With monday being my last day of high school, I am starting to look at long-term investments with post-secondary and such.
Currently, I am extrordinarily lucky to have a 1990 Toyota Corolla with only 165k (km) on it that I got for $500 from my school because it was in mint condition when they got it.
I figure it should last me through college and my only problem with it is the paint. It has some swirling on the hood (Not sure how the last owner managed that) and some other paint marks.
So right now, my consideration is painting it. I'm not interested in getting a shop to paint it for $3000, the car only cost $500 and the car isn't worth $3500.
So in a nutshell, I'm looking for some advice on painting my car. I've never painted a car before but after seeing the guy on here who painted his levin-front car (after removing his hood scoop), I noticed it looked really nice and if someone else can do it, why can't I?
well i haven't personally done it but i did watch my friend do his nissan hardbody truck..... and you guys gonna get a kick out of this but he used house paint and rolled it on idk what type of house paint but i swear to god it's been over a year and it still looks nice. It's not glossy it's like a flat pearl white and i have to admit it's not bad lol
you can do a cheap roll on paint job with rustoleum (sp?) thats probably what cEtnA's buddy used, not house paint.
Well, I'm looking for something that's in the range of a couple hundred bucks and can look pseudo-professional, I'm not sure how much I trust myself rolling on rustoleum, so that's why I'm looking into using a spray-gun and a drafting booth. I'm just wondering how much success people have had, or what good methods are?
I'm in the same boat you are--car is mechanically sound, my paint looks AWFUL, plus multicolored due to a couple accidents and replaced panels/fenders and such. I went to an auto paint store and bought some primer to shoot through a gun my dad has with a compressor, intending on doing all the prep work before I give it to some high school body shop graduate to do the final color. The guy in the paint store said when I'm ready, he could probably hook me up with someone he supplies materials to to come over to my house and spray it for a couple hundred bucks. I am tempted to do it myself also. Enough sanded clear coats on top of color will probably make even my worst paint job look okay. Even so, there's gotta be a cheap place here in town who can do all that buffing a whole lot more efficiently than me.
You should be able to find shops that would do a full paint job for less than $1500. At the $3000+ mark, that would involve removing all the seals, door handles, hood, trunk, etc. and get every painted surface repainted. More than that would involve gutting the whole car. Any paint job less than $3000 would be a simple sand and paint, masking EVERYTHING not to be painted instead of removed which can still be a quality job if precision is great in the hands of the painter.
you can do a cheap roll on paint job with rustoleum (sp?) thats probably what cEtnA's buddy used, not house paint.
^ THIS!
Google it! I had a friend that painted his green Mazda 626 white with this method. It took some time, but once he had it cleared it looked decent. Just have to keep the paint somewhat thinned out. I think the paint and supplies cost him $50 or so.
Go over the area you plant to paint with prep-sol or equivalent to remove all wax and other contaminents. Next, use 400 grit wet/dry sanpaper (use it wet) to make sure the surface is perfectly smooth. Next, Go to your local automotive paint supply store and get them to mix the matching base coat in spray cans. This applies easily, like primer. If it is a metallic color, just make sure you keep shaking the can as you spray to keep the metallic particles in suspension. While at the auto paint supply store, get cans of Spray Max 2K Clear. This is a two part clear coat in a spray can. The two parts are mixed in the can when you push a pin through a valve on the bottom of the can. You must use it all with in 36 hours of activation. Use a resperator as you apply this since it contains isocyanates. With even a small amount of skill, the result will be professional using this method. If the clear goes on too dry, or you get runs, sand wet with 1500 or 2000 grit and then buff with 3m perfect-it polsihing compound for a mirror finish.
Problem with rustoleum is it will fade in the sun after a year or two and look aweful...I've seen the thin-out and roll paint jobs and if done right they arnt bad, but i would use a half decent automotive paint and thinner..only cost you a hundred or so more and be well worth it in the end.
__________________
-Phil
1992 Corolla DX 5-speed, GTS front and rear sway bars, 15" Motegi Racing rims with 205/50R15's, Aftermarket strut bar, JVC Head Unit, Pioneer Speakers, 10" Polk Sub+Amp, Front Lip Mod.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
ToyotaNation.com is an independent Toyota/Lexus enthusiast website. ToyotaNation.com is not sponsored by or in any way affiliated with Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc. The Toyota, Lexus and Scion names and logos are trademarks owned by Toyota Motor Sales, USA, Inc.
Linear Mode
