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6th Generation (1988-1992) Specific discussion of the AE92

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Old 07-28-2010, 03:32 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Gen6 All around disk breaks on my 91 corolla sr5 .!

what would i have to to in oreder to have all disk breaks in my car .! ive read that i can get the gts models disk breaks and attach them to my car .! is that true .?
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Old 07-28-2010, 08:32 AM   #2 (permalink)
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brakes*

IIRC the disk brake hub, rotor, caliper, caliper bracket, and hoses from a GTS. Also would be a good idea to get the GTS proportioning valve
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Old 07-28-2010, 09:23 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobMilkshakes View Post
brakes*

IIRC the disk brake hub, rotor, caliper, caliper bracket, and hoses from a GTS. Also would be a good idea to get the GTS proportioning valve
you also need the rear lateral links off a GT-S, or just another set of SR5 front links to put in the rear.

I just did this to my SR5 a few months ago
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Old 07-28-2010, 12:25 PM   #4 (permalink)
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and e-brake cables if you want e-brakes

brakes = yes
breaks = no
brakes = yes
breaks = no

Last edited by SuperRA; 07-28-2010 at 12:27 PM.
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Old 07-28-2010, 01:34 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by SuperRA View Post
and e-brake cables if you want e-brakes

brakes = yes
breaks = no
brakes = yes
breaks = no
damn get over the spelling i did it in a hurry .!!!


From 1-10 how hard is it to do all this .. ?
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Old 07-28-2010, 01:46 PM   #6 (permalink)
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what's your experience level? have you ever changed brake pads before?

the e-brake cables are a pain, so is the proportioning valve.

I would say a 5, 1 being filling your tire with air and 10 being rebuilding a transmission
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Old 07-28-2010, 03:47 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghost91rolla View Post
damn get over the spelling i did it in a hurry .!!!


From 1-10 how hard is it to do all this .. ?
Aw, just playin around.


I'd say 6 possibly 7 because I sort of did a similar thing. I had an extra set of disc brakes /hubs that I rebuilt out of the car (calipers, bearings etc) and swapped them in. Your supposed to tighten the link bolts up with the car at ride height. Since the car is pretty low, i jacked the car up and put the 4 wheels on some wood blocks I made. That raised the car off the ground about an extra foot so I could get under and tighten the bolts with the suspension at ride height. Of course if you have a drive on lift or a pit, it makes it 100% easier. And then after that, each hub is slightly different and my car didn't drive straight so I had to align the car. Since I did it myself with a buddy it was an extra pain. Of course you could just take it somewhere too, but I wanted to put in eccentric bolts to get a little bit more camber.

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10 being rebuilding a transmission
Crap, I'm going to be rebuilding my transaxle soon.

Last edited by SuperRA; 07-28-2010 at 03:50 PM.
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Old 07-28-2010, 05:26 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
I'd say 6 possibly 7 because I sort of did a similar thing. I had an extra set of disc brakes /hubs that I rebuilt out of the car (calipers, bearings etc) and swapped them in. Your supposed to tighten the link bolts up with the car at ride height. Since the car is pretty low, i jacked the car up and put the 4 wheels on some wood blocks I made. That raised the car off the ground about an extra foot so I could get under and tighten the bolts with the suspension at ride height. Of course if you have a drive on lift or a pit, it makes it 100% easier. And then after that, each hub is slightly different and my car didn't drive straight so I had to align the car. Since I did it myself with a buddy it was an extra pain. Of course you could just take it somewhere too, but I wanted to put in eccentric bolts to get a little bit more camber.
You couldn't have just used the floor jack to push the wheel up?
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Old 07-28-2010, 05:56 PM   #9 (permalink)
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car needs to settle down on the suspension, before you tighten everything up, otherwise you're going to break bushings.
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Old 07-28-2010, 06:31 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by kwint View Post
You couldn't have just used the floor jack to push the wheel up?
I'm not getting under a car that's held up with a floor jack under the wheel! Especially when I'm torquing stuff that pushes and pulls the car around...

Besides, you wouldn't know how far to push wheel up and you'd have to jack up all 4 wheels at the same time to the same height. Not very safe or smart.

Last edited by SuperRA; 07-28-2010 at 06:34 PM.
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Old 07-28-2010, 07:29 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Use ramps.
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Old 07-28-2010, 07:58 PM   #12 (permalink)
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how hard it is depends on your parts/doner car. if it was a car from a place with no snow, i would say about a 4. why a 4, because it is just bolting on parts. if the car is from an area that snows it will be rusty and thus be alot harder. the bolts most known to sieze are the bolts by the inner bushing which adjusts toe.
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Old 07-29-2010, 03:53 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Donald View Post
Use ramps.
You'd have to use 4 ramps to do it correctly. Not to many ramps fit under the car before you drive up on them.
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Old 07-29-2010, 04:11 PM   #14 (permalink)
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You'd have to use 4 ramps to do it correctly. Not to many ramps fit under the car before you drive up on them.
True. (mouth working faster than brain again)
Especially if you have lowered it.

Sure would be nice to have a pit in the garage, or a cheap garage lift!
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Old 07-29-2010, 07:01 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I picked up the whole rear subframe from a gts. Just don't do what I did... REMEMBER to grab the brake proportioning valve off the firewall. new pads, rotors and calipers and there ya go. Also need the e brake cables. Unless you need flex lines too, can't remember.
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