1. Heater core is non restricted, Water runs through easy with garden hose conected
2. Temp valve opens and closes properly, Tested by blowing through.
3. Radiator holds presure with cap on.
4. Upper and lower heater hoses seem to get hot.
5. Blower motor inside car works fine.
6. Termostat is currently out, but engine is reaching temp
7. Radiator is new.
I've been doing alot of this
Had the thermostat a new aftermarket thermostat in a one point, but didn't have heat. Maybe I should try a oem one from the dealer. Tried recirc doesn't make a difference, heat is ice cold in 60 degree weather.
Is the water pump working? There was one car, a mid 90s Ford Taurus, that I had to change a water pump. It was so corroded, all that was left to pump anything was the shaft. All the blades were pretty much gone.
I agree on replacing thermostat. You could also have air in the system. With engine cold park on incline (front end higher) remove rad cap and make sure antifreeze is to filler neck. Start it up ,turn heat on high and let it run till engine is warmed up. If any air is trapped that should burp it out.
The Following User Says Thank You to 90 GP For This Useful Post:
Interesting you mention water pump, I keep telling myself if it doesn't leak it has to be working. I had the engine running at operating temp. with the radiator full, both heater hoses off at the heater core with vise grips clamping the lines and couldn't get much water flow. I don't know whether the sys. has to be totally closed and under pressure in order to see flow. I'm also thinking it maybe the water pump, just wish there was a for sure test before throwing to many parts at it.
Cooling the engine requires a descent flow from the waterpump. If not, the engine would pretty soon be overheated.
Check so the air supply to the blower motor isn't blocked.
The Following User Says Thank You to nizzehult For This Useful Post:
Well, it might be operating as it should with high rpm an so, but as long as it isn't supplied with new fresh air from outside the car no major heating would be archived.
Are the in- and outlet tubes that is circulating the water into the car getting warm?
The heater core intake and outlet tubes get warm, but when you take a line off there is no continued water flow.
I'm in the process of changing the water pump,timing belt,thermostat and head gasket while it's all apart. I'll update once it's done.
The heater core intake and outlet tubes get warm, but when you take a line off there is no continued water flow.
I'm in the process of changing the water pump,timing belt,thermostat and head gasket while it's all apart. I'll update once it's done.
OK, then you definately have a water pump issue. If the valve is OK.
Changing timing belt at the same time (and thermostat) seems like a good idea. But the head gasket? Is lt leaking?
I think it has a small leak, blowing water out the exhaust. I've owned this car for only two weeks, so at first I thought the water was condensation from some damp cool nights. There was no water in the oil, but a light residue of oil in the cooling sys. that I thought might have been from a previous repair, because it has a new radiator. Tested the cooling sys. with the blue dye to check for exhaust gases and found none, recently let it idle for several hours and there was a small amount of water under the tail pipe.
I really like the corolla's, but those intake,and water pump tube support bolts must have been designed for small japanese arms only, what a pain in the XXX.
Last time I worked on my own car was 30 years ago, the good old days. Rebuilt my 1964 ford pickup 292 in-line 6 cyl. talk about easy to work on. Did a major overhaul with the engine in the truck. Of Course wouldn't want a furd at fuel prices today.
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