OK, so I've got all the hoses, connectors, etc removed (and marked) from the IM. I removed the bottom bolts first, including the one with the ground wire... then the nut on top and all but two of the top bolts (only loosened, to keep the IM from falling)... but the intake manifold won't budge! I've tapped on it with a rubber mallet, also with a metal hammer (carefully) near the base of the runners where they meet the head. But this thing won't move. Any advice?
I'm doing this to get at the starter, which most likely needs new contacts. I've been told I can remove the starter from the driver side by moving some heater hoses and the air intake tube. I did this, at least I think I moved the right hoses (one on the firewall, one on the IM). But I can't find the starter connector(s) to safely remove them, and can't find the second bolt that holds the starter in place. So yeah... this has become a huge PITA job.
For those wondering, no, you cannot remove the starter from below the car because the transfer case is in the way...
The instructions in the link refer to a stay (assume it's a support bracket going from manifold to block). Maybe can view it from underneath looking up.
Thanks... I'll check that out. I didn't see or feel one anywhere when I was trying to get the IM free. I know my Honda has a support but it's easy to find by feeling for it.
Well, if you're going to change the gasket anyway (which I seem to recall you saying you were somewhere, maybe another thread?), you could resort to the old main stay of heat+PB Blaster. But I'd probably only do that if it isn't wiggling at all. Maybe some strange combination of time+pressure has the gasket acting more like an adhesive, I've seen something similar happen on an old VW. If you must resort to that, one of those portable propane torches should do the trick pretty well. Just make sure not to focus the heat too much/heat up one area for too long, try to make sure you heat everything evenly.
make sure all the bolts & nuts are off, theres probably still one or two hidden or something if its that tight....or bracket... if there's not hit it hard with the mallet in a way that will put force on it away from the motor... even better is if you can find a place to pry between the head and on the manifold... like mentioned heat can also help
I changed the starter on my 4A-F without touching the intake manifold...
+1.
For the starter, you access the two wires connected to it from the bottom. As for the mount bolts, one is access from the bottom while the other is accessed through the top driver side on the bellhousing. Once loose, the starter can be maneuvered out through the top of the driver side. No need to remove any hose, just need to bend one of the coolant hose out the way a bit. Simple. Provided a picture:
Thanks guys... especially for that drawing. I didn't realize one of the bolts was more easily accessed than the other (the one that is pictured below the starter in that drawing).
Can I remove the wire from the starter after I pull it off the engine? I was trying to feel around for the connector (well, in this case, a connector and a nut) but couldn't find it.
I've already gotten all this crap removed, and I'm determined to remove the IM now, lol. And yeah I bought a new gasket so if I destroy the old one during removal, so be it. I'm a bit leery of using a torch on an area that had some gasoline spilled onto it... well I'll have to check this out again tomorrow sometime to see if I missed any bolts or nuts (and my bad, there are two nuts, not just one).
I also bought a fuel injector gasket set since I have them out, and the ones on the ends that plug into the head look kind of decayed. I blame that on the VC gasket leaking oil on them over time.
The crazy thing is I have a FSM, but it's pretty vague on a lot of stuff I've looked at. I wish whoever wrote the one for my Honda also wrote the one for these cars
I don't think you would be able to get the wire off when you pull the starter to the top, I haven't tried that so I'm not 100% sure. If you unbolt the starter and set it as far down it can go, you could reach it better. I think if you pull the passenger side drive axle out, you can take the starter out too. The wire is only so long. It's better to take the wires off first. Just raise the car and lay on the ground, you can't miss the wires.
The FSM is a big help, but I guess it expects you to know most of the smaller of things... I have both the FSM and Chiltons, there would be things that one book have while the other doesn't. Some stuff both books don't have, many things they both have. I guess it's how the author views the difficulties of some stuff or simply forgot.
Part of the problem I've had with removing the starter is that I have an All-Trac, so the transfer case is in the way when working under the car. Also, I'm not sure if the FWD models have this, but there's a sort of subframe brace... not sure what it's called. It runs from the front bumper to the lower part of the firewall. It kind of makes working under the car a pain.
It turned out I had missed one bolt on the IM along with the one from the support bracket. After I got those two out, and pulled off a few more hoses and cursed several more times, I got the IM off Much easier to see the starter and get at it and its connectors. Smack dab in the middle of the pic below:
I'm glad I went through with removing the IM... here are what my intake ports on the head looked like:
I scraped the gunk off the edges... for the rest, would it be safe / OK to use a brass brush, then clean up using a strong shop vac? I figured I don't want this crap getting into the head and on top of the pistons.
Also... the fuel injectors have rubber insulators on their bases. I can't seem to order them from auto parts stores. Am I SOL? Will I have to get these through Toyota for $3 a piece?
You really need to replace the injector O-rings anytime they come out of the fuel rail. Yes, you may have to pay $3 each from the dealer. lube them with a small bit of silicone lube (cheapest is the bulb/socket lube at the checkout counter of parts stores) so they don't twist or bind when going back in.
While the manifold is off, clean that EGR passage out better! use compressed air (or suck with the vac) and get some 5/16ths steel cable, thread it in and spin it with a drill at medium speed back and forth and push it in and out to ream the gunk out of there, do the same on the manifold side. If possible pull the rubber hoses and sensors off the the manifold (throttle body gasket can be reused, pull it off) and just dunk it into solvent to wash out the crud...its nasty in there trust me! Also clean the throttle body and its passages thoroughly.
all of that will make a difference in how it runs!
Thanks, I will! I emailed the pics to a friend of mine, he said the same thing, that the EGR system was the cause of all that gunk. Is there anything I can do to reduce that in the future? Oil catch can or something? We don't have to worry about inspections or smog laws here, so I'm free to modify the intake / EGR systems as much as I want...
You really need to replace the injector O-rings anytime they come out of the fuel rail. Yes, you may have to pay $3 each from the dealer. lube them with a small bit of silicone lube (cheapest is the bulb/socket lube at the checkout counter of parts stores) so they don't twist or bind when going back in.
I got a huge set of variously sized universal o-rings at advance auto and they worked fine on my rx-7 and were cheap.
also, use oil to lube the o-rings, it works well.
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Well I went to NAPA, they have a set with all three! $o that $ave$ me the co$t of buying from Toyota Only problem was that they only had 4 sets in stock, and one of them had two insulators. No big deal, this job will be taking me a little while since I'm waiting on the starter contacts.
The FSM says to lubricate the O-rings with gasoline... I think I'll go with the dielectric grease as I can't imagine that causing a problem as long as I don't use too much.
I decided to also pick up a new fuel filter from NAPA as well, since I have fuel lines unplugged and gas has leaked out all over. Might as well make a little more of a mess.
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Intake manifold won't come off (4A-FE)
Much easier to see the starter and get at it and its connectors. Smack dab in the middle of the pic below:
I scraped the gunk off the edges... for the rest, would it be safe / OK to use a brass brush, then clean up using a strong shop vac? I figured I don't want this crap getting into the head and on top of the pistons.
Only problem was that they only had 4 sets in stock, and one of them had two insulators. No big deal, this job will be taking me a little while since I'm waiting on the starter contacts.
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