Ok so now My A/C doesn't seem to want to work. I hope when my alternator died it didn't kill that. I was going to buy some coolant and try that, but they told me I still had the old R-12 or something and it wouldn't work.
I called a shop and they want $300+ to do anything. I can't afford that, there's got to be some way to find out what's wrong DIY style and be able to go as cheap as possible. I'm currently unemployed so every dollar counts.
Any suggestions on where to start first? I know very very little about car A/C systems...
Alternator has nothing to do with the A/C compressor. Does the A/C compressor kick on when you turn the A/C on? The A/C compressor has a clutch. Turn it on, clutch is activated and the compressor should start to work. Depending on how much refringerant is in the system (or junk), your A/C can blow hot or cold. COLD is prefered.
When converting from R12 to R134A type refrigerant, assuming everything is in working order (A/C compressor, no leaks, expansion valve, condenser, dryer, O-rings OK, etc.), the R12 must be properly flushed out, flush the system with Hydrochlorofluorocarbon-141B and Dichlorofluoroethane to clean all the old lubricant and junk out the system, install R134A adapters easily acquired/ purchased from ANY local auto part stores, and properly charge the A/C system with R134A and new Ester Oil.
Mine has been converted WAYS long ago, no problems.
Cheapest way, destroy the OZONE layer which can get you fined if caught and charge the system with the DIY $20 A/C recharge cans purchasable from an auto part store (also need to buy the R134A adapters). No guarantees, though.
OR, do you have a friend that works at a dealer or shop? May be they can do the conversion for you for free or something, like the things you can't do unless you have a machine (evacuating the A/C system, etc.).
Alternator has nothing to do with the A/C compressor. Does the A/C compressor kick on when you turn the A/C on? The A/C compressor has a clutch. Turn it on, clutch is activated and the compressor should start to work. Depending on how much refringerant is in the system (or junk), your A/C can blow hot or cold. COLD is prefered.
When converting from R12 to R134A type refrigerant, assuming everything is in working order (A/C compressor, no leaks, expansion valve, condenser, dryer, O-rings OK, etc.), the R12 must be properly flushed out, flush the system with Hydrochlorofluorocarbon-141B and Dichlorofluoroethane to clean all the old lubricant and junk out the system, install R134A adapters easily acquired/ purchased from ANY local auto part stores, and properly charge the A/C system with R134A and new Ester Oil.
Mine has been converted WAYS long ago, no problems.
Cheapest way, destroy the OZONE layer which can get you fined if caught and charge the system with the DIY $20 A/C recharge cans purchasable from an auto part store (also need to buy the R134A adapters). No guarantees, though.
OR, do you have a friend that works at a dealer or shop? May be they can do the conversion for you for free or something, like the things you can't do unless you have a machine (evacuating the A/C system, etc.).
I can't hear if it kicks on or not. All that blows out is the same air whether the ac is turned on, or it's just the fan going. I don't have any friends that work at any of these places.
Ok. Assuming you have a 4AF (carbureted motor) or 4AFE (fuel injected).
Your A/C compressor is located below the Alternator. It sits upfront, at the bottom, on the passenger side, very accessible through the bottom held on by four long ass bolts. Start the car with the A/C off. Look at the A/C pulley. The center of the pulley should not be spinning when it's off. Now turn the A/C on. That same pulley, the center should be spinning meaning it works. Of course, if the a/c system has too much refrigerant and freezes up (I don't think is your problem) it has a safety shut off I believe and will kick back on when it feels safe. Also, turning the A/C on, you should notice how differently the motor is running since the A/C compressor adds a load on the engine when it turns on.
More than likely your A/C system doesn' t have any refrigerant of any kind. Possibilty of a leak, but refrigerant do wear out over long periods of time requiring a recharge.
BTW, the A/C system is not as complicated as you may think. Hopefully that'll empower you a bit just incase. It used to kick the hell out of me, but it's a simple concept.
Ok. Assuming you have a 4AF (carbureted motor) or 4AFE (fuel injected).
Your A/C compressor is located below the Alternator. It sits upfront, at the bottom, on the passenger side, very accessible through the bottom held on by four long ass bolts. Start the car with the A/C off. Look at the A/C pulley. The center of the pulley should not be spinning when it's off. Now turn the A/C on. That same pulley, the center should be spinning meaning it works. Of course, if the a/c system has too much refrigerant and freezes up (I don't think is your problem) it has a safety shut off I believe and will kick back on when it feels safe. Also, turning the A/C on, you should notice how differently the motor is running since the A/C compressor adds a load on the engine when it turns on.
More than likely your A/C system doesn' t have any refrigerant of any kind. Possibilty of a leak, but refrigerant do wear out over long periods of time requiring a recharge.
BTW, the A/C system is not as complicated as you may think. Hopefully that'll empower you a bit just incase. It used to kick the hell out of me, but it's a simple concept.
Ok going out there in the dark can't see as well, but definitely can hear something going when the ac is turned on.
The weird thing is just a week or two ago my ac was blowing cold and was fine.
