 10 more amps but the housing isn't quite the same. You just have to make a bracket to attach the tensioner side and close your plug gaps a little cause they'll run a little hotter. Lastly I removed all the stereo equip. and subs to prevent me from roasting the batt every year and alt. every 2 years. Cause even with a 4 fared cap. that fosgate amp just kills that old cars elec. system, and DRAWS POWER. The scream of that 4 banger is music to my ears!
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Old 03-26-2010, 10:22 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plasma_Jet View Post

as for the stripped or worn timing belt.. that is that long rubber belt on left engine side when standing in front??

far as i know its good, unknown when it was last replaced, i have only owned the car for 3 years. if i do replace it, doe it go on at specific intervals or etc?
has to be dead on or car wont run? or can i buy new one and line up belt logo to old and slap it on.
I believe what your looking at is the sepentine belt. The timing belt is inbetween that one and the engine but is mostly covered up. The serpentine belt has v grooves while your timing belt is toothed. As far as the timing if your careful when removing the old belt your cams and crank should be stiff enough not to move but just in case it's not a bad idea to put a Sharpie mark on the cam pulley/s to the head and crank pulley to the front cover. If they move you'll have to find TDC and line up the cam pulley marks (4A-GE/GZE) or gear mesh marks (4A-FE). Either way replacing a timing belt inside the engine compartment is not a pleasant experience due to lack of room and your other pulleys are not gonna want to come of w/o a torch, pulley puller, some blood, sweat and maybe tears Oh and a few curse words.http://s143.photobucket.com/albums/r...Timing%20Belt/ The serpentine is removed in the pics. I've heard people say it's not bad to replace the timing belt every 200K or so. If you do make sure to check / replace the tensioner as well. One of my 4A-FE's got 242K on it before my buddy missed a shift racing and over reved it and the belt sliped a tooth. She got us back to WI from Detroit before the crank shreded it 4-5 miles from home sending the pistons into the valves. Not a pleasant noise. But man she got us home minus 15 horses, thats why I love these cars, you can beat them and they'll still keep kicking.

Last edited by Sir DevilCat; 03-26-2010 at 11:46 AM.
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Old 03-26-2010, 12:39 PM   #13 (permalink)
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im not trying to steal the thread but i didnt want to clutter it up and mak another with a similar issue.

well any way my lights go dim unless i step on the gas which is the altenator like posted previously correct??that would make it run rough too??


also any suggestions on what brand to get for the altenator and serpintine belt?

are denso altenators and gates belts any good??

Last edited by 65Pontiac; 03-26-2010 at 12:49 PM.
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Old 03-26-2010, 01:32 PM   #14 (permalink)
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@65pontiac- could be your alt. or could be what Sir DevilCat was referring too.

@Sir DevilCat well i have checked everything, will check timing belt asap.
but its odd.. it now idles fine.. no rough anything, put it in gear and the hesitation is back. i can floor gas nothing happens car goes at its own sloooow pace. then it acts very odd, say i stop at light in gear(automatic)
its idles rough, as the engine idles it goes to normal smooth idle, then goes back to rough idle. this wil happen while driving as well, going down road and car hesitates, then it will just run smooth and fine. thought it was fuel line but could be something else.

still no codes.... this is really starting to chap my spurs.. lol

i love these cars alot. i have dumped fuel cleaner, non kerosene based in it and it started to clear up the issue. or maybe im wishfully thinking??

any ideas left??
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Old 03-27-2010, 09:01 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Take your car into a dark dark garage or night time and mist a little water on your plug wires for me and see if they arc. Also take a multi meter and check the outgoing voltage off of your alt. I had gone though so many when I had a stereo in mine I noticed that not all alt. hold up to time. Some even may pass their quick-pass test but totally fail once installed.

Last edited by Sir DevilCat; 03-27-2010 at 09:53 AM.
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