Ok, so i've had another idea into getting better acceleration out of my engine.
I was wondering, How heavy is the standard 4AF flywheel and will it be able to be lightened buy say an engine rebuilder.
I work for Toyota now, lol sort of ironic really, and we deal with the engine rebuilder people that are just down the road and might be able to do a deal with them. Or, will the 4age 16v Flywheel bolt onto the 4AF block as they both run the same c52 Gear-box. there are endless 4age's at Pick-a-Part and other dismantler's and it would be cheap to pick one up and fit it maybe get it skimmed and get the clutch done aswell? How would this go down with my engine.
From what I've heard there can be decent gains made by adding a light weight flywheel. my 20V revs way faster than my 4A-F used to, and it has a lighter flywheel stock.
4AGE flywheels however won't fit, because 4AGEs use a 8 bolt crank instead of the 6 bolt crank the 4A-F(E)s use.
I wouldn't have it lightened, it's a fast spinning part and could easily be off balance and you don't want it weakened by microscopic fractures.
you used to be able to get chromoly flywheels for 4A-Fs on ebay, but I don't see them. jmaz is using one on his turbo 4afe track car, so they can apparently take a decent amount of abuse.
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I do remember you posting the thing about the 8 bolt flywheel, i did a search afterwards.
Im gonna go to pick a part tomorrow and buy me one af lywheel from a 4af dunno how much of a mish its gonna be but i will try.
It should only consist of getting the clutch off the pressure plate and the 6 bolts that hold the flywheel oh and the gearbox if it's not already unbolted. A little bit of trouble for a $13 flywheel lol.
what sort of wear should i look for, as i don't want to be buying something that will break apart if something does go wrong if i get it lightened?.
I found this^, they're a bit pricey and thinking bout the exchange rate it would be expensive in NZD's and postage over here too will be a killer.
I might see what i can do with the OEM flywheel and what i get from it, they are pretty good down at the engine rebuilder's but I'm not too sure if they do flywheel lightening.
Wait and see when i call them.
I'm planning on running a lightweight flywheel as well for my 20V. I'm sure lightened flywheels are strong. I never heard of one breaking apart. If anything, I would think the clutch plate and/or pressure plate would be to blame if there is a flywheel failure.
What would be a good amount to take off the flywheel?
I don't know the original weight of the OEM 1, so i wouldn't have any idea on how much to take off.
Maybe 1.5KG i hear that's a good amount, but that was for a honda flywheel don't know if that will be good for my flywheel or not?
can anybody give me some ideas on how much to shave?
so i have bought a flywheel from my closest wrecker,
thankfully it had already been taken out so i picked it up, but it came from a 5afe with the c50 gearbox.
The 5afe's use the same clutch kit as the 4af/e's so i don't think i will come across any problems with fitment.
I would still like to check with you guys first to see if it will bolt right on.
if you have the factory flywheel lightened have it taken out of the back and then have it balanced... at a shop that is GOOD at balancing.
otherwise I wouldn't bother on a 4afe.... sorry ;/ save your pennies for a 4age.
I'm also not even a fan of putting lighter flywheels on a 4age.... mainly because I recommend only chromoly flywheels (with good reason)... which can be kind of expensive.... and takes away from other modifications you can do that might have more of an impact.
Ironically my favorite 4age flywheel is actually the heaviest, which is the factory 200mm. Although it's the heaviest it's physically smaller than the 4age 212's... and as such there is less outer rotational mass.... we've used the stock 200's in other cars that previously had 212's and noticed a mild improvement.
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if you have the factory flywheel lightened have it taken out of the back and then have it balanced... at a shop that is GOOD at balancing.
otherwise I wouldn't bother on a 4afe.... sorry ;/ save your pennies for a 4age.
I'm also not even a fan of putting lighter flywheels on a 4age.... mainly because I recommend only chromoly flywheels (with good reason)... which can be kind of expensive.... and takes away from other modifications you can do that might have more of an impact.
Ironically my favorite 4age flywheel is actually the heaviest, which is the factory 200mm. Although it's the heaviest it's physically smaller than the 4age 212's... and as such there is less outer rotational mass.... we've used the stock 200's in other cars that previously had 212's and noticed a mild improvement.
yeah... I personally wouldn't go near an aluminum flywheel... but a lot of people run them.
why they're a bad idea is that the outer ring has to still be steal. and aluminum and steel expand and contract at different rates and can separate... which at 7000 rpm is bad.
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'01 Impreza 2.5 RS - Mud flaps, skid plates, Gravel Dampers
'89 RX-7 TurboII - Megasquirt-3 - 270 rwhp
'89 Corolla SR5 - 4AGE ST 20V 6spd LSD, Megasquirt II, Koni Race Dampers + GroundControls + camber plates F/R, GT-S Rear brakes
'81 BMW R65 For Sale: GT-S strut bar + Front GT-S koni yellows
The good thing bout the 4AF flywheels then, is that they are cast iron not alluminium.
Have you had experience with breaking flywheels eage8? i never rev my car to past 7000 much any way.
The guy that i gave it too said that he has never had anything come back, so he must be pretty good and his business is primarily on flywheel balancing,machining and lightening.
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