I took some pics in the dark with my light and wondering if that helps anyone here see anything that may pop up as a red flag to them. I'm hoping it's just low on refrigerant and I can just grab a cheap thing to refill it, but they kept telling me I can't just do that because it won't work. I took the pics with the caps on and off, and they look like previous owner may have changed them, either that or they're just really clean and new looking.
The other pic shows a line with the wrap torn, but the metal line looks intact, also there's a loose black wire that "seems" to go to the compressor, but I can't see with the alternator in the way.
Looks to me the conversion has already been done Those are R134A adapters. R12 uses screw on types, which is what you'll see when you twist those adapters off. The red (big port) is the high pressure side (gas) and the blue (smaller port) is the low pressure side (liquid). I can explain the A/C system to you, but...
You said you can hearing something from the blue capped port... Not good, replace it. It may very well be leaking from there. Happend to me when I re-installed the adapters on mine. Inside the R134A adapters are pins to push open the R12 valves. If the thread lock on the R134A adapters are not sealed aproperly and/or the adapter valves are faulty, a leak will occur.
Change that, buy a DIY can of A/C Recharge from Autozone (I think it's call EZ Chill or something), less than $20 I think, and try that. It should be a white/blue can with a single blue hose that have a dial connected to it.
The adapters are only a few bucks.
Also, if you want to be thorough with any A/C leakage, they sell a flourescent additive that you can inject into the A/C system for a few bucks. You can buy that by itself or as a package with a black/ UV light and orange safety glass. If there's a leak, that stuff will seep out and it should glow brightly with the Black/ UV light.
The foam insulation on the metal tubing is what it is, for insulation. You can use eletrical tape to cover over it, but I'm not to pressed over it IMO.
The single black wire, I have no clue. Doesn't look factory. If you can get under your car at some point, follow it and see where it goes.
Start the car with the A/C off. Look at the A/C pulley. The center of the pulley should not be spinning when it's off. Now turn the A/C on. That same pulley, the center should be spinning meaning it works.
Quick update before I check prices and hit the auto store. Since daybreak, I watched the pulley with it on and off and it seems to spin regardless of being on or off. Of course the engine still changes with it on and you can tell there is more demand on the engine with it on.
With the year and style/type of car, could the pulley spinning regardless really mean anything, possibly always spinning as standby, or maybe spinning because the belt goes to another part as well?
Just trying to get the final process of elimination before I hit the auto store for the coolant and possibly the fluorescent stuff. Thanks in advance for all of the help so far. I'd be totally lost without these forums I tell ya..
The pulley is always turning. When the clutch engages the area directly in the center engages and you can see it turning when otherwise it is stationary. Be sure to specify you need R134A and not coolant . Try to find a can with a gauge as you don't want to overfill system. As previously mentioned make sure you check the adapter for possible leaks as you don't want to lose what you put in.
+1 with what 90GP said. It's a two piece pulley (there's more pieces, but you can only see two). The "ring" of the pulley is the one that contacts the belt, that should stay spinning. The center of the pulley should be stationary when the A/C is off, or spinning when on.
And yea, ask for R134A. "Coolant" is antifreeze. R12 wouldn't be sold anywhere, but you may be able to find it, BUT there's no need for it no more.
If you find that the clutch on a/c compressor isn't engaging when a/c is turned on check to make sure that the wire that runs to the clutch wasn't disconnected when alternator was replaced .
Last edited by 90 GP; 05-01-2010 at 04:44 PM.
The Following User Says Thank You to 90 GP For This Useful Post:
UPDATE!!.. The black wire went to the compressor. I looked all around and there was an adapter that had one port open, I plugged it in and clutch engaged and ac is blowing nice and cold
I guess when the guy put in the alternator for me, I didn't notice the loose wire he had disconnected to get easy access, because I didn't have to use the ac for a bit till yesterday..
Thanks for all the tips and advice on here though, I hope the system keeps going as long as possible, but if any other issues arise this thread definitely has a tons of great info!
I'm glad you all kept me to look out for the clutch, as if I had not kept an eye out and/or not messed with the loose wire, I would probably have spent money on stuff I didn't really need.
Glad you fixed it. I should have picked up earlier on the wire you mentioned was loose and suggested that it could be the one for a/c compressor clutch.
Sorry if this is a duplicate post. Same a/c problem - blowing hot air - the clutch does not engage. I also replaced my alternator a couple of months ago - the black wire does not appear to be loose. This black wire has a disconnect right after it comes out of a wiring harness. I though maybe it had a fuse in it, but it does not appear to have one. When I had the connector separated, I checked to see if I had any voltage to it with the a/c button pushed in and the fan on and it does not appear to. I had checked all the fuses before and they are OK. If my coolant was low, would the clutch still engage??? Also, the manual refers to a "magnetic clutch relay", but I do not know where that is. Thanks for any help. Walt
There is a relay box on drivers side inside engine compartment . There is a pressure cut off switch located near firewall with a wire attached to it. Could try jumping the connections to see if compressor comes on but do it quickly to avoid ruining compressor.
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A/C not working..
Those are R134A adapters. R12 uses screw on types, which is what you'll see when you twist those adapters off. The red (big port) is the high pressure side (gas) and the blue (smaller port) is the low pressure side (liquid). I can explain the A/C system to you, but...
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