It's rather easy. I hope you change the timing tensioner, crankshaft front oil seal and water pump as well. They easy to get to and well worth it since you have to replace the timing belt.
When the timing belt is off:
The tensioner, you may need to pry the tensioner as far back as it can go and tighten the bolt just enough it stays in place.
To find TDC, remove the spark plug for the first cylinder. Using a very long screwdriver or similar (a stick), stick it down into the cylinder. This is a way to give you a better visual of where the piston is. Be careful to insure nothing drops into the cylinder where you can remove it! But they have small grabber tools, incase you do. Rotate the crank (you'll have to install the bolt onto the crankshaft that holds the crankshaft pulley, but you don't have to install the pulley itself yet). There should be a "dot" on the lower timing gear, about two or three teeth to the right of where the notch is. That "dot" should line up with the "dot" that is on the block. Making sure also that the first piston is at TDC.
To the camshaft. On the cam gear, you'll notice a small hole (about the diameter of a pencil). That's the factory marking, kinda sorta. When you rotate the cam, it'll only snap and seat into four places. Rotate the cam until that hole is at the top. If you look thru that hole on the cam gear when it's centered, you should see a dot on the head behind the cam gear. That's a sign, it aligned.
Now, it's time to install the timing belt. Wrap it around both crank and cam gears. You do not need to stretch the belt at all on the side of the belt that doesn't run pass the tensioner. Once the belt is on, loosen that bolt that holding back the tensioner and the tensioner should pop in place. Then tighten.
We re-did the timing belt and now it runs perfect.
Linear Mode
