Motor, parts, & specs
-7age
Smallport 4age head
crower stage 3 cams(in- .333" lift 288 duration, ex- .344" lift 298 duration)
NST cam gears and pulleys
1sz lifters(shimless lifters) & hks valve springs
Milled, Ported, & 5 angle valve job... chambers are 34cc
7afe head gasket
Arp head studs
Smallport pistons std size
7afe block(1.8L, more stroke)
7afe stock rods
7afe stock crank
Factory fasteners
Static compression works out to be 13.5:1
Renault 115 tooth timing belt
-4age oil pump(higher pressure, higher flow, better durability)
-4age water pump(because all my water lines where from the smallport)
Clearances are very "specific" and using 5w-40 synthetic
-7afe starter(intake side)
-FGK header, hks catback, +custom cutout to replace catalytic converter
-Fuel system
Dual weber DCOE 40S, on harada manifold, with external dual spring throttle
carter fuel pump, holley pressure reg, fuel cell, stainless lines & an fittings
(been having intermittent fuel pressure issues since it first ran)
Ignition
-msd 6420(6AL) & 8980(Timing computer) & blaster coil, dizzy from AE86.
Problem with no spark using timing computer... & still need tach adapter
Lots of wiring left to clean up and finish up & going to be fitting a different fuel cell.
Problems etc will be fixed this spring, should also be taking it to a dyno... its been running, 200kms on it so far, I can sorta run on pump gas. Sorry for no up to date pics atm.
Last edited by canadianae92; 12-14-2010 at 07:25 PM.
My cams drop the compression to like 11:1, i can run on pump gas(94) in warmer weather but under 5c it starts to ping, ill probably always run it with additives to be safe though, could be my jets are a bit lean for colder weather too i guess
and i definitely will, should be dynoing it sometime in the spring for the baseline also this block is mostly an experiment i might be a bit over cammed for my rev range but it seems to have decent midrange
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'88 Corolla, AE92 SR-5, 7A-FE swap/GT-S suspension
'87 Corolla, AE82 FX-16, 4A-GZE swap (autocrosser)
'03 Tundra 4X4 Access Cab, (FX tow vehicle/Home Depot runner)
Modification: Changing something to what you thought it should have been from the start!
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'88 Corolla, AE92 SR-5, 7A-FE swap/GT-S suspension
'87 Corolla, AE82 FX-16, 4A-GZE swap (autocrosser)
'03 Tundra 4X4 Access Cab, (FX tow vehicle/Home Depot runner)
Modification: Changing something to what you thought it should have been from the start!
I decided to keep things simple, setting everything up to use them was a complete bitch but they should make maintenance and simpler down the road and should be able to easily adapt to any changes i make to the motor. They are easy to setup well enough to run(getting them running good is a whole other story)
They can be adapted to almost any 4 cylinder if i ever decide to move on, change setups etc.
and
I really couldn't turn down Italian made webers for $200, the newer ones are have been made in spain for a while now.
Overall pretty cheap for fuel management basically $500-$600 and thats for the webers, manifold, fpr, fuel pump
I guess I'm a bit of a masochist apparently.
Weather changes and you have to adjust them, and 15mpg if I'm lucky.
I don't think you will ever get spark using a 4age dizzy on a carb set up.... the 6al isn't meant to read the figures that the dizzy puts out nor what the ignitor puts out.... that's done between the ignitor and the ecu in a stock set up.... all the tach adapter does is take the reading and will work with the gauges... it does nothing else.
most 4age's that run carb's have to use a starlet dizzy and you need a custom adapter to get it to fit....
what year Starlet I couldn't tell you..... most 4ag carb setups are finicky and don't usually run right...
this sounds similar to my 7age build... except I used stock cams/lifters.... pretty sure (smallport head, smallport pistons) it was around 11.5:1 compression... nowhere near 13.5:1.... could be the cams, but that seems like a HUGE jump (my figure was based on Aaron's, from Lithia Toyota, computed figures that are posted all over). 4age oil pumps are the same (if you're talking newer 4age) as the 7a pumps.... the internals on the early to late 4age pumps changed, but the pressure & volume amounts were the same...
my 7age didn't last.... needs new rods.
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1) 2004 IS300 Manual/LSD/Sportdesign 2) 2010 Corolla S 5 speed 3) 1986 MR2 "MK1.22" 5sfe/s54 swap 3) 1995 Ford Explorer 4x4, TT/AAL/custom shackle lift, 31"s
Last edited by toyotaspeed90; 12-17-2010 at 04:08 PM.
