Car Starts But Lacks Power Under Load (Dies When Shift Into Gear)

[amy+]

Details that may help: car is an automatic sedan model, engine was replaced entirely due to seizure last year with a used motor.

The Story: Usually my car has a few issues day to day; recently the battery and brake lights on the dash would come on for a while and turn off periodically. Also in wet weather the car took a little more to start and sometimes when backing out of the driveway would stall. A few days ago I went to start my car and it wouldn't even turn over or any lights at all. Upon some investigation I pieced together that a bear had climbed on the hood overnight causing the positive terminal to short out on the inside of the hood and welding the two together. After prying the battery off the hood we noticed the battery had melted from the negative terminal so I discarded that battery. After putting a new battery in it started first try and drove down the hill we live on. However when I turned and tried to come up the hill (not very steep) the car went less than 10kmph with the gas floored. When I took my foot off the pedal the car promptly died. It then had to be jumped to get it off the road and since then has started but as soon as you try to drive it on any grade whatsoever loses power and dies.

Since I rely on my car for work it being out of commission is really starting to suck. Several mechanical minded people have taken a quick look at it; the volts from the battery are all good and such we are wondering whether anyone can support the idea that it may need to have the voltage regulator or entire alternator repaired/replaced.

thank you in advance for your help.

[BeatupRolla]

should probably post if its a 4af or 4afe... the year of the car usualy tells which one it is..

[amy+]

1989 Toyota corolla sedan, front wheel drive.

I dont know what those abrev. mean

[eberbs1]

sounds like your alternator is dead, the batt and brake light coming on is a tell tail sign.

[SCT]

4AF and 4AFE are the motor code/ ID. The 4AF has a carburetor while the 4AFE is fuel injected.

Originally Posted by eberbs1

sounds like your alternator is dead, the batt and brake light coming on is a tell tail sign.

+1000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 000000000000000

Replace that alternator.

[tashirosgt]

If the car starts but has very low power, you try to determine if this is problem with the motor or a problem with the transmission. If the car hs low power when in gear but the engine sounds normal, I would suspect the transmission. If the motor sounds rough or stalls, you should see if you can detect if a cylinder is failing to fire. With the car idling, an experienced mechanic can pull one plug wire off at a time and plug it back in. If unplugging the wire makes no difference in the sound of the engine, that cylinder is failing to fire.

if wouldn't hurt to inspect your spark plugs and plug wires anway. A bad wire or plug can cause a cylinder to miss.

Another thing that could cause the car to run rough is if the timing belt has slipped. Do you know when the belt was last changed?

[amy+]

Update:

put in a used alternator. did not change.
when car was jumped and running one of the distributor cap wires was arcing.
took the cap off and there was oil inside it?!?!

wondering if an old condenser could be causing issues?

when car is running put foot on brake, shift into gear and floor gas the engine runs at half power sounds struggling a bit when take foot off gas engine dies.

timing belt was last adjusted when we put the new motor in at the beginning of the summer. it wasn't new but wasn't in bad shape and the date on it was fine.

[SCT]

The distributor have a single o-ring on the shaft that contacts the cam. It's rubber, so it definately can deteriorate and stuff. Ultimately, oil in the distributor and cap.

It could be possible the arcing of the battery terminals created fault(s) elsewhere.

It definately wouldn't hurt to check the alignment of the timing belt as well. Like mine right now, I suspect my timing belt have jumped a tooth and possibly a failed timing belt tensioner. I haven't looked into it yet. The belt and timing belt is brand new from dealer less than a year old. Before this belt, I had a 6 month old timing belt I installed new completely lose it's teeths and snapped.

But check the simples first (wires and spark plugs) like tashirosgt said.

[90 GP]

Check fuses in black box under hood. Think there is one for alternator. Also check fusible links (small box attached to positive cable). There is one for alternator. To replace links there is a plastic cover on the bottom that once open you can see the the screws/nuts that hold the link in place. Detach positive cable before you remove/replace links. When the battery got shorted out either the link and/or fuse likely blew. Could also have a dud used alternator .Did you verify if voltage at battery increased when car was running to verify alternator was charging? Should be approx 14 volts versus 12 with engine off.

[amy+]

thanks we tried to check the large 'fuses' on the positive terminal but couldn't figure out how to get them out so that's helpful. did a visual check of other fuses in box and all seem to be working fine. new alternator is working as well.

next step check the plugs and wires i guess!

do they sell just the o ring for the cap? or is it worth it to get a whole new cap from lordco?

[90 GP]

Th O ring that was mentioned goes on the shaft of the distributor not on the distrib cap. To replace it you have to remove distributor from engine. Be sure to make reference marks on present orientation of rotor before pulling it or when reinstalled in engine timing will be off.

[WellWell]

Carefully check your distributor cap for a hairline crack.

If it in any way looks iffy, replace it.

Seen this issue on more than 1 car characterized by intermittent starts, no power, dies when put into gear. A faulty cap will have any or all these traits.

WW