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6th Generation (1988-1992) Specific discussion of the AE92

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Old 09-04-2011, 04:35 PM   #1 (permalink)
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USA auto trans carb or manual trans carb.

ok guys forgive me for this but i have no idea how to word this in the search. i would like to know if there is any difference in the aisin carbs in an sr5 between one with an auto tranny and a manual tranny. as u may know i've been putting together my coupe for a while. finally got it all done and ready to run. it fires up fine and idles good and revs good just smokes (the smell of fuel is unmistakable ) i know these things are feed back so no adjusting. bad carb mostly the float, autozone sells them but they have a difference in part number and a major difference in price between an auto tranny one and a manual. the auto is 195 and the manual is 499

i dont really wanna rebuild it since im not carb savy i might make it worse so a new one would be better but for 500 bucks im better off getting a damn weber. not looking for perfomance just a dd. thanks guys.
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Old 09-04-2011, 05:35 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I dont think so, at least never seen a difference at a junk yard. Mind you, I have a carb and did a trans swap.

And I rebuilt my carb once. I wasnt carb savvy either but it was fairly simple. Buying a $20 rebuild kit was worth it versus $500 I had to pay which wasnt even the same carb, several vac parts were not there.
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Old 09-04-2011, 05:43 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I am actually taking my old Carb out now to open it and see. Looks like an eBay rebuild It would be more cost effective. The assortment of vacuum lines and vacuums switches bother me a bit. Guess if I fail I can always get that 200 dollar Autozone one. Weird they would have a difference in part # and so much in price
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Old 09-04-2011, 07:30 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I mean once you reinstall the carb back on, pretty much the lines are within the tube they connect to on the carb. Especially if theyre old, they have a bend in them which pretty much shows you where they were.

And opening a carb up, just be careful to not flip it upside down or move it around much since there are ball bearings in there. If they fall out, theyll be tough to tell where they go.

Either way, you can get a carb from the junkyard. Which is your other option before buying a new/ reman carb for 500.
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Old 09-04-2011, 10:30 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks knowing me I would have flipped it and then gone oh shit!!!!. Guess ur right about the hoses I was able to get it all off today. Tomorrow gonna order the kit. Ima assume this one has all I need right

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Aisan...item336b0fe15f
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Old 09-05-2011, 12:26 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Pretty much it, except the brand I bought was Keyster (orange box, back lettering) but it looks to be the same thing.

When you open the carb, just replace the parts in the kit as you go and set the old stuff away so you know they're the old stuff. It's not as complicated as you may think.

That round black diaphragm you see on the right with the 3 ears for screws; that piece of shit was my problem. It leaked and at 40mph, it feels like there would be a fuel cut-off or rev limiter like what new cars have. Which is why I bought the kit and just changed everything. It's a auxiliary fuel vacuum thingy ma jig on what would be the thing facing towards the back of the car on the passenger side of the carb.

If you need help with anything, I can surely help you. I have two carbs sitting in my room. One is apart and I think the other is intact...
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Old 09-05-2011, 10:32 PM   #7 (permalink)
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A limiter at 40 MPH sounds fun.... well ordered the kit today should be here in a week so now its a waiting game.... appreciate the help and ill keep ya posted. Gonna take pics of the inside of the Carb to share since I'm sure its all original from 89 and sitting on 160k miles. Should be interesting.
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Old 09-10-2011, 01:06 AM   #8 (permalink)
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ok so im powned.... started to take the carb apart and couldnt get alot of the screws off. most striped... so it looks like new carb time... now a co-worker planted a seed in my head. 22r carb on my 4af???? dont think this would work, or would it?????? hey factory upgrade. might just need the adaptor plate any thoughts are

thanks
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Old 09-10-2011, 03:14 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Stripped as in the head of the screw is rounded out or as in the threads are stripped? I had that problem taking out one of the screws myself. I just took a small locking plier, snag it and got it loose.
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Old 09-10-2011, 03:29 AM   #10 (permalink)
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The heads are round off. I got like 4 that's are like that so far. Its bed time now and work tomorrow so lets see wat happens Sunday... any idea on the 22r Carb thing? Just curious really
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88-mr2...rip
88-corolla gts...sold

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Old 09-10-2011, 05:42 AM   #11 (permalink)
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These screw extractors are an option depending on how bad yours are.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-pc-...p-00952154000P
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Old 09-14-2011, 07:23 PM   #12 (permalink)
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OK so I got the Carb rebuilt.... it drastically lowered the smoking of the car. But still enough to be seen and not pass the sniff test. Not noticeable at idle but under throttle it is. The more u give it the more it is. I have loomed online and have read that a grey/blue is oil... piston rings or valve guide? That is the color I'm seeing a grey almost white and at higher rpms getting to a blue almost matching the blue to my car.... now here is my main question.... the 4af is really not worth the rebuild in my eyes since I was planning on going either 4ag Carb or 7ag Carb. Can I use the 4ag block on my f head with no major issues I know it will bolt on but as far as comp ratio and if the stock Carb will flow enough fuel??? I know I might have to use 91 Oct. Reason I'm not using the head too is cause well I'm broke and don't have the money for the manifolds or ignition systems.

I have tried searching but I get a lot of g head on f block but not the other way.... any help would be great. Thanks.... gotta get this sucker sniffed and tagd
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89 corolla sr5 5spd. rip
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88-mr2...rip
88-corolla gts...sold
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