I don't think you will ever get spark using a 4age dizzy on a carb set up.... the 6al isn't meant to read the figures that the dizzy puts out nor what the ignitor puts out.... that's done between the ignitor and the ecu in a stock set up.... all the tach adapter does is take the reading and will work with the gauges... it does nothing else.
most 4age's that run carb's have to use a starlet dizzy and you need a custom adapter to get it to fit....
what year Starlet I couldn't tell you..... most 4ag carb setups are finicky and don't usually run right...
this sounds similar to my 7age build... except I used stock cams/lifters.... pretty sure (smallport head, smallport pistons) it was around 11.5:1 compression... nowhere near 13.5:1.... could be the cams, but that seems like a HUGE jump (my figure was based on Aaron's, from Lithia Toyota, computed figures that are posted all over). 4age oil pumps are the same (if you're talking newer 4age) as the 7a pumps.... the internals on the early to late 4age pumps changed, but the pressure & volume amounts were the same...
my 7age didn't last.... needs new rods.
I'm getting good spark with the 6al intact I've put 200kms on it. The 6al has magnetic pick up as does the 8980 timing computer. I only get no spark with the 8980 hooked up. I need a tach adapter because the 6al puts out a different signal than the 4ag computer because I kind of want a tach. Many many many many MANY carb 4ag builds use the 6a msd ignition boxes.
I calculated my compression ratio myself, took my own measurements and CCed the head myself so I know my numbers are almost exact. My head is milled a lot and I'm using a 7afe headgasket. The cams drop the compression on a compression test I got 230/220 across the board. With the cams set at crowers specs the overlap should drop my cr about 2.5-3 points(making it 10.5-11:1 dynamic compression). My compression test verifies that my calculations were very close to correct.
and 7afes oil pump pressure release will release at lower pressure, if they were the same toyota would have just used the same pump
Last edited by canadianae92; 12-18-2010 at 12:21 AM.
excellent build thus far for something original in a ae92. I demand updated pics and mayby a pic or 2 of what you used on the lifter when degreeing the cams.
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WTB: Rear TRD sway bar for ae92
my cars covered in snow right now but over the holidays I'm gonna start cleaning up some of the wiring(i just now got a soldering iron, used crimp connectors to just get it running) so ill take some pics of it while I'm doin that
i used this to measure the lifter movement except i got a spare dial indicator and i extended the plunger so it would reach the lifter without interference from the cams
sorry i don't any pics of during the process, that's one thing i wish i took a pic of, the motor with the degree wheel and dial indicator on it, pretty bad at getting myself to take pics
Last edited by canadianae92; 12-18-2010 at 11:07 PM.
Awesome build, looking forward to seeing more. What are you going to rev it up to? I'll be interested to see how the rods last with that sort of compression ratio, they seem to be the weak point of 7ages. nice aftermarket ones are available though.
good luck with the carbs... I gave up on my Weber DGES 38 haha
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'01 Impreza 2.5 RS - Mud flaps, skid plates, Gravel Dampers
'89 RX-7 TurboII - Megasquirt-3 - 270 rwhp
'89 Corolla SR5 - 4AGE ST 20V 6spd LSD, Megasquirt II, Koni Race Dampers + GroundControls + camber plates F/R, GT-S Rear brakes
'81 BMW R65 For Sale: GT-S strut bar + Front GT-S koni yellows
ill rev it to 8000 at first, if it lasts taking that abuse i might try more, im not sure how long it will last either
but i have a spare high comp block, and a spare 7afe block too... im thinking about get aftermarket rods for the 7a or building a 1.6 while i run this motor
the 7afe rods are really dinky compared to the smallports and how the bolt threads in to the rod makes it a bit weak too
Its not compression that kills rods, its tension. Well sure compression does bend them, but it takes alot more to do that. Common problem with race cars of the past was that you'd rev them on full load and then quickly slam the throttle shut, causing such a pressure difference in the cylinders that the rods would fail.
Bottom line, I'm fairly sure the rods should handle that.
I don't think you will ever get spark using a 4age dizzy on a carb set up.... the 6al isn't meant to read the figures that the dizzy puts out nor what the ignitor puts out.... that's done between the ignitor and the ecu in a stock set up.... all the tach adapter does is take the reading and will work with the gauges... it does nothing else.
most 4age's that run carb's have to use a starlet dizzy and you need a custom adapter to get it to fit....
what year Starlet I couldn't tell you..... most 4ag carb setups are finicky and don't usually run right...
blue top 4age dizzy has been used for ages on carb 4ag builds. 4ac dizzy can be used as well.
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