Help with buying GTi-16V 4A-GE

[codeNO]

http://www.polovniautomobili.com/ogl...a_corolla_gti/

I want to buy this secondhand GTI, but I need to know what to be prepared to see on this model and motor. Is it hard to find parts? spaners, dihts, belts, what is air filter code number, spark plugs DENSO code number code, etc... I hope anybody who have this car will help me about maintenance..If I buy this car this will ne dream come true

cost arround 1650$

THX!!

[MzKzM]

Are you sure it is a genuine GTi?

In the Europe there would be a GTi sticker on the front grille as well as on the front doors.
Futhermore, it is missing the front lip wich in Europe is only found on the GTi liftback and the 2 chrome tail pipes on the exhaust.
Also, the combination of LPG (that gastank in the back) and the 4A-GE engine isn't very common.

On the other hand, the door trim panels, seats, steering wheel and dashboard says it is a GTi.

Do you have a chassis number or model code? Then I can easilly check it for you.

Whatever the verdict, it looks very neat from the pictures.


Common problems with this car are mainly rust in the rear wheel arches, rear seatbelt lower anchor point behind the rear bumper.
Also check for intact door seals (don't forget the back!) as without there is more rust te be expected.

Service parts are easily available at the dealership and most aftermarket suppliers.

Good luck with your search!

[codeNO]

Thx for quick reply

Yes I notice to all outdoor makeup is missing especially front lip, which stand up for car beautufull, but after 22year old car what to expect, gti stick probably someone tear off, exhaust is likely 5th in a row..

LPG is very commom here and europe, price is less than 1 dollar/lit. and consumption is a 20% more than gasolin... 1lit gasolin is almost 2$ nowdays

Never mind, I wanted same more info before I go to see the car but I will take him munber of a chasis and engine when I went

"...Common problems with this car are mainly rust in the rear wheel arches, rear seatbelt lower anchor point behind the rear bumper..."

Ufff....I could see that only if I peel the car to the end..and because there is a inner plastic cover in trunk.

Ok good to know

What about some parts that are common to change...air filter, oil filter (is it the same for all corollas?), belts, spark plugs...can You give me original numbers parts so I could search here in stores to see is it hard to find it for maintenance, or if it is hard to find parts...nothing more than give up of this gti

[Donald]

You should be able to lift out the bottom part of the rear seat by pulling a little tab at the front of the seat. That will give you good access to see if there is rust at the seat belt anchor points.
Also, lift up the spare tire and look for rust under it.

[MzKzM]

The engine service stuff (spark plugs, filters, fluids, ect) is basicaly the same as the other 4A-GE engines found in the corolla's, celica's and MR2's so they should be easilly obtainable.

I know the LPG conversions, it is quite popular over here (Holland) as well. It's just the first 4A-GE engie that I've seen with such a conversion. (I've only seen them on the 4A-FE corolla's)

You can's see the seatbelt anchor point by lowering the reas seats as there is a plastic trim in front of it. You can however feel the rear wheelarch and wheeltub. there is a triangular reinforcement that is the outer part of the anchor point. Poke around this point with a screwdriver to see if there are any hidden holes wich means you have a rusted wheel tub and some more work to do)

Another common problem I just thought of are the rear (hand)brakes. These have the tendency to stick due to a dirty/faulty caliper (usually the handbrake mechanism) and/or handbrake cables.

The chassis is basicaly an American GT-S wich share the same handbrake problems. Overhaul kits for the brakes can be bought at the toyota dealership but you need a special tool for it as well (approx. €20,- for the tool iirc)

Like said before, rust is your greatest enemy on these cars.

[Donald]

Originally Posted by MzKzM

You can's see the seatbelt anchor point by lowering the reas seats as there is a plastic trim in front of it.

Not lower the seat back.
Lift up the seat bottom to see the lower seat belt anchor points and the body pan under the seat.

[MzKzM]

Ow ok, well I actually ment the bolt that holds the rear seatbelt in place on the wheel tub.

for all clearity, these ones:

[Donald]

Aaah. Yours looks different to my Coupe. I am apparently totally wrong.
Sorry.
This is what mine looks like.

[codeNO]

Thx guys!!

MzKzM, sorry by default I didnt look at country origin... A month ago I found one gti with sterngarage stick on back bumber

Ok If that is all bad things that can be find on this car...thats very good,

what about engine, how to see is it on the ege to be death, leaking oil is for all engines normal..but what is limit and what can cause it..on what to be aware ????

Is it true that steer shaft is bad for this model and if it has servo its more expensive to replace when is broken??

Is it better to find model without servo??

And how to upload img like you guys??????????????@#!

[MzKzM]

Well the engine's health can usually be determined with a compression test and a leak down test as well as a visual check on the spark plugs. (Do't know how familiar you are with cars but you might want to take it to a independent garage for these tests)
If the engine uses under 1 litre of oil over 1000km (via the engine itself) it is considered acceptable for a car that age at most of our toyota dealers.

Leaking of oil is usually caused by worn distributor and crankshaft seals wich themself are easy to replace but you need to remove a lot of stuff from the engine before getting to the actual parts.

Alwasy check for things like coolant in oil wich can indicates a bas headgasket of even a cracked head
You can check this by pulling the oil dip-stick and holding a lighter under it. if it starts to maka c acrackling sound there is coolant mixed up with oil. Another way is just by checking the underside of the oil fill cover for foamy sludge.

I don't know about power steering as I've only had it for a short time in my liftback but it's the same rack as the coupé, hatchback and sedan's (models with servo of course)
The steering rack itself is indeed more expensive than an non-power steering one.

I place my pictures via photobucket, there I store my pics and use the IMG tag to place them here.

[Donald]

The other thing you want to check for on the engine is noise.
You want to hear the engine started cold, and listen for a knocking noise in the lower part of the engine. This noise will sometimes go away when the engine warms up. That noise is "piston slap", indicating that the lower part of the cylinders or pistons are worn. These engines can run with that knock for many miles (km) but the louder it gets, and the longer it takes to go away, indicates how badly it is worn. A slight knock that goes away when the oil pressure builds up, is normal.

I just disassembled a 4A-F engine (Corolla SR-5 Coupe) which had a very loud knock, and found one piston was actually broken, and the other three were cracked.

The power steering rack for the GT-S Coupe (US model, 4A-GE engine) costs more than the one for the SR-5 Coupe and the Sedan (both with 4A-FE engines). The GT-S has variable power assist which the other's do not. I am not sure if it is the same over there.
I just priced racks, as I needed to replace the one in the SR-5 that I am rebuilding, and the Sedan rack cost $255, the SR-5 rack was $289 and the GT-S rack was $325.
On my 1987 Corolla FX-16, the manual steering rack (non servo) costs more than the powered rack (servo), and I believe it is the same manual rack for the other Corollas

I have relpaced Corolla steering racks before, but each time it was on a high milage (km) car, so I don't think they go bad very quickly.
Now on my 1990 V6 Camry, I changed 3 racks in 10 years.