1992 Corolla won't start help please! [video inside] - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Deevious · 03-08-2011, 06:12 PM

I have run into a problem after swapping in a new fuel pump and new distributor into a corolla. The fuel pump turns on and fuel rail has pressure but it will not stay running for more than a second or two almost sounds like it's 180 degress out of time but the dizzy will only go in one way so I don't think that's it.

Here is a video that will hopefully help diagnose the symptom.

You Tube

sincity.rolla · 03-09-2011, 12:59 AM

not an expert and i may be wrong but check the cables and make sure they are in the right firing order. i did that once :-D the dizzy can be fine and if 2 cables are crossed it would do something like that. good luck

SuperRA · 03-09-2011, 01:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Deevious

I have run into a problem after swapping in a new fuel pump and new distributor into a corolla. The fuel pump turns on and fuel rail has pressure but it will not stay running for more than a second or two almost sounds like it's 180 degress out of time but the dizzy will only go in one way so I don't think that's it.

FYI, when you have a dizzy that's 180* from where it should be, the body itself doesn't have to turn 180*. You just need to take it off the motor and turn the shaft 180*.

THAT BEING SAID, from the video, it doesn't appear that is the case. I don't think the engine would run at all if the dizzy was 180* off. Yours ran for a couple seconds smoothly from what I could tell.

Make sure all critical sensors are still connected like MAP, TPS, etc. How do you know there is pressure in the rail? Do you have a gauge? If so leave it connected when you start it and observe it when the engine runs for those couple of seconds. I'd start there. If you do this, please let us know what the results are.

sincity.rolla · 03-09-2011, 01:34 AM

yeah do what he said ^^^^^

Deevious · 03-13-2011, 12:57 PM

I've checked over everything fuses, sensors, etc. everything except buying a pressure gauge to see if the fuel pressure is dying off(getting to that soon). The thing is before the fuel pump died it started up every time perfect and the only thing I changed was the fuel pump and distributor which I really didn't have to do since I found out the old one was working fine.

Another question I have is how do you test to see if the ECM/ECU is bad because during the 5 seconds the car is running the check engine light stays on.

EDIT: I also ran a hot wire from the battery to the fuel pump connection in the diagnostic port and confirmed the audible pump and attempted to start and got the same results.

Deevious · 08-26-2011, 02:55 PM

Alright, I got some free time to start working on this car again it's just been sitting outside rotting away since I created this thread.

So far I have fuel pressure all the way up the the rail, spark is good and I can heard the pump priming when I turn the key, and the fuses at the positive battery terminal checked out fine. As it stands right now the only way I can get the motor to kick over is when I spray starting fluid down the intake and since I know I have fuel pressure to my rail would that mean my injectors are the culprit?

90 GP · 08-26-2011, 05:17 PM

Cold start injector maybe.

blb · 08-27-2011, 11:46 AM

Get a noid light and confirm that the injectors are opening and closing as they should be.

Deevious · 08-28-2011, 01:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blb

Get a noid light and confirm that the injectors are opening and closing as they should be.

What about a multimeter? check with the key on and they are getting voltage

wikun · 08-28-2011, 07:55 PM

I could be wrong, but when you went back in with the dizzy were you sure that you were at TDC for number one and were pointing at number one fire with the rotor arm. In your video, I saw what looked like exhaust coming out of the intake. I personally think that it has something to do with ignition. The fact that it ran, personally IMO shows fuel. Bleeding off fuel? Idk about that one. Since it fires over almost every time, shows that fuel is coming into the cyclinders. I would figure that if the injectors weren't pulsing, then you would have a much harder time starting it the second time. I think that you are off on your timing. I would pull number one plug, stick one of the fingers on your right hand in the hole and then put a wrench on the crank and rotate clockwise, until you feel pressure pushing against you finger trying to push it out of the hole. At that point you are going to keep rotating until you line up the marks on the timing cover and the crank pulley. Next reinstall your plug. Then pull your dizzy and dizzy cap off. You would actually be surprise at how many ways your dizzy will go in. Really. And then it isn't just correct and 180* out. It will go in about 20 different ways. So get it Pointing as best as you can, if it like 5* off of where you think then pull it out and play with it. It will go in where you want even if you for like the first 5 minutes think it won't. Then reinstall everything. Have someone holding the dizzy with the bolt loosened. And then try it. You need to have your timing light hooked up and try to speck it in. But I could be wrong.

wikun · 08-28-2011, 07:58 PM

Also in the video I saw you blipping the throttle and nothing was really happening. To me that is indicative of a retarded spark. And you could have been one tooth on the dizzy gear off and have the dizzy installed at full retard and it will run like that and die quickly.

wikun · 08-28-2011, 08:02 PM

Oh and if you were in fact 180* out, it would not run at all.

Deevious · 08-29-2011, 01:07 PM

I've already tried to set the number one cylinder on TDC compression stroke but from what I understand the camshaft has a one-way slotted groove so that the distributor will always be set for TDC just so as long as the timing belt hasn't slipped/jumped.

It's really frustrating because when you turn the key it kicks over strong for a second or two then dies.

wikun · 08-29-2011, 05:46 PM

Looking at a picture of your dizzy and camshaft, it is interesting to note that you are correct. It does not have a traditional gear, but a slot. So theoretically you could only put that one in 2 ways. Correct and 180 out. I don't mean to insult you, but do you have a timing light that you can throw on there? And in the second or 2 that it is running quickly get the timing? If you could, set that timing to factory base. Just the fact that the dizzy was removed, I would throw the light on it just to make sure it is spec'd in. Your dizy can be manually adjusted (some can't be) so make sure that someone is twisting it once the engine starts. Basically just play with the dizzy to see if you can keep the car running just by adjusting it. Be careful, sometimes the wires get weak and touching them will lead to a nice zap. Just have your buddy start the car and you play with the dizzy and only touch the cap and see if you can keep it running. Once you are sure of your timing, then move on to the harder stuff. I am not sure if your fuel rail has a screw on test fitting, but if it does then you can loan out the guage from autozone. That will tell you if your pump is getting weak. Can build pressure to start the car but can't maintain pressure continuously. It hasn't failed because you can restart so quickly. But it may be getting weak. Also when was the last time the fuel filter was changed? Oh and once it starts, don't blip the throttle. It doesn't help anything right now and it seems that it doesn't do anything to the troubleshooting process. Cars don't need to be reved to idle, so I don't do it when troubleshooting. And sometimes when you throw lots of fuel in a cold engine it will die out much like yours did, so just to get that out of the equation. Not calling you out or anything. Let us know how it goes.