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6th Generation (1988-1992) Specific discussion of the AE92

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Old 08-07-2011, 07:28 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Pulling the engine

I'm swapping out motors. All the manuals say to pull the block with the tranny diff. WhY? Can't I just pull the motor and leave the transmission?
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Old 08-08-2011, 01:31 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I think there are people that have done it. I'm not sure how because I've only pulled them both at the same time. I believe it is because you don't have much room to begin with. (assuming a manual trans) In order to separate the engine from the tranny, the tranny input shaft has to slide out a few inches from the clutch which means you need at least that much to begin with. For an automatic, you may be able to get away with it by unbolting the tourque converter from the flexplate. I've assembled a manual to an engine outside of the car and I wouldn't want to do it in the car. But that's me..
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Old 08-08-2011, 03:56 AM   #3 (permalink)
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OK, space makes sense. This is an auto but there's not much room forward of the engine. Thanks.
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Old 08-08-2011, 09:56 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Space is one reason, the other reason is time. The time it would take to pull the engine separate you can pull them as a pair and then separate them on floor, without a lot more access.

(TIP ) Locate and use a load leveler to remove and install your engine. I did not have one when I pulled my engine/auto....... but I sure as He__ had one when I installed them. I cannot imagine doing the job by myself without one. Bought mine at Harbor Freight for $40.00 , it's money well spent

Keep us updated on your progress
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Old 08-08-2011, 12:34 PM   #5 (permalink)
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+1

I did not use one when I pulled, but do recommend one and will probably use one next time I pull an engine. Especially now that I know HF has them!
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Old 08-08-2011, 11:07 PM   #6 (permalink)
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When removing the 4AFE engine (with the auto trans on it) I can't get it to come out of the engine compartment if it is sitting level. I have to move it sideways and lower one end to have clearance to get it out.
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Old 08-09-2011, 05:00 AM   #7 (permalink)
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OK guys, thats what I was wondering. Seemed like extra effort but looks like its worth it in the long run. Hope to finish pulling it this weekend and see how far I get dropping the other in. Will look for a leveling bar too.

Thanks,
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Old 08-09-2011, 11:50 PM   #8 (permalink)
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i would say pull the engine with the trans. split them out of the car and put the trans on the new engine outside and drop them in together. i have done that a few times and its a lot easier t. did the clutch on my car last month and just dropped the tranny and left the motor in. pain in the ass to bolt it in. did it that way cause im missin a crane so did the tranny benchpress on the floor. not fun.
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Old 08-11-2011, 09:25 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I took yourall's advice and am pulling the engine & trans as a unit. Everything is loose but its hanging up in the back. Looks like the rear mount is up against the steering unit? I unbolted it from underneath like the manual says, should it be unbolted from the block? That looks hard to get to...

Oh yeah, its been about 5 or 6 years since I replaced the drive shafts. I can't get them to let loose of the gearbox. Any tips or tricks? Before it seems like I just pryed a little and they popped out.
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Old 08-11-2011, 12:02 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Yes pulll the mounts & hardware

The really work for pulling drive shafts
Vise Grip VGP12L3 12" Original Large Jaw Locking Pliers

Vise Grip 12L3 VGP12L3 12" Original Large Jaw Locking Pliers Features and Benefits Heavy duty jaw grips around work of all shapes; ideal for plumbers, mechanics, welders, and others working with large objects Ideal for tightening, clamping, twisting and turning Turn screw to adjust pressure and fit work; stays adjusted for repetitive use Constructed of high grade heat treated alloy steel for maximum toughness and durability Guarded release trigger quickly unlocks and protects from accidental release Hardened teeth are designed to grip from any angle

You may have to stilll pry, but with these clamped to the shaft you have something to pry against
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Old 08-11-2011, 05:15 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I just took a good pry bar to it. Between the diff. case and the end of the axle. Sometimes it slips but Ill get a good point. Once u pop one off ( all due to the lil C clip at the end of the shaft ) u can take a small flat head and pop the other one throught the inside with a hammer. DONT BEAT IT but a few good taps should persuade it. That was my method when I did my couch and new axles last month. Good luck
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Old 08-11-2011, 08:27 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Never thought about Vise-grips. I was trying to pry but can't get a good purchase. I'll try the grips.

Also never thought about popping the 2nd one through the hole left by the first, duh.

Starting to look like I don't think much huh...

Pulling that motor was apita. First front wheel drive I've done. Geez! I'll never get all that crap put back in that tub!
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Old 09-05-2011, 04:48 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Finally got the new motor back in. Changed the timing belt and water pump. Runs great, except for a weird shudder when turning right and accelerating...

At the very end of the wiring harnes I have one plug left over. Its at the alternator and AC. Is it supposed to be hooked to something or not? I can't remember and everything seems to be operating...
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Old 09-05-2011, 08:29 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by KRB64 View Post
At the very end of the wiring harnes I have one plug left over. Its at the alternator and AC. Is it supposed to be hooked to something or not? I can't remember and everything seems to be operating...
I found that connector dangling loose a while back. Does it look like this?





That slides onto a sort of pinhead connector sticking out of the block. It's the oil pressure "dummy light" indicator for the dash. It's a PITA to re-connect because it's behind the alternator. It will be parallel to the block when you re-connect it... sort of slide it upwards onto that pinhead.

Last edited by RogueMoog; 09-05-2011 at 08:31 AM.
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Old 09-05-2011, 12:55 PM   #15 (permalink)
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No, I got that one. And you're right, it's a pita. I had to use needle nose vice grips...

But the wire I'm talking about is right there in that loom with that one and the alt wires. Its grey, hangs out about the same length.
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