4AFE issues ae92 corolla

[Loki]

Hi I'm pretty new here, I've been lurking for quite a bit so I thought why not start a thread and get some service advice about my car.

I've got a 1993 AE92R Corolla sedan with a 4A-FE 5 speed manual.

It's got records showing its been serviced every 10,000 until 130,000 but between 130,000 and 192,000 (when I bought it) there are no records. Its currently at 220,000 and all I've managed to get done so far is oil change, oil filter change, spark plugs and a cold air intake. It's running a lot better now but I'm sure there are a quite a few things that need replacing considering the time between servicing. I'm pretty new to cars but I'm learning!

Timing belt was done at 130,000, I'm guessing its time to change that and the water pump too? Besides that I've noticed a few things that to me come across odd,

When I turn on the car in the morning for a few minutes the car gives a sort of grinding sound, its subtle but just doesn't sound right to me. Goes away once the car has a few mins warming up but not at operating temp.
My clutch slips when trying to shift not necessairly at too high RPM but usually if I try to shift and acelerate too quickly. Only occurs if I'm being too agressive. Not sure if thats something to worry about though.

My idle sits at between 1800-2200 until warm and then its 800-900. Which is normal but that said when I drive and the temp gauge goes below mid rage my idle increases to the 1500rpm mark until the gauge is at normal. Is this normal?

My leads say "1993 SUMITOMO" I'm assuming they're nearly 20 years old? the service history doesn't list replacement leads either. Time to change them maybe?

Anyway any help would be appreciated!

[eberbs1]

Originally Posted by Loki

My idle sits at between 1800-2200 until warm and then its 800-900. Which is normal but that said when I drive and the temp gauge goes below mid rage my idle increases to the 1500rpm mark until the gauge is at normal. Is this normal?

I would change your thermostatand flush the coolant. Its a $4 part and takes less than a half-hour to do.

[sincity.rolla]

for the grinding noise on cold start the car has a good number of miles. it might be the oil is not thick enough for cold starts and its starving the head. if u already did an oil change try adding a oil stabilizer and see if it helps. next oil change go thicker oil...

u clutch slipping might jus be that that, your clutch might have half those miles on it if not all the 2xx,xxx on it so its just worn done. time for a new one.

i would do the timing belt soon and do the water pump at the same time just because of ease.

good luck and take care of it. sounds like it still has many more miles to give.

[Loki]

Originally Posted by sincity.rolla

for the grinding noise on cold start the car has a good number of miles. it might be the oil is not thick enough for cold starts and its starving the head. if u already did an oil change try adding a oil stabilizer and see if it helps. next oil change go thicker oil...

I'm using 20W-50 at the moment, that's a pretty thick oil as far as I know. I'll look around for an oil stabilizer and see how it goes.

[tashirosgt]

If the CV joint boots haven't ever leaked, keep an eye on them. If they have leaked and the area around them is an awful greasy mess, you have the half axle change to look forward to.

If the car had been in a rainy climate, examine the strut mounts to see if the frame is rusting around the mount. To see the one's in back, you have to take out the back seat back - a good opportunity to clean out the trash there.

Watch for water leaks around the tail lights. Check that the spare tire compartment isn't getting water in it.

If the tires were put on by a tire shop, make sure you can loosen the lug nuts if you ever need to change a tire on the road. They might be on too tight. Get a cross shape lug nut wrench for your trunk to replace the OEM lug nut wrench.

If you change the timing belt the orthodox way, you will loosen the valve cover. At that time, you can check the valve clearances. Read about how to reseal the valve cover. The rubber gasket can be reused if it is not brittle, but selant is also require at the bases of the arches in the gasket. Check the seals around the spark plug tubes. (You can get a kit that includes a replacemen gasket and plug tube seals.) It doesn't hurt to put sealant around the 3 washers that hold the valve cover on, expecially if they have places chipped out of them.

Contemplate how you will change the starter if you ever must do that. Read about how to repair the starter by replacing the contacts in the magnetic switch.

Do a compression test and a leakdown test so will have refererence values to use in diagnosing any future problems with the engine.