My 1992 Corolla Wagon All-Trac is only running on 2 cylinders now (#3 & #4). #1 & #2 have 100 and 75 PSI (respectively) on compression test. Doing a leak test blowing air through plug hole has air coming out oil cap hole. Can't hear anything leaking in exhaust.
What is the next step? Am I missing a diagnosing step?
Do I pull engine, inspect and rebuild? Does it make more sense to just drop in another 4A-FE?
Did you try putting a small quantity of oil in affected cyclinders and repeat compression test? If values increase it would indicate piston ring problems. Did you remove rad cap when injecting air into cyclinder to check for bubbles which would indicate blown head gasket.
The Following User Says Thank You to 90 GP For This Useful Post:
Here is a link with a posting on compression/leak test. It seems to confirm that leakage heard around valve cover area would be piston rings/cylinder issue. I read a post elsewhere where seafoam was used which freed up stuck rings and thus helped low compression issue.
Thanks for the responses. It appears problem is head gasket. I'm going to tear it out this week and look at everything. I'm sure I'll post with more questions. I'll try to post pics.
Anyone looking to buy an All-Trac when its put back together? (Santa Barbara)
is the all track a manual or auto? that makes a hugh difference in buy and sell in the corolla game... its more like you want to buy a auto and covert it manual, or buy a manual and do a clutch job either way its still involves taking the trans out... but yeah im interested in it if its a manual. im in the inland empire, kinda close to santa barbara and i always wanted a all track, i saw a all track wagon at the junk yard like 2 months ago, nothing wrong with it, just that the owner wanted a new car, and it was beautiful...
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"I live my life one corner at a time, for those few seconds or less, im free."
i know i wanted to, but the ecology wouldnt sell it to me, they said it was one of those cars that shouldnt be let back into the street, but they will sell you a crap mitsubishi eclipse with a billion dents and a kid who couldnt decide if he wanted to rice it or low ride it.. either way, my heart broke a little that day...
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"I live my life one corner at a time, for those few seconds or less, im free."
Started it up 1/23 and it runs fine! Drive tested 1/24 and there are some minor problems. I have an wire with black connector coming from the alternator...and I don't know where it goes. Will stop the lights from dimming in time with my blinkers!
I also have a bare spade from my AC compressor. I don't know if the connector got ripped off during the engine pull....?
Do any of those connectors you're asking about look like this?
That's the oil pressure "dummy" sensor. It just makes a light go off if you have a DX model, or at least, only a light on the dash to tell you oil pressure is too low or something... Anyways if that's one of them, look behind the alternator, on the engine block. There's a connector that looks pretty much like a nail head; you slide this connector onto that. If I'm remembering correctly, it slides on in such a way that the black plastic is parallel to the engine block. Almost seems like it's not really connected (I found mine disconnected when I pulled my wiring harness away one dy recently).
Thanks RogueMoog! That took care of the electrical issue.
So, the problem now: I drove the car to a buddy's and upon trying to leave, the car wouldn't start. One the the injectors was leaking fuel (guess I pinched an O-ring on the install). I put in new o-ring, and it won't start. I'm cranking, getting fuel, but no spark. I'm getting power from the ignition to the distributor, but thats all I know. What should I test here?
Pull the ECM? It seems weird that the injector issue somehow turned into an electrical one. Any advice?
I also cleaned up the injectors and put all new o-rings / spacers on them. The engine still isn't firing, and it appeared for a while like it was being flooded with fuel. Possible fuel pressure regulating valve?
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