The 5-speed manual conversion is not very hard to do. It's usually challenging but you'll definitely enjoy the car once the conversion's finished. It's also good if you would keep the car for a very long time. AE92s are very light and nimble cars. Putting an auto transmission is almost an injustice.
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1993 Toyota Cresta Tourer S JZX90
1988 Toyota Mark II GX71
1999 Subaru Outback 5-speed
2000 Toyota Mark II IR-V
2003 Subaru Legacy BP5 2.0R
Motor swap is more challenging, but not far. Major difficulties would probably just be wiring and fuel lines (depending if you're carb or FI). Other than that, it's a bolt-on motor swap. Any 4A motor fits like stock. any other require tweakings.
Yeah I feel that way about ANY automatic and 4-cylinder. My 2009 Camry has a 5-speed auto and I'm not that fond of it really I'd rather jamb the gears thanks...
To buy the stuff one item at a time would cost me way more than finding a 5-speed parts car but I still havn't found a parts-car yet.
Yeah, I did all the bodywork and painted this rust-free AE-92. It could use a better paintjob but the bodywork came out great. Car was from texas and has no rust at all...
I was drooling over that Silvertop conversion, 160 hp sounds nice (120 torque), however the 4A-GZE sounds like 165 hp and (152 ft-lbs) at only about 8.9 : 1 compression, that's a lot more torque at a lower compression I wonder how they did that ?
4A-GZE is a US motor not JDM right ? Wonder how hard they are to find the swap guide says it bolts right up...
I'm a cheapo SOB (married) on this project my AE-92 only has about 1600 in it total so I'm probably just go to Sioux Falls and buy a manual trans. & all the stuff at the junkyard but maybe in the future I can get the silvertop or 4A-GZE...
Also my 4AFE is brandy-new (shortblock) purchased off e-bay for $325 shipped but it has the old head on it... I couldn't believe it, right from Japan I still have the pics...
The 165 hp 4A-GZE is a Japan market engine. The GZE sold here in the MR2 only put out about 135hp.
The big benefit of the GZE is the fat torque it makes at relatively low rpm
The 20 valve engine makes it's max torque at about 4500 RPM while the GZE is making good torque from about 2000 RPM.
I am right now refurbishing (new bearings, rings & gaskets) a 165hp GZE to put into a 1987 Corolla FX-16
I also have most of the parts needed to do an auto-to-manual swap that I no longer need: shifter, shifter cables, pedals, clutch line, brake booster, flywheel and clutch.
No clutch fork or throw out bearing.
The clutch and brake cylinders, you should get new.
I have a 5spd from a 4A-GE, but you won't want that since it has a final ratio that will be close to what you now have in your 3spd auto.
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'88 Corolla, AE92 SR-5, 7A-FE swap/GT-S suspension
'87 Corolla, AE82 FX-16, 4A-GZE swap (autocrosser)
'03 Tundra 4X4 Access Cab, (FX tow vehicle/Home Depot runner)
Modification: Changing something to what you thought it should have been from the start!
I did a one at a time parts swap that I got from a local pick n pull junkyard, if your really relying on this car you may want to shell out the extra cash for a rebuilt 5 speed to be sure of what your getting, though my 180k mile junkyard tranny hasn't given me any trouble......yet........
Shifter bolts right in where your auto shifter did no biggie there, cables were the only PITA of the whole project because you have to remove so much stuff to both pull the auto shift cable and install the new manual shift cables. It was mainly just time consuming.
Clutch pedal assembly and clutch master cylinder are the only things that you need to do any drilling. If you look next to your brake master cylinder/booster you should be able to see on your firewall where your clutch master will sit, it's a bump on the firewall shaped like the backside of your clutch cylinder. You'll need to drill three holes there in your firewall , one large enough too allow your push rod and the rubber nub end of your cylinder to fit through and bolt holes to attach the clutch master to the clutch pedal assembly. I recommend making a cardboard template of the backside of your clutch master and inking your holes on the firewall so as to make sure you like the way your pedal assembly sits. You kinda only get one chance to get those holes right....
As for the brake pedal it's up to you, I am still rocking the fatty auto pedal and have only accidentally hit the brake and clutch at the same time maybe 3 or 4 times in four months.
Yep you can use the same axles but take it from me you might as well replace them while your down there if you have the cash, I didn't replace either one because I had recently had one replaced when I paid to have my THIRD auto installed (a painful story) and couldn't remember which one had been replaced and now the driver side is starting to click on me
Oh and the ecu thing, don't believe the hype about having to change it, it makes no difference I can tell you from personal experience. When my swap was done I had a slightly high idle and thought that maybe the auto ecu ran a touch higher rpm. I got so sick of getting mixed info online that I went and pulled an ecu from my exact car at the junkyard (except it was a 5 speed) and drove it around for a week and noticed no difference. Then replaced a vacuum line or two and my idle came down to normal. To be sure I then put back the auto ecu and presto! same results I had with the manual ecu !
Any way if you get your parts all together and a buddy to help you, you could do it in a weekend if you had to......
oh and get some replacement brake line from a parts store (the cheapy four dollar stuff hanging by the cash register) unless you wanna buy a new one prebent. I was never meticulous enough to get clutch line out of the junkyard without damaging it.....
The 5-speed manual conversion is not very hard to do. It's usually challenging but you'll definitely enjoy the car once the conversion's finished. It's also good if you would keep the car for a very long time. AE92s are very light and nimble cars. Putting an auto transmission is almost an injustice.
I know, the wife and I bought a '91 Rolla (AE-92) brand new and drove 'er 209,000 then traded it for a Suburban to go 4-wheeling with... The Sub was a bondo-wagon and started showing rust 6-months after purchase...
Stupid, stupid, stupid.... That Rolla had no A/C though...
I've gotta bring this one back from the dead. Could any of you tell me what years, and what models I could get the 5 speed out of for this swap? I Just bought a 91 and had no clue they even offered a 3 speed auto. I do nothing but freeway driving in this thing (60 miles each way for work). That 3 speed auto is not going to cut it. Plus I'm bound to screw with this thing a bit, just like everything else, and autos are just no fun. Thanks
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1996 Toyota Scepter
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