new carburetor now no A/C - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

jessicool · 05-28-2010, 06:26 PM

So I replaced the carburetor in my 89 corolla 4 AF engine. The carburetor I bought was slightly different from the one that was originally in there. There was a lot more hoses that connected to the old carburetor and very few spots for hoses on the new carburetor. The other difference was the wires that are on the carburetor that connect to the car. On the old carburetor there was 5 and on the new one there was only 2. So I hooked up the hoses and I pulled off the cap that was on the wires of the old carburetor and put the 2 wires of the new carburetor into the cap so it would hook up to my car. My car is running a lot better with the new carburetor but now I have a couple of problems.

The fan that is supposed to turn on when I flip the switch inside of my car doesnt work anymore. It doesnt automatically turn on and when I bought the car and I was told to turn it on if it starts to run hot.

And the A/C in my car doesn't blow cold. It used to blow really cold before I put in the new carburetor. I really would like to fix this because it is 100+ degrees outside.

I just plugged up the extra hoses that wouldnt hook up to the new carburetor. I think they are just for emissions?

I dont know much about cars so I appologize for not using the correct terms but if anyone has any ideas on how to fix the problems i now have it would help a lot and I would really appreciate it. I cant afford to take it to a professional

90 GP · 05-28-2010, 06:42 PM

Your replacement carb should be an exact match (hoses and electrical connections) or it or accessories linked to it will not function properly. Your earlier post mentioned that you were considering buying on E Bay. According to the link you have a 14 day return period. You should return it and get a refund. Then buy a replacement(locally) that is an exact replacement based on the Toyota part number of your original carb.

90 GP · 05-28-2010, 06:50 PM

I never dealt with em so can't answer. I would contact them immediately and tell them it is not even a close match. I used to have an 87 Nova (4alc) and saw a pic in their link. Not saying that is a match for yours but it has alot more hose and electrical connections. Look at pic and compare to your old one. I would recommend a return and try to buy locally even if it costs more at least you are getting right part.

jessicool · 06-08-2010, 12:40 AM

okay i got the new carburetor exact match and my car still doesnt run right. I filled up the tank completely full and it runns better than when it is below a half of tank. ive checked the fuel pump got a new fuel filter new distubtor cap wires and plugs new exahust manifold oxyen sensor and cat converter. what is wrong with my car?? it is hard to get it going in first gear and it only works if i hold the clutch at the right point and press the accelerator at the right point. if i press to hard to accelerate at a regular speed it just bogs down and doesnt go. Any ideas on what to do to figure out what is wrong with my car?

90 GP · 06-08-2010, 05:25 AM

MIght want to check for stored computer codes. Also check all the hoses especially the ones for the vacuum modulator that is linked to the EGR valve. The EGR valve itself could be gunked up and sticking.
Here is link for codes.

http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/

eage8 · 06-08-2010, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 90 GP

MIght want to check for stored computer codes. Also check all the hoses especially the ones for the vacuum modulator that is linked to the EGR valve. The EGR valve itself could be gunked up and sticking.
Here is link for codes.

http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/

unless it's a California car it won't have an ECU to get the codes from...

90 GP · 06-08-2010, 10:03 AM

Check the timing and vac advance and hoses ( if distributor has a vac advance). If you do have a vac advance on distributor check the internal centrifigal weights/springs for binding. As for checking computer codes check under drivers side strut tower. If you have the grey diagnostic connector you have a computer.

jessicool · 06-08-2010, 06:37 PM

it would be alot easier to just take this thing to the mechanic but i really cant afford to right now, where is the EGR valve? I have a diagnostic thing in my car but not what you hook up to it to get codes I spose Id have to take it somewhere for that. anyone know around what it costs?

90 GP · 06-09-2010, 06:26 AM

To read codes no tool other than a paper clip and then counting flashes of the check engine light. It's all in the link I sent you previously. On the EGR if you have one would be located between the intake manifold and firewall. You may not have one as my 90 4AFE doesn't. If your car is sitting in neutral does it rev freely or bog down? If it doesn't you could also have clutch/tranny issues. Also did you try loosening or removing gas cap to see if runs better? You could have a clogged fuel return line.

http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota/

jessicool · 06-11-2010, 04:59 PM

When Im in neutral and rev it it makes like weird popping noises sounds like backfiring?that wouldnt be the clutch would it? In the repair manual thing it says I have an EGR valve but I couldnt find it in my car? Ill try the paperclip and the gas cap in a while.

jessicool · 06-11-2010, 05:02 PM

ok for the paper clip the check engine light doesnt come on when I have the ingition turned to on with the engine off so I guess the check engine light doesnt work

90 GP · 06-11-2010, 06:43 PM

The popping wouldn't be related to the clutch. That is misfiring due to an ignition issue , timing or fuel issue. The bulb for check engine light in instrument cluster is probably burned out. When you have the ignition switch in the first position the check engine light and all the other warning lights should illuminate and then go off when car starts.