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6th Generation (1988-1992) Specific discussion of the AE92

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Old 07-07-2011, 06:02 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Question smoke from my muffler

hi there. i want to ask something about my 4af carb.. overhauled 8 months ago..

when im driving a long downhill with 4th gear (example) at 2k rpm a little engine brake. and im in the bottom and start to accelerate again i press the accelerator.. theres a few white smoke from my rear (not too much) is this normal?.. and when im in tha garage i ask my cousin to rev the engine @ 5k rpm. there are no smoke.. clear. the engine seems fine.. so guys what do you think? it is oil or gas?
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Old 07-08-2011, 05:04 AM   #2 (permalink)
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ohh one thing.. when im in the garage the engine is cold or after the car sit a fer hour.. my cousin or me rev the engine at 5k rpm.. no smoke... but when the engine is hot.. example driving for too long.. there was a smoke at 4k rpm.. so what is the problem?. i look at the pcv valve hose and theres an oil on it and the intake manifold.. even the carb.. hmm.. there should be no oil passing through pcv valve right?. when i pull the pcv valve out and compared the old one and the new one.. both of them have a rattle sound. and i blow air both of them but the old one seems to be open wide.. i can't explain it.. the new one is a little harder to blow. and both of them have one way valve.. and im note sure to install the new one because its plastic and the old one is metal. and they have the same parts number. but the last digit is different (old one 0040 new one 0030) the guy from autoshop said it was plastic thats why the last number is 30 instead of 40 but im not sure if i will believe him i just want a sure answer .. the old one.. when i blow a little amount of air on it. its still passing.. but the new one when i blow a little amount of air.. the air not passing. but when i blow harder air it pass.. hmm.. what do you think?. btw the oil passing in my old pcv valve is wet.. there should be no oil passing through it right?.. btw the engine is just overhauled a month ago.. new ring, bearing, seals.. please answer this asp
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Old 07-08-2011, 05:19 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Sounds like you are getting some oil past the rings and/or valve stem seals.. What was done during the overhaul?
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Old 07-08-2011, 08:30 PM   #4 (permalink)
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everything seems to be success.. the 4 cylinder still in good condition.. and the piston, new ring, valve stem seals.. and the engine still got power

Last edited by lgene10; 07-13-2011 at 11:12 PM.
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Old 07-13-2011, 10:58 PM   #5 (permalink)
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ohh.. now i remember!.. since the car sit for 1 year before i got it. the # 2 cylinder filled with water. and there's some rust on it. and my father didn't use #1000 sandpaper. and i told him to use. but he said its ok the piston ring will do the job.. (-_-) i think the rust damage the ring. so now. i decide to pull the head and take off the crankcase.. change all the valve steam seal for sure and change all the piston rings.. i dont want that smoke from my muffler. ill spend some money to cure this problem.. but its ok.. i really like that car
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Old 07-14-2011, 11:00 AM   #6 (permalink)
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hmm.. i check the spark plug.. and the #2 cylinder is color black (dry black).. its oil.. the 3 plugs is brown.. the repair will start few days from now.. and i got one expert mechanic will help me (because my father is busy. his friend will help me).. one thing is bothering me.. i dont want ending up re-boring!.. so 8 months ago.. as you can see to the 1st post. the #2 cylinder got some rust.. my father didn't use anything to remove the rust for example sandpaper or whatever they used to remove it.. and let the piston ring clean the rust.. do you think the #2 cylinder wall damage?.i hope its not. if its the ring its ok.. i look at the engine at idle and i try to look at the breather tube and dipstick. there are no smoke.. and the idle is still fine.. do you think its the valve stem seal or piston ring causing oil on cylinder #2? i almost forgot. when the engine is idle. there was a few boom boom sound from the muffler (example idle 800.. boom! down to 700.. back to 800.. few sec.. boom! 700 again.. back to 800 again..boom!.) do you think #2 missfiring?.. my father friend told me that valve stem seal cause the problem or the rust #2 he said if we remove the old ring the wall is shine now. the new ring will fits well.. (i hope the bore is still fine) somebody response i cant sleep.. i cant wait for that day!

Last edited by lgene10; 07-14-2011 at 11:05 AM.
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Old 07-15-2011, 06:14 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Check your compression on each cylinder to verify if in spec. For the rusty cylinder will probably need to hone it (tool that fits on a drill) and possibly replace rings and /or valve stem seals to permanently fix the problem.Might as well do it right if you go to the trouble to tear it down.
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Old 07-15-2011, 06:31 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90 GP View Post
Check your compression on each cylinder to verify if in spec. For the rusty cylinder will probably need to hone it (tool that fits on a drill) and possibly replace rings and /or valve stem seals to permanently fix the problem.Might as well do it right if you go to the trouble to tear it down.
Agreed.You can`t do a proper job with sandpaper because you can`t replicate the criss-cross pattern a honing tool leaves for proper ring seal,so do it right and get a honing tool,preferably a brush.To your problem,it sounds like you may have fitted the oil control rings incorrectly.They require a certain sequence upon fitting otherwise they end up letting excess oil past the rings which gets burnt,hence the smoke which incidently should be blue,not white.White is water.The car may have power and compression because the compression rings were fitted properly,just not the oil rings
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Old 07-15-2011, 10:46 AM   #9 (permalink)
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tnx for the info guys.. hmm.. i got drill. so i need a honing brush that fits my drill right?.. the repair will start a few days from now.. just waiting for the new parts. rings, valve seal, gasket. ill post new info after the car repair..
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Old 07-15-2011, 04:56 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Here is a link to Lisle (a good manufacturer of hones/tools). Kinda pricey 185-200 dollars but you can use for reference to find something similar.

http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=43
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Old 07-15-2011, 06:14 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Australia

Quote:
Originally Posted by lgene10 View Post
tnx for the info guys.. hmm.. i got drill. so i need a honing brush that fits my drill right?.. the repair will start a few days from now.. just waiting for the new parts. rings, valve seal, gasket. ill post new info after the car repair..

Yes,a brush is the best honing tool for you.It`s perfect for amateur home mechanics,yet gives good results.Watch the speed on your drill and don`t go too fast,or too slow and don`t get excited and over hone it or you`ll end up with a cylinder that is akin to one that`s been bored out.Generally speaking,a cross pattern of 40 degrees angle is the ideal angle to finish with.Don`t worry about trying to remove horizontal scratches on the bores,if any.Just hone it sufficiently to remove the glaze,or "Shine" as you call it.BTW,an engine that reaches a point of shine should be considered pretty well used as the cross pattern from the factory is wornAnother thing-Don`t stop the drill with the brush inside,the pull the brush out-you`ll damage the pattern.Use plenty of lubricant when you hone to cool and lubricate the brush.Wash out the cylinders well afterwards with soap and water,until there`s no more honing residue.Paper towel (DON`T use a rag) is a great way of drying and check the cleanliness.If you don`t,you`ll find it will wear rather rapidly.Once the cylinders are dry,lube them,fit the pistons with the oil rings in the correct sequence(If you`re unsure,find out)and you know the rest so I won`t go on.If you`re not confident enough with the honing procedure,find someone who is,or else in the end,you may have to overbore it anyway,and I`d hate for you to have to do that.

Good luck mate.
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Old 07-29-2011, 04:44 AM   #12 (permalink)
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the honing won't work on cylinder #2 because the rust damage is so deep.. so we ended up replacing the cylinder liner.. my father friend bought the block to the machine shop to re-bore the block and installed a new liner.. so what do you think guys.. the only thing expensive here is the machine shop.. but its ok..